Jump to content

First clock repair...How do I open it?

ftwizard

By ftwizard
in All Things Clocks

 Share

Recommended Posts

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

You now need to remove it from the case. That inside ring should just pull our, unscrew the feet and the top and push from the front. Once removed can you show me a photo around the spring to include the click, as some of these types do not have a normal click spring and click.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

That is just what I expected to see. You cannot un-wind the springs in these movements. If you try and lift that circle shape which is the click, you will distort it and it will not wind up. Can you un pin the balance and take it out and show me please. It looks like the h/spring is damaged, if that is it is you might be able to repair in, oil the movement and see how it goes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ftwizard WRT Addict

ftwizard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
18 minutes ago, Lenj said:

Hi you need to take the hand off first to get the face off, have you got a hand puller??

I use levers, but I wasn't sure if that one just pulled off.

The face seems to be fixed to the backplate, somewhere near the twelve o'clock area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ftwizard WRT Addict

ftwizard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
54 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Don't remove that hand. That is the alarm hand, it is fixed to the alarm wheel behind the dial. The movement should come away by ether pins or screws or both. Depending on your skills that h/spring can be sorted.

Thanks. That's what I thought about the alarm hand. I just can't see how the face is fitted to the backplate. I can't see any screws or pins. 

The dial is free all the way round, except for a point in the twelve o'clock position, midway between the centre and the edge of the face. Could it just be double sided tape or something? although, it doesn't feel like it.

I can sort the spring out, no problem. I've found a picture of how it should look.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ftwizard WRT Addict

ftwizard

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

Yes it would.

Do you think I can separate the two parts without stripping the top half first?

If I run the springs down, how would I go about removing them and re-installing after cleaning?

Edited by ftwizard
Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

 

I do not recommend this. You could undo the plates by a little and remove the pallets. Make sure to add oil to all parts that will run. Be very careful not to bend any pivots (its soft metal) the train will run down, you can put a finger on the train to ease the run down. When it is down you can take it apart and clean. You should be able to remove both springs from there arbors. Take note of how and where the springs are attached, they should be open loop and attached to the pillars. When putting it back together make sure, the springs are attached to their arbors. So the movement is together and tightened down, wind the springs up and as you go you should be able to attach the open part of the spring over their proper pillars.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Pick a spot where to start, the higest part,

Take note of how and where the springs are attached, they should be open loop and attached to the pillars. When putting it back together make sure, the springs are attached to their arbors. So the movement is together and tightened down, wind the springs up and as you go you should be able to attach the open part of the spring over their proper pillars.

You will just have move the parts into their holes. You can screw down the nuts a little by little, to hold things in place, not to tight or you could damage pivots.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
ftwizard WRT Addict

ftwizard

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks for everyone's help, especially oldhippy. I managed to get it all back together again. Manipulated the balance spring back into some kind of spring shape, and it's running very nice now.

Most important, I learnt a lot for the next one.

Edited by ftwizard
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • AlanB
      Quarter repeater mainspring thickness

      By AlanB · Posted

      In repairing a generic Swiss cylinder quarter repeater pocket watch with no repeat mainspring I'm trying to work out how to determine the size of a suitable spring.  Barrel ID 7.6mm, Arbor 2.77mm height around 1.45mm. Clearly only one turn is used plus setup, but the only actual figure I can find in Saunier who says in the previous half century 3.5 turns was considered good (and Saunier is about 1880).  Calculating off that would suggest about a 0.15mm thick spring 128mm long. That feels intuitively a little thick, but I don't have another repeater conveniently to hand to check so any pointers welcome.  Photo shows the repeat train assembled without the bridge since that hides everything.   Alan  
    • nickelsilver
      Pocket watch escape wh

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      To identify movements the standard practice is the actual diameter of the movement, and a front on image of both the movement side and the dial side- minus the dial. The setting mechanism (under the dial) is considered the "fingerprint" of the movement and 9/10 leads to full identification.
    • Bonefixer
      Pocket watch escape wh

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      What of? The wheel itself (standard lever escapement) or the plate with no numbers on it? Does that help, from the ebay listing?
    • Kkramme
      Blew it with a coil

      By Kkramme · Posted

      Thanks. I did make a self introduction— perhaps in the wrong place? 🤔😢In any I am an Australian 🇦🇺 American living in the beautiful Gold Coast, Queensland Australia. I love Grand Seiko and Seiko watches, and recently came back from the Grand Seiko Shizukuishi Studio in northern Japan where I was blown away by the design artistry and technical excellence. More later on that (including photos, if interested!)
    • rossjackson01
      Pocket watch escape wh

      By rossjackson01 · Posted

      Bbefixer. I had the same type of problem when I first joined the forum. A pocket watch movement with no markings. Photographs of the the movement, and the members came to the rescue. Within days I had a number of suggestions. Found the details and information of the movement on ranfft. Never managed to get a donor, but at least I know what I need.  The members are really knowledgeable.
×
×
  • Create New...