Thought I'd share some pics of my Oris Big crown with pointer-date (circa 2009?).
Simple classic design and quite in the spirit of the older Oris watches.
The case back gives a good view of the ETA2836 inside. The red rotor was a Oris touch. The edge of the caseback has a coin-edged design, similar to the front of the watch. This improves the look of the caseback as the metal edge would look too big otherwise. Increasing the display window wouldn't work I think as that would only show the movement holding ring.
The line is still pretty decent..
And the bracelet is nice and supple.
But the design of the clasp is a bit plain.
Oris deserves credit as it was one of the brands which was instrumental in bringing back the Swiss watch industry back from brink of the abyss. In the late. 80s and early nineties, their classically designed watches using ETA movements sold well by focussing on the mechanical movements and using it as their USP. Their tag-line at the time was 'high-much', as seen on the rotor in the movement pic above.
This watch came my way as a part exchange for an Omega Constellation. The previous owner had gotten the Swiss watch bug but as he got deeper into the hobby he started to appreciate other brands. To be specific, he was getting into the 'manufacturer' brands as opposed to 'ebauche' brands. It's a shame as this watch is quite good as it is. Ah well, the previous owner should be into Pateks by now!.
Yesterday my Oris watch hit a tiled floor when the strap pin broke and the back crystal popped off. Being in a rush , I quickly pressed it back into position and left it for later investigation.
Today the crystal seems to be fixed in position, but I have no experience of removing or replacing these. Was a simple press of the thumb strong enough to do the job? How can I check, other then testing with my thumb nail. Are these a simple pop on fixing?
Hello, I am working on an AS 1320 (Bulova 10BRC, 9AS) automatic movement and have found it to be missing a part for which I cannot find a name. I have looked at the 10 BRC automatic assembly parts list and the parts list for the movement itself and still cannot locate it. Here is a photo with the missing part outlined in red.
It is a spring-like device that prevents the automatic assembly's third winding wheel from engaging the ratchet wheel when the mainspring is fully wound. If anyone could tell me the name of this part so I could order a few replacement parts, I'd really appreciate it!
Indeed, and that's what I'm waiting for. I have a K&D 128 winder, but I've come to dislike it a lot. When I use it it is a 50/50 chance I succeed or mangle the spring. Perhaps it is me, but I'm thinking that as I could learn how to handle cap jewel springs quite well (even diafix springs) why shouldn't I be better with my K&D 128 winder. The Bergeon winders are just insanely expensive. I've been considering the Bergeon 5355 and complement with larger winders, but it is still fortune and I can buy "a bag" of new mainsprings for the same money.
All - here's an update on the LeCoultre tank.
Again, many thanks to John D and Klassiker!
I ordered the SternKreuz "Standard" R 210 x 160 (Cousins # RE210160). What I didn't realize was that the "extra" file-to-fit edges are beyond the measurements listed. So, there was a bit more fitting to do that I thought. None the less, it worked very well (in my opinion). Of course, a slightly different look than the original (which was flat on top) - but looks appropriate to the style and age of the watch.
Not perfect, but I'm pretty happy with the crystal. Now I just need to get it redialed. It appears to have be refinished in the past - and apparently with inferior materials. As you can see how bad this dial looks now (can best be seen in the pics posted above).
I want Dial Craft (Ontario Canada) to do the work - but they are shut down for the COVID-19 pandemic and apparently not opening anytime soon. I will probably still wait for them unless I can find someone open for business that I trust.
Does anyone here have any recommendation for dial refinishing?
I believe that International Dial Company was well thought of years ago - but seems like they have been on pretty sketchy ground for the last several years - and the examples that they show on their web site look pretty bad to me. Presumably the ones pictured are their better/best work. So, I don't think I would send them anything in the near future (if ever).
Minor update, although probably the first of any real value;
Once the pallet was removed I noticed that when wound, the gear train would operate (see video), although it felt and sounded quite laboured.
My first thought was that the pallet was not seated correctly, therefore obstructing the escape wheel from turning, however, I removed the pallet and re-seated it, and the behaviour is the same - a complete halt of the gear train.
Even more confusing, when rocking the pallet back and fourth with tweezers it does indeed rotate the escape wheel so I'm a bit confused?