Jump to content

Custom crystal retainer die for Rolex/Tudor divers


Recommended Posts

One other part I made on the "new" lathe is a proper strong and deep enough die to deal with tall crystals such as on the 1680 and VERY tall one of the 1655 (Sea-Dweller). Most foul on the crystal.

My old solution was a 30mm 12-point socket. it works, but it does not press the retainer flat and square relative to the case top surface, so I have to go back and "peck" it down with another tool all around the crystal...

Here it is: (The blue Tudor will be it's first victim)

 

002.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice. I have made stumps etc for my staking tools but I use brass which I find less likely to damage/scratch parts. So many more options are possible when you have access to a lathe. Wish I had room for larger lathe but!!!!!!! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This was going to be scrapped. They did scrap a second one, so I collected all the useful parts I could before it left. 

Then I spent a few hours cleaning it up. I had sprayed it down with oil prior but it was all browned up again. 

The compound was a project in itself. I had to figure out how to disassemble without breaking/loosing any parts. Hardingebuses cam bolts to tighten the locks for the compound angle. Those don’t come out easy after 50-odd years of neglect. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

I made another one, a better one, for the 16610 case and it works fantastic! The bottom edge is at the exact angle of the retainer, and the inside step keeps it perfectly centered. Again tall enough to not foul on any crystal.

I have it drawn and can have more made if anyone needs one. Also made from 6061, they will be $165 each if anyone is interested. I'll eat the tooling/set-up cost but I need at least five committed before I give the go-ahead to make them. (photos are of my hand-made prototype) 

I will also refine and have a similar situation for the four-digit cases (refine what I made originally). I figure pricing will be similar, but no drawing yet to confirm pricing with the machine shop. Just PM me if you are interested.

IMG_9712.JPG

IMG_9713.JPG

Edited by Tudor
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love to see folks make their own tools. That's the great thing about having access to a mill and lathe. If the tool you want doesn't exist, you make it.

I usually draw the thing in SolidWorks first, then print out dimensioned drawings, and then go to the shop and make the thing.

Great job on that!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I note with some amusement that I responded to this topic well over a year ago. At the time I was just impressed to see someone having made a nice tool. Now I find myself in need of this exact tool (a die to press the gasket retaining ring on a Rolex 116610) and I spent a few hours at my shop making one earlier today.

It's not nearly as nice as the one member-Tudor made - it's just a ring that can be used underneath the die in a crystal press. But it's a start.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Snap! I recently finished my Gruen 510 movement - though the case for mine is in a rather sad state; I'm going to try re-plating it (in nickel, it's not a gold one).   Re. the screws, I got a few of the one gram mixed batches from ebay. I've only needed a couple of screws for things so far, both rare, minuscule types - but both in the mix, after enough time sorting through them! The ones such as normal bridge screws are quite common in those lots.  
    • Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
×
×
  • Create New...