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    • By anilv
      Hi guys,
      Thought I'd share some pics of my Oris Big crown with pointer-date (circa 2009?).
      Simple classic design and quite in the spirit of the older Oris watches.

      The case back gives a good view of the ETA2836 inside. The red rotor was a Oris touch. The edge of the caseback has a coin-edged design, similar to the front of the watch. This improves the look of the caseback as the metal edge would look too big otherwise. Increasing the display window wouldn't work I think as that would only show the movement holding ring.

      The line is still pretty decent..

      And the bracelet is nice and supple.

      But the design of the clasp is a bit plain.

      Oris deserves credit as it was one of the brands which was instrumental in bringing back the Swiss watch industry back from brink of the abyss. In the late. 80s and early nineties, their classically designed watches using ETA movements sold well by focussing on the mechanical movements and using it as their USP. Their tag-line at the time was 'high-much', as seen on the rotor in the movement pic above.
      This watch came my way as a part exchange for an Omega Constellation. The previous owner had gotten the Swiss watch bug but as he got deeper into the hobby he started to appreciate other brands. To be specific, he was  getting into the 'manufacturer' brands as opposed to 'ebauche' brands. It's a shame as this watch is quite good as it is. Ah well, the previous owner should be into Pateks by now!.
      Anilv
       
    • By mjtaven
      Can't stop wearing it !

    • By Ajayel
      Yesterday my Oris watch hit a tiled floor when the strap pin broke and the back crystal popped off. Being in a rush , I quickly pressed it back into position and left it for later investigation.

      Today the crystal seems to be fixed in position, but I have no experience of removing or replacing these. Was a simple press of the thumb strong enough to do the job? How can I check, other then testing with my thumb nail. Are these a simple pop on fixing?
       
      Many thanks.
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    • The original application to build the "UK Time Corporation" factory that became Timex Dundee was posted by Timex in January 1946, according to this article. https://www.eveningtelegraph.co.uk/2016/01/29/dundees-timex-new-group-to-archive-stories-of-controversial-factory/ Production began in the early fifties and Timex produced watches and a variety of other hi-tec products there for 47 years. Little remains of the factory complex now, most of that area of Dundee having been "redeveloped" into the usual collection of out of town shopping centers and small industrial units.
    • Doubt that diamond paste will be effective on a filed surface as it will be 'rough' by polished standards.  ! would start with wet&dry papers going down to 2500 grit then go onto the polishing pastes.  Thoroughly clean after every grit/paste size and do on a flat plate.  Dialux bar polishing medium (grey I think for steel) may be better than diamond paste.
    • Quite cool pice of history..
    • I missed your post with the balancestaffs.com 30T2RG = OME26.5 BS4132 (RONDASTAFFS1856) (A=305) This also has an early inca version BS4133 (RONDASTAFFS4187) (A=305) 30T2PC = OME260  BS4149 (RONDASTAFFS3276) (A=329) and now I see what you mean, here they say you could use the slightly longer version too BS4148 (RONDASTAFFS1858) (A=332) which I'm not so sure of, even if the staff lenght isn't that far off it might affect the movement of the balance wheel since the pressure from the inca block springs would be slightly higher all time and one might not have any endshake at all. I would go with the original lenght of these.  
    • A gents "UK Time Dundee" on the bench today. This is one of the earlier Dundee Timex watches as it has the "UK Time" branding, so probably mid to late 1950s This is what arrived in the post. Not very clean and that crystal is almost certainly made from pure unobtanium. The "works" are stamped Made in Britain, but later versions often had Made in Scotland on them. I have it running, but the winding mechanism is badly worn (who would have thought it, looking at that crown ), so it feels a little "gritty" while winding. I used UV cure phone glass glue to close up the cracks in the crystal, but it really needs to be replaced. None the less it ticks and tells the time, and I've removed the case klingons, and given everything a good shine, so it is a whole lot more presentable. I'll let it run for a bit and regulate it. Another piece of local history joins the 404 collection.  
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