Thought I'd share some pics of my Oris Big crown with pointer-date (circa 2009?).
Simple classic design and quite in the spirit of the older Oris watches.
The case back gives a good view of the ETA2836 inside. The red rotor was a Oris touch. The edge of the caseback has a coin-edged design, similar to the front of the watch. This improves the look of the caseback as the metal edge would look too big otherwise. Increasing the display window wouldn't work I think as that would only show the movement holding ring.
The line is still pretty decent..
And the bracelet is nice and supple.
But the design of the clasp is a bit plain.
Oris deserves credit as it was one of the brands which was instrumental in bringing back the Swiss watch industry back from brink of the abyss. In the late. 80s and early nineties, their classically designed watches using ETA movements sold well by focussing on the mechanical movements and using it as their USP. Their tag-line at the time was 'high-much', as seen on the rotor in the movement pic above.
This watch came my way as a part exchange for an Omega Constellation. The previous owner had gotten the Swiss watch bug but as he got deeper into the hobby he started to appreciate other brands. To be specific, he was getting into the 'manufacturer' brands as opposed to 'ebauche' brands. It's a shame as this watch is quite good as it is. Ah well, the previous owner should be into Pateks by now!.
Yesterday my Oris watch hit a tiled floor when the strap pin broke and the back crystal popped off. Being in a rush , I quickly pressed it back into position and left it for later investigation.
Today the crystal seems to be fixed in position, but I have no experience of removing or replacing these. Was a simple press of the thumb strong enough to do the job? How can I check, other then testing with my thumb nail. Are these a simple pop on fixing?
Crap sorry, I was thinking the minute recorder was not resetting to "12". May still be a simple matter of resetting the hand, but then the minute jump will be off, which means moving the finger on the chrono runner. What I actually suspect is that the hammer is out of adjustment, and is making full contact with the minute counter but not the chrono runner, and you want the reverse of that. Depending on the version you have it may have an adjustable hammer, or may require filing.
The dial looks good for it's age.
From my experience there is really much that can be done to improve the look of a vintage dial. Often what appears to be dirt is instead oxidation and cannot be removed without changing the appearance of the dial. I would stick to using Rodico and Q-Tips dipped in distilled water. If you do anything, be very careful and work very slow. Keep in mind the printing on the dial is often placed on top of the lacquer and it's the first to go when "cleaning" is attempted.
Thanks. That was going to be my first step. I asked because I was curious if the "resets wrong but advances right" was indicative of something specific that I haven't come across in discussions yet.
Worst case scenario, I line up the second hand and don't think about it much when the minute recorder advances.
I think you can just remove the hand and set it at zero when in reset position. If that doesn't do it there's a laundry list of potential issues, on which books have been written. Try that and if you still have a problem it can be addressed.
Thanks. Not broken, the balance cock spring is identical. Huge ping hazard though. These function very much like the usual Incabloc springs in that you release the legs and then lift the spring out of the housing. Thanks,