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    • By anilv
      Hi guys,
      Thought I'd share some pics of my Oris Big crown with pointer-date (circa 2009?).
      Simple classic design and quite in the spirit of the older Oris watches.

      The case back gives a good view of the ETA2836 inside. The red rotor was a Oris touch. The edge of the caseback has a coin-edged design, similar to the front of the watch. This improves the look of the caseback as the metal edge would look too big otherwise. Increasing the display window wouldn't work I think as that would only show the movement holding ring.

      The line is still pretty decent..

      And the bracelet is nice and supple.

      But the design of the clasp is a bit plain.

      Oris deserves credit as it was one of the brands which was instrumental in bringing back the Swiss watch industry back from brink of the abyss. In the late. 80s and early nineties, their classically designed watches using ETA movements sold well by focussing on the mechanical movements and using it as their USP. Their tag-line at the time was 'high-much', as seen on the rotor in the movement pic above.
      This watch came my way as a part exchange for an Omega Constellation. The previous owner had gotten the Swiss watch bug but as he got deeper into the hobby he started to appreciate other brands. To be specific, he was  getting into the 'manufacturer' brands as opposed to 'ebauche' brands. It's a shame as this watch is quite good as it is. Ah well, the previous owner should be into Pateks by now!.
    • By mjtaven
      Can't stop wearing it !

    • By Ajayel
      Yesterday my Oris watch hit a tiled floor when the strap pin broke and the back crystal popped off. Being in a rush , I quickly pressed it back into position and left it for later investigation.

      Today the crystal seems to be fixed in position, but I have no experience of removing or replacing these. Was a simple press of the thumb strong enough to do the job? How can I check, other then testing with my thumb nail. Are these a simple pop on fixing?
      Many thanks.
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    • Hello, I had a similar situation with the B023M movement just recently.  Watch was sent to me with the capacitor "installed" but it would not charge regardless of the light or duration of time left under a light source.   I couldn't find any documentation on the correct installation position for the capacitor online or on images of similar movements online.  I did get the correct position figured out and the watch's original capacitor worked.  Sometimes the battery replacement 'experts' just place them in the cell cavity and hope for the best.  
    • I wonder if you'd see signs of slipage on the barrel wall when you open it or on the grease there?   Another possibility is if you have received a new faulty, weak MS,  especially that it feels smooth as you wind, If the old one is undamaged and you find it stronger than the new one, you have found the fault.  Weak MS exerts weak force against the wall, therefore weaker force of friction developes there, hence weak power reserve. I missed the initial section of your thread. When it stops, I give the barrel a nudge to see if it runs a lengthy second stage.
    • Motorcycle references tickles me too, as one needs to make them right . The Ducati Monster is just (like a watch model) name for their popular naked bike style. They come as small as 400c with power adequate for a beginner and the related license. Monster was ever meant to deliver big power, not even in it's 1200cc declination, or track use. 20 years ago the overused reference for a top performance bike  was perhaps an Hayabusa, more modernly maybe Ducati V4, or a Ninja H2R.
    • Hi  the markings will have some significance but with out access to the manufacturers data or other it will be dificult to interpret.
    • Hello and welcome to the forum     Its a watch that has been around for a while will need a service and mainspring sounds like its broken.
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