Thought I'd share some pics of my Oris Big crown with pointer-date (circa 2009?).
Simple classic design and quite in the spirit of the older Oris watches.
The case back gives a good view of the ETA2836 inside. The red rotor was a Oris touch. The edge of the caseback has a coin-edged design, similar to the front of the watch. This improves the look of the caseback as the metal edge would look too big otherwise. Increasing the display window wouldn't work I think as that would only show the movement holding ring.
The line is still pretty decent..
And the bracelet is nice and supple.
But the design of the clasp is a bit plain.
Oris deserves credit as it was one of the brands which was instrumental in bringing back the Swiss watch industry back from brink of the abyss. In the late. 80s and early nineties, their classically designed watches using ETA movements sold well by focussing on the mechanical movements and using it as their USP. Their tag-line at the time was 'high-much', as seen on the rotor in the movement pic above.
This watch came my way as a part exchange for an Omega Constellation. The previous owner had gotten the Swiss watch bug but as he got deeper into the hobby he started to appreciate other brands. To be specific, he was getting into the 'manufacturer' brands as opposed to 'ebauche' brands. It's a shame as this watch is quite good as it is. Ah well, the previous owner should be into Pateks by now!.
Yesterday my Oris watch hit a tiled floor when the strap pin broke and the back crystal popped off. Being in a rush , I quickly pressed it back into position and left it for later investigation.
Today the crystal seems to be fixed in position, but I have no experience of removing or replacing these. Was a simple press of the thumb strong enough to do the job? How can I check, other then testing with my thumb nail. Are these a simple pop on fixing?
The above are mild abrasives, they do nothing to glass.
There are various polish thread on this forum, use the search function. Anyway:
Place the wet paper on a plastic support disc 5 - 8 cm diameter.
Observe from inner side that you are hitting to the correct spot, orthogonal to the scratch direction. You will see white streaks on the point you're abrading.
Check often and as soon the scratch is gone then move to 600, that's the finest grip that will have some effect. After that you'll need diamond paste.
You can't ruin a crystal unless you drop and chip it. Of course, on a faceted crystal, crisp edges cannot be preserved.
I've got a dremel with the small felt wheels, that should suffice? I will need to pick up some of that diamond paste. Like I said, I've been trying to use the two polished below, finishing with Peak Cream. I think starting at 1000 grit was my biggest problem. Will pick up some rougher grit SP and give it a whirl. Worst case scenario is a ruined crystal i know i can replace!
If the issue is the deep scratches, you can't get them off with 1000, start with 280. Abrading glass is not like working to paint or metal.
Then at the end you can't get good finishing with paper only, crystal will always appear kind of blear. Use diamond paste on a felt wheel, mounted on a rotary tool. Don't bother with paste below 20 grit. Both paste and the tool, in case you haven't it, are very cheap on AliX or similar sites.
I'm think that is more an artifact of the low res display of the 1000 model than a real problem. In my opinion in the picture above the relation between lines is good, only the instrument draws some point one pixel off due to to rounding algorithm.
In other words it makes you see things worst than they are.