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Vostok questions


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Ok so I'm trying to get another Vostok going with the graveyard of parts I've acquired. Now if you look the train wheels looking correct, mesh correctly, and the pivots are fine.

 

The problem seems to be when I try and put the train bridge on it doesn't seem like the pivots line up into the jewel holes resulting in the train bridge not being able to screw down completely. Also the centre wheel is loose (perhaps it's the wrong wheel? But it's from the same kind of movement. Also of note the pivots look fine so I know it's not that)

 

The balance freely floats and is in great shape actually. It winds up just fine and it seems like the keyless works are all right. Pictures are included please let me know if you see anything that I don't thanks.c571b4b644174aba592fbeca599e8945.jpgb34399a78239ffa87c69ebf3bdf8586f.jpg56537e8e4afb589c273661dd041d0aaa.jpg5416b801f5df0ba3fd21ee4a27a7835c.jpg1842164420c889875ef48c17fcb54e2a.jpg

 

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The train wheels look fine to me, but that doesn't mean I can say for sure they are. It's hard to say by just looking at the pictures. The problem could be the train wheel bridge itself. If you are sure the wheel pivots are correctly aligned in the pivot holes in the main plate and the wheels are spinning freely, then I'd suspect the train wheel bridge. Those pivot holes are microscopic, so make sure none of them is blocked and make sure all jewels look OK. If you have a stereomicroscope use it. Also, make sure none of the wheel arbors are bent. It could also be that there is something wrong with the bridge itself. To test this, remove all wheels and then mount the bridge on the main plate. Does it align perfectly with the main plate?

Other than that all I can say it can be a bit fiddly to get the bridge in place. Usually, I will have to manipulate the wheels under the bridge with fine tweezers to get the pivots into the bridge jewel bearings. My 20X/40X stereomicroscope is a blessing in these situations.

Don't quite understand what you mean by "the centre wheel is loose". It looks like the dial is mounted, and so I would assume the keyless and motion works is in place. In that case, can you set the time? Does it feel right? If yes, I'd say you have nothing to worry about.

Yes, the balance spring looks somewhat battered. It looks ugly, but I've had springs looking like that and still running fine. I'd say worry about that later if needed.

Please keep us posted on your progress, and here are a couple of pictures from my last Vostok calibre 2414 strip down. Note, these are macro images, so remember to click the images and then click again to get the full resolution.

Good luck!

41860057400_07b419c9fe_o.jpg

42951605464_0d40f78948_o.jpg

Edited by VWatchie
Some additional info about the pictures
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On 7/21/2018 at 3:59 PM, bsoderling said:

Hi,

Not sure if it’s the photos but to me it looks like your HS is heavily off-centered.


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There definitely seems to be a hair spring issue but this will have no impact what so ever on the refitting of the train bridge.

Your photos imply that you have installed the barrel bridge, pallet bridge, and balance cock before attempting to install the train bridge. Or that you've removed the train bridge without removing anything else and are now trying to reassemble. This I believe will only make life difficult because the pallet fork will seriously restrict the movement of the escape wheel, and as all the wheels are meshed together, all of the other train wheels as well, thus considerably reducing your ability to jiggle pivots into place.

I always follow a specific assembly order (which may or may not be an accepted standard practise) which seems to make relocating pivots as painless as possible. If the movement has a separate escape wheel cock then I start with that, otherwise I start with the train bridge. With nothing else on the main plate there is plenty of room to fiddle everything into place and all of the wheels are clear of obstructions that could limit movement. Once I'm happy with the freedom and function of the train I then I install the barrel bridge. At this point it is possible to properly test the transmission of power all the way from the main spring to the escape wheel, and once this has been proved satisfactory I then install the pallets and the balance. It is sometimes necessary to install the barrel and train bridges together but the pallet and balance should always go in last otherwise it is impossible to test the freedom of the train.

Hope this helps.

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Very observant Marc and excellent advice! I follow the same assemby order and it just didn’t occur to me that having mounted the escapement would hinder or make it a lot harder to mount the train wheels bridge.

Edited by VWatchie
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Yes indeed it was because the pallet fork was still in place. The centre wheel of this particular movement was a mangled mess so I replaced it with one that I had then went back to assemble the train bridge... Which as you noted was next to impossible because of that darn pallet fork. I wasn't even thinking about it until it popped into my head... Hey, genius the pallet fork needs to come off before the train and it's bridge will ever think of going on. That little pallet fork caused me quite some grief... I only needed to see back for a minute. You know it was on the bench for a few days before I realized and came back to it... Lol moral of the story... When you find yourself getting frustrated set it down and come back to it.... The answer will be so obvious

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