Jump to content

Proper technique for removing crown from stem?

Giannifive
 Share

Recommended Posts

Giannifive New Member

Giannifive

Posted
Posted

I'm assembling my first watch from components, and I have what is probably a basic question: What is the proper technique for removing the crown from the stem?  I'm trying to get the service crown off the stem of a new movement.  I'm using a pin vise to hold the stem, but it just spins as I try to unscrew the crown.  I'm not clamping with a lot of force, out of fear of destroying the stem.   Is there some trick to this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted

The crown of the service stem is not really supposed to be removed, as it's made of grippy plastic and could be even glued.

Another stem should be provided with the mov.t, or bought separately. 

If you want to reuse the service stem see if you can just cut it to length, otherwise heat the stem a little and grab it with ridged pliers near to the crwon.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Hold the stem with your pin vise where the arrow is pointing and tighten right up. Then unscrew the button. New movements come with the plastic buttons so they can be tested winding up the normal way before they are sent out to the customer. There is no reason why you cannot use the stem. It is a waste of money buying another. 

Watch Stem.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites
vinn3 Distinguished Member

vinn3

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, jdm said:

The crown of the service stem is not really supposed to be removed, as it's made of grippy plastic and could be even glued.

Another stem should be provided with the mov.t, or bought separately. 

If you want to reuse the service stem see if you can just cut it to length, otherwise heat the stem a little and grab it with ridged pliers near to the crwon.

    yes,  "ridged pliers" for stem flats.  the parallel   jaws of the pliers grip the flats of the stem,  or a pinvise for round area of the stem.  best to buy a new stem.  vin

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rodabod Distinguished Member

rodabod

Posted
Posted

What Oldhippy suggested is the traditional method. Hold the pin vise in a bench vice if you need to tighten it more. You can grip the flats of the stem, but it’s a weak point, so that can potentially snap there. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Giannifive New Member

Giannifive

Posted
  • Author
Posted
19 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Hold the stem with your pin vise where the arrow is pointing and tighten right up. Then unscrew the button. New movements come with the plastic buttons so they can be tested winding up the normal way before they are sent out to the customer. There is no reason why you cannot use the stem. It is a waste of money buying another. 

Watch Stem.jpg

Thanks for the detailed response!  Once I realized where exactly to clamp and that I should "tighten right up" I was able to get the service crown off easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • ManSkirtBrew
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Waggy
      Rado rotor removal

      By Waggy · Posted

      Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • doober
      Rado rotor removal

      By doober · Posted

      Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Waggy
      Rado rotor removal

      By Waggy · Posted

      Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...