Omega 2179 cal. 30T2SC cleaning, center seconds wheel, mainspring, crystal

[Jfree]

Hello,

This is my first post!!! Before I go any further on this movement I need some expert advice.  It seems as though I am in the right place. 

Was wondering what to do with this dial in order to clean it up.  The yellowing around the edges seems to be a bit gummy and I am afraid I will remove the nice seconds track if I clean it incorrectly.  Any thoughts.  Can the dial go in the ultrasonic bath with L and R #111 ultrasonic cleaner and rinse solution? 

Also, I plan to remove the center seconds wheel with the bergeon #3 presto wheel remover for odd numbered spoked gears.  What would be an acceptable way to re install this friction fit wheel? gently with a hand setting tool or is a jeweling/staking set (which I don't have yet) the way.  I have seen and read about both? 

I would like to remove the mainspring and oil it and reinstall.  Will this be an "unbreakable" type with the "S" shape? If it is not recommended to rewind mainspring by hand, what would be a recommended mainspring winder that won't break the bank?  Can I purchase a new mainspring for this?

Thank you, 

JFree

[Jfree]

Forgot about the crystal.  It is pretty well shattered and thought it would be nice to replace.  Would you agree? I am not sure what type of crystal this is.  Can someone help identify and installation method/tool to use? This was my wife's grandfather's watch he got when he got out of the military in 1945 I believe. 

Thanks,

Jeffrey

[StuartBaker104]

Let’s start with (and I’m sure you’ll get the same advice from many others): Don’t touch that dial!!!! Anything you do will probably make it worse. Don’t get any fingerprints on it, handle ontly by the edges (preferably with finger cots), and keep it somewhere safe until you come to refit it. The chances of making it worse are generally much greater than making it better since the lacquer will be fragile and may well take off the markings if any comes off. In reality, you may be able to do some gentle cleaning, but until you’ve learnt some lessons by trashing some less precious dials then keep clear!

You should be able to refit the seconds drive wheel with a hand fitting tool. Just make sure you note which way up it goes!

Given the age of the watch and unknown service history, a new mainspring would be high on my list. You probably need a GR4254 - Cousinsuk and Jules Borel are good places to find parts lists... https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/omega-movement-parts

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=OME_30T2SC

Just beware here when looking for parts that there are several variants. You have a plain balance (so not the PC) and standard regulator (so not the RG). The ultimate confirmation is to measure the barrel i/d and compare with the variants from the GR catalogue https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/mainsprings

A new mainspring comes ready wound and lubrictaed and you can push it straight into the barrel with an appropriate home made tool. Make sure you note which way in it goes! Practice rewinding old mainsprings by hand on some other watch!

If you want to get an original Omega crystal, that would be a PN1021 https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/omega-case-parts. You can fit and remove these with a claw type crystal lift.

 

 

[Jfree]

Thanks Stuart for the links to Borel and Cousins.  It has been helpful to see what parts are still available for this caliber.  

On 7/19/2018 at 1:50 AM, StuartBaker104 said:

A new mainspring comes ready wound and lubrictaed and you can push it straight into the barrel with an appropriate home made tool.

What is the homemade tool you refer to? I have rewound some hairsprings on the 6497 clones I have been working on but  some sources report that it is not good for the mainspring to be wound this way, especially an old one.  

Thanks,

Jeffrey

[StuartBaker104]

On 7/23/2018 at 12:57 AM, Jfree said:

What is the homemade tool you refer to?

Just a small piece of round bar with a flat end that can be used to push a new mainspring out of its retaining washer into the barrel. Could be plastic or metal.

[rodabod]

I agree with Stuart that the dial should be left as-is. The lacquer has yellowed at the edge, and removing this may lift the print. It’s actually in quite good condition. 

Push out the crystal and see if it contains a tension ring to help determine type. 

You can use a biro or similar pen with the cartridge removed as a pusher for the driving wheel. 

[Jfree]

Thank you for your response. I have read that it is recommended to install the sweep seconds wheel with a jewel press. Can I do damage to the third wheel dial side pivot jewel by by pressing this on by hand?

[anilv]

Hi Jfree,

The reason a jewel press is recomended is because it ensure the wheel is pressed down 'flat'. If you use any other tool 'freehand' the pressure may not be even and this may result in a broken pivot.. at least the part that sticks proud of the train bridge.

Good luck

Anilv

 

 

[Jfree]

Thank you for the response. This makes sense to me. I am new to watch repair. That is probably obvious. Should I be concerned at all with damaging jewels when pressing sweep seconds wheel on? Or when pressing on hands to the cannon pinion. Worried about applying too much pressure and damaging something. Do I need to install the bridge over the seconds pinion before the seconds hand can be pressed on to the seconds pinion. Again worried about breaking the jewel on that little bridge. Can the arbors of wheels,etc damage jewels when wheels, cannon pinion or hands are installed. Am I just missing something. Trying to get schooled properly before tearing down this watch. I’m practicing a lot on Chinese clones before even considering this omega or the Rolex cal 710 I have that is very similar to the 2179. Thanks 

[Jfree]

After poking around watch tool websites for movement holders I see holders that have  pins inside to support the wheel pivots, preventing the jewels from damage while pressing on the hands or Press-on wheels.