Jump to content
  • ×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

      Only 75 emoji are allowed.

    ×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

    ×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

    ×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By anilv
      Hi guys,
      Thought I'd share some pics of my Oris Big crown with pointer-date (circa 2009?).
      Simple classic design and quite in the spirit of the older Oris watches.

      The case back gives a good view of the ETA2836 inside. The red rotor was a Oris touch. The edge of the caseback has a coin-edged design, similar to the front of the watch. This improves the look of the caseback as the metal edge would look too big otherwise. Increasing the display window wouldn't work I think as that would only show the movement holding ring.

      The line is still pretty decent..

      And the bracelet is nice and supple.

      But the design of the clasp is a bit plain.

      Oris deserves credit as it was one of the brands which was instrumental in bringing back the Swiss watch industry back from brink of the abyss. In the late. 80s and early nineties, their classically designed watches using ETA movements sold well by focussing on the mechanical movements and using it as their USP. Their tag-line at the time was 'high-much', as seen on the rotor in the movement pic above.
      This watch came my way as a part exchange for an Omega Constellation. The previous owner had gotten the Swiss watch bug but as he got deeper into the hobby he started to appreciate other brands. To be specific, he was  getting into the 'manufacturer' brands as opposed to 'ebauche' brands. It's a shame as this watch is quite good as it is. Ah well, the previous owner should be into Pateks by now!.
    • By mjtaven
      Can't stop wearing it !

    • By Ajayel
      Yesterday my Oris watch hit a tiled floor when the strap pin broke and the back crystal popped off. Being in a rush , I quickly pressed it back into position and left it for later investigation.

      Today the crystal seems to be fixed in position, but I have no experience of removing or replacing these. Was a simple press of the thumb strong enough to do the job? How can I check, other then testing with my thumb nail. Are these a simple pop on fixing?
      Many thanks.
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the great responses.  Hope I get enough time to practice being just hobbiest currently! Just my mobile platform. Chrome browser, Android O/S. 
    • Thank you watchweasol. It took me a while to figure out how to the jam the train wheels and while I was trying to figure that out, I discovered the horn on which the pallet fork moves back and forth was bent and that did not allow the escape wheel to move further from the entry stone of the pallet fork. I managed to straighten that and tried putting on the balance but no luck. Then, I used a thin needle to try and jam the train of wheels and the end of that neddle was resting on the center wheel. In that state, when I tried to move the pallet fork, it was responsive and I could see it was allowing the escape wheel to move with corresponding movement of the other wheels. The moment I removed the needle from the 'jar' position, the escape wheel was no longer responsive. I'm still trying figure out what the issue is considering all wheels were spinning freely after I removed the pallet fork and tried winding the barrel.  Secondly, I did everything as you said i.e. Only put the barrel, ratchet and the barrel gear. After winding the spring a little, I tried to release the click spring but the barrel did not unwind. This is what I'm examining currently as I write this.  P. S. I manually unwound the power from the barrel by rotating the ratchet gear in the opposite direction till the point I could not rotate it anymore. 
    • Hi,    Its been a long time since I posted anything but I've ran into an issue that's a little different. I'm repairing a Rolex datejust with a 1570 movement. The watch has been exposed to a lot of moisture. The date ring itself is discolored and paint is separating from it. I have obtained a replacement. Now the issue is the date seating ring has some rust.  Two of the screws that hold it in place were badly rusted but I was able to remove them.  The real issue is one of the tabs on the date seating ring that hold the calendar ring in place has rusted and is preventing the calendar ring from moving properly. I have looked for a replacement part and it is expensive and hard to find.  The ones I have seen seem like they might have the same problem. I was wondering if it is possible to knock out the rusted tab and replace it with something? There is a hole underneath the seating ring where the tab is so I'm assuming it is just friction fitted. Any ideas would be much appreciated, especially if anyone has dealt with this issue before. Thanks, Charles 
    • Is there a reason a pin vise isn't in that list? First thing that came to my mind, but it's not something I've been faced with on this scale before.
    • I also managed to get out a screw similarly, used a bit of penetrating oil and with a lupe and with fine tweezers a managed to rotate the screw by the fraction of a mm by pushing the outer side of the screw as many times as it was required to be able to grab it at the end of the process. I guess it only works if the screw is not seized in its hole too much. I also think that i am now in a better position with using the bergeon tool having a stereo microscope with ring light so I could actually see what I am doing instead of being blind and go with full speed.
  • Create New...