I have a seiko 7548-700f that I bought at a flea market for 15 dollars. Very beat up. Heavy scratches on the back near the lugs. Looks like the previous owner didn't know how to take a case back off properly. Last year during a battery change the screwdriver slipped and i hit the coil block. I managed to replace it without trouble. Starting a couple of months ago it started losing time. LOTS of time. I would take it off overnight and in the morning it would be 5 hours behind the correct time. Happens no matter what position the watch is in. I suspect that this is because the hole for the center wheel is not circular anymore. I know this means I need a service but I can not afford one. I am in highschool with no job. I have posted similar threads to this on several different sites, but no one is helpful. They tell me to get a job or to just pay to service it. What should I do? Should I learn to service it myself or is it even worth it?
I have a watch that I am fixing up for myself. After lots of research l, I concluded my watch is a 1960s Hamilton Stormking VII. As my watch needs a new crystal I ordered one from ebay that is for a Hamilton stormking VII. When I got it in I immediately realized that it doesn't fit. The replacement seems to me about 1mm larger than the original. (I dont have a caliper). Is this even a Hamilton Stormking VII? Or did I get the right crystal but I have to modify it before it fits?
I recently bought a lot of pocket watches on Ebay.
Between them I found an Alpina pocket watch with movement UH 1116. I saw on internet that usually is referred as Alpina 1116.
I got the following situation, while removing the wheels bridges, one of the ruby remained on the wheel.
Please take a look on the following pictures.
I also took some pictures with a microscope in order to explain better the situation.
Could you please suggest me what I should do?
Is what I got complete? Looking to another ruby it seems there is something missing (holding piece?)
Is the movement common? Do You believe I can find the bridge somewhere?
BTW I have also found a broken spring
Many thanks in advance for your suggestions
I have a lovely antique cylinder escapement pocket watch that I've serviced and got running beautifully but now I have a problem with the minute hand falling off. I think it's known as a pin hole fitting hand. On measuring the hand it shows approx. 0.40mm, and then on measuring the arbor diameter with the vernier guage, it's also 0.40mm so it's very near but won't even grip when mounted. Photos provided of the job.
Does anybody have a technique I can use to get the hand to fit?
I don't think there is any hard and fast rule. I take off the balance with full power in the mainspring sometimes. Like when you put the watch on the timegrapher and something doesn't look right. My only rule is never take the pallet fork out when there is power. But.... Is there anyone out there that hasn't done that accidentally?
On older pocket watches with cylinder escapements, there is no pallet fork. In these type of movements, taking off the balance before power down will result in the gear train running at full speed. Don't ask me how I know that.
On automatic watches that the winding stem does not engage the ratchet wheel, the way to power down the mainspring is to use a large screwdriver to engage the the barrel screw then release the click spring. Then slowly allow the screwdriver to release power from the mainspring.
I wish there was a proper tool to do this, like a special screwdriver with a friction controlled release button. Does anyone know of a tool like that?
Thank you, fatality rate dropped considerably in the wake of lockdown and its picking up speed again, new preventive measures were put into effect as of yesterday.
A bit of good news anounced on TV last night, researchers in Tehran have had success producing Vaccine, said to start testing it on human and expectedly be ready to present to WHO in three months.
And that we expect better news from research institutes out of four other countries before long. AmGen said to have made substantial progress, Expected of the Giant.
Thanks for the helpful answer.
What about non-handwinding automatic movements?
Even if I'm able to find the click, I'm worried about releasing it without being able to control the power release by holding the crown.
Is there a method for doing this on these type of automatics?
Similarly, when it comes time to reassemble and place the balance on the movement, what is the preferred wind the mainspring in a small, incremental way when there is no keyless mechanism?