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First clock repair...How do I open it?

ftwizard

By ftwizard
in All Things Clocks

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oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

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You now need to remove it from the case. That inside ring should just pull our, unscrew the feet and the top and push from the front. Once removed can you show me a photo around the spring to include the click, as some of these types do not have a normal click spring and click.

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oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

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That is just what I expected to see. You cannot un-wind the springs in these movements. If you try and lift that circle shape which is the click, you will distort it and it will not wind up. Can you un pin the balance and take it out and show me please. It looks like the h/spring is damaged, if that is it is you might be able to repair in, oil the movement and see how it goes.

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ftwizard WRT Addict

ftwizard

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18 minutes ago, Lenj said:

Hi you need to take the hand off first to get the face off, have you got a hand puller??

I use levers, but I wasn't sure if that one just pulled off.

The face seems to be fixed to the backplate, somewhere near the twelve o'clock area.

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ftwizard WRT Addict

ftwizard

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54 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Don't remove that hand. That is the alarm hand, it is fixed to the alarm wheel behind the dial. The movement should come away by ether pins or screws or both. Depending on your skills that h/spring can be sorted.

Thanks. That's what I thought about the alarm hand. I just can't see how the face is fitted to the backplate. I can't see any screws or pins. 

The dial is free all the way round, except for a point in the twelve o'clock position, midway between the centre and the edge of the face. Could it just be double sided tape or something? although, it doesn't feel like it.

I can sort the spring out, no problem. I've found a picture of how it should look.

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ftwizard WRT Addict

ftwizard

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1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

Yes it would.

Do you think I can separate the two parts without stripping the top half first?

If I run the springs down, how would I go about removing them and re-installing after cleaning?

Edited by ftwizard
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oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

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I do not recommend this. You could undo the plates by a little and remove the pallets. Make sure to add oil to all parts that will run. Be very careful not to bend any pivots (its soft metal) the train will run down, you can put a finger on the train to ease the run down. When it is down you can take it apart and clean. You should be able to remove both springs from there arbors. Take note of how and where the springs are attached, they should be open loop and attached to the pillars. When putting it back together make sure, the springs are attached to their arbors. So the movement is together and tightened down, wind the springs up and as you go you should be able to attach the open part of the spring over their proper pillars.

 

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oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

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Pick a spot where to start, the higest part,

Take note of how and where the springs are attached, they should be open loop and attached to the pillars. When putting it back together make sure, the springs are attached to their arbors. So the movement is together and tightened down, wind the springs up and as you go you should be able to attach the open part of the spring over their proper pillars.

You will just have move the parts into their holes. You can screw down the nuts a little by little, to hold things in place, not to tight or you could damage pivots.

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ftwizard

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Thanks for everyone's help, especially oldhippy. I managed to get it all back together again. Manipulated the balance spring back into some kind of spring shape, and it's running very nice now.

Most important, I learnt a lot for the next one.

Edited by ftwizard
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    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Zedster
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      By Zedster · Posted

      Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀       
    • nevenbekriev
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      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • ManSkirtBrew
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
    • oldhippy
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By oldhippy · Posted

      Before putting it back in the case I would fit the hands and use a pin vice on the stem to make sure the hands were in line. 
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