Jump to content

6498 enamel Roman dial


Recommended Posts

I have been searching for an enamel dial for a 6498 with Roman numerals for a while now. I've found old arnez and eaglestar dials but they usually have goofy logos or paintings on them. I did find a German guy on the bay selling them but they're all Arabic numbers and I'll regret it if I use that I know it. I've looked at steinhart, laco, stowa, and even tissel, but I'd much rather make my own, it's a pride thing I guess lol. I feel like it's a popular style, someone somewhere has to have them. Does anyone have any information about a lead that I can follow?

 

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So I looked around at the vintage ones and found this nice arnex dial with just a simple logo, it's enamel paint, but I think my project turned out very nice, plus the name on the movement matches the dial lol. Anyways if your skimming through threads and read this, lemme know what you think. I actually did find a beautiful dial exactly like I wanted from some awesome people at tourby, so I'm waiting on that for a little nicer project watch down the road.eeb1cd5e7a3aded423cf7da4761c3c74.jpg

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love them as well, as a bigger guy I like the 42-45mm watch size and it's just so much fun to build these. This case was from offrei. I've also used several sterile parnis cases all are very nice. This one is 45mm but is thinner than most at 10.5. I loved the lugs really, that's why I bought it. It wears really well in my opinion.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought this Parnis from a China dealer and will swap out the cheap movement from one of my Arnexes. I fell in love with the dial and the whole thing was as cheap as buying the separate parts to make one. Steve

 

 

c7fd4b3203f4c77ae360c5aa9ddce7fd.png&key=a9ac817d832713d62b0103d2bd7f7a147c6ed5981bc66838ef5966d42802ed9e

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is pretty neat. Never seen that model before. I've done the same. This one I got the whole watch for the price of a case so I used the movement on another project and just used the case. Also changed that strap out with a Barton black leather and white stitching. That blue anti glare kinda sucks I think I'll remove that eventually. The second one is a sterile parnis case also, with a nice luninous dial and hands, I was kinda going for trench watch look. 5044e80ab86106056a4f4a3ae5268aad.jpgf079b8535c58aa4cf1c6b84d84fdc06d.jpgfa60e5f921f0955d19635828bc5cc50a.jpg1d313dce6fbe5a59410cfe30483f53c8.jpg

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure you have the case screws for the ut6498 if you plan on swapping. The st36 screws do not fit. And you'll have to make the hole in the tabs larger to fit those screws, unless you order some larger tabs. This was annoying when I had to stop my project just for a couple screws, so I figured I'd share lol.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...