I am about to work on a vintage citizen watch.
I removed the movement from the case but I am stuck on removing the automatic rotor..
It seems that my screwdrivers won't do the job..
Any advice would be helpful thank you.
Hello I had a chance to acquire to two watch movement+dial sets which are from JLC and AP
However, I am having trouble finding cases to fit these.
Could anyone help me find cases that would fit these movements?
Non genuine cases are OK.
I have an old Waltham pocket watch movement which is missing the impulse pin (roller jewel). I have a limited number of actual jewels and since this is just a practice movement I thought I'd try to make one out of brass. I've seen this several times in old pieces--usually a very sloppy job. So I got some brass stock of the same diameter as the "D" in the roller table, filed it and burnished it to a high gloss. Then I took a small, very fine diamond file and filed it half flat to form the "D" I then polished the face using progressively finer sandpaper on a steel block. This works fine--so far! Problem is separation of the piece from the stock. Again I used a small cutting file to do this but it doesn't leave the end very pretty. So what I've done so far is to fit the good end into the roller table. I then plan to shellac it in place and see if I can very carefully adjust the length and clean up the end. Has anyone done this before? Any suggestions as to how best to do it?
This is my first watch repair project beyond battery replacement and bracelet adjustment. After buying 2 non running Ingersol Triumph pin pallet lever pocket watches I now realise that they are not the best to start with, however now that I have them in bits I'm going to continue. One watch was really a basket case, the other ran for a few seconds then stopped, I have stripped both, cleaned the good bits and reassembled one watch (several times) I have got it to wind and to run but when I try to adjust the hands the crown is jammed solid. To recap, the crown will wind the watch but not change the hands. This watch doesn't have a conventional cannon pinion, it has a rather flat pinion (see photo). Please excuse my terminology, everything seems to be a pinion.
So this little pinion (gear wheel) fits on the shaft (pinion?) of the centre wheel, I suspect that it is too tight, as I understand with a conventional cannon pinion there should be some friction to drive the hand but also enough slippage to allow adjustment of the time. I'm not sure with this watch what sort of fit the pinion should be, and I would like to ask for advise before I remove any material and make it too loose.
Best regards, Alan
This is from the second wash of the Sekonda. You could make soup out of it.
The rest of the images are dial and date ring pictures just for the record. I may attempt to convert them in to clear backed water slide transfers to fix the dial and date ring if I get the time. The graph paper has 5mm squares.
Hello all, my name is William Davis. I’m from Nashville TN USA and although I’ve been in the watch and jewelry business for over 20 years, I’ve only last year started learning how to service mechanical watches. I’ve just had my first class in Rolex 3135 and with Mark’s help have had a good “leg up”! Thanks to Mark and to all of you other watchmakers out there.