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    • By anilv
      Hi guys,
      Thought I'd share some pics of my Oris Big crown with pointer-date (circa 2009?).
      Simple classic design and quite in the spirit of the older Oris watches.

      The case back gives a good view of the ETA2836 inside. The red rotor was a Oris touch. The edge of the caseback has a coin-edged design, similar to the front of the watch. This improves the look of the caseback as the metal edge would look too big otherwise. Increasing the display window wouldn't work I think as that would only show the movement holding ring.

      The line is still pretty decent..

      And the bracelet is nice and supple.

      But the design of the clasp is a bit plain.

      Oris deserves credit as it was one of the brands which was instrumental in bringing back the Swiss watch industry back from brink of the abyss. In the late. 80s and early nineties, their classically designed watches using ETA movements sold well by focussing on the mechanical movements and using it as their USP. Their tag-line at the time was 'high-much', as seen on the rotor in the movement pic above.
      This watch came my way as a part exchange for an Omega Constellation. The previous owner had gotten the Swiss watch bug but as he got deeper into the hobby he started to appreciate other brands. To be specific, he was  getting into the 'manufacturer' brands as opposed to 'ebauche' brands. It's a shame as this watch is quite good as it is. Ah well, the previous owner should be into Pateks by now!.
      Anilv
       
    • By mjtaven
      Can't stop wearing it !

    • By Ajayel
      Yesterday my Oris watch hit a tiled floor when the strap pin broke and the back crystal popped off. Being in a rush , I quickly pressed it back into position and left it for later investigation.

      Today the crystal seems to be fixed in position, but I have no experience of removing or replacing these. Was a simple press of the thumb strong enough to do the job? How can I check, other then testing with my thumb nail. Are these a simple pop on fixing?
       
      Many thanks.
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    • yep, they are not easy to come by.  
    • Main spring cleaning depends upon whose literature you're looking at. For instance Omega has a technical document on recycling mainspring barrels as they call it. They only wiped the mainspring down with a cloth no cleaners Or solvents. They're assuming that it Is a original mainsprings still has the dry somewhat invisible lubricant on its and that's why they just wipe it. At least that's what I'm assuming because there really really clear on no solvents were cleaners. If I'm doing a watch which is typically is a pocket watch and if I'm going to reuse the mainspring because it's an really beautiful nice condition then I just wipe it with a cloth with a solvent because it usually has sticky grease on it.  So I typically never clean mainsprings in the ultrasonic.   If the mainspring is an original blued steel spring Hulk still clean those with a cloth in a solvent but once their clean it put a thin coating of oil and/or grease on them. The Elgin watch company had a interesting document to why mainsprings break and they implied micro fractures due to rust. I tend to think poor manufacturing skills or not understanding things but steel mainsprings definitely do not like rust.
    • I think memory is less important than understanding. If you understand what the part does, then you should be able to figure out where it goes. Having said that, taking notes and pictures will help, both with the understanding, as you learn, and with those situations where it is less than obvious what goes where.  I recently took apart a Sekonda with date complication. I've taken apart and re-assembled several of these recently, and every time I do so, I can't for the life of me remember which way round one of the springs goes. I'm not sure what this proves, maybe Its an age thing, or maybe, and more likely, its because I don't actually remember every part of every movement, but actually figure most of it out based on experience. As it happens I also have pictures of that particular movement, and there are others on line, so the issue doesn't cause me any grief. If you have any doubt about a particular assembly or disassembly step. Stop and think.You will save yourself a lot of time in the long run, if you take the time to think. If you can't figure it out, ask. There are no daft questions, but there are many  people too daft to ask questions.
    • It probably would be beneficial to get the heated one, I guess I could find other uses for it, not just cleaning watch movements. I’m somewhat concerned about the size 0.8 litre. Definitely plenty for watch parts but I am not sure how mainsprings are placed into the baskets. Looking at the baskets for the proper watch cleaning machines they are 64mm in diameter so I’m guessing I shouldn’t have any problems with the smaller beakers that fit into the smallest S10H which are 81mm in diameter. A basket intended for a watch cleaning machine (Elma) would fit. I watch many videos on YouTube and now and again I see watchmakers inserting watch parts into the baskets but I have never seen one with a mainspring hence I have no idea how I’d do it myself. I am guessing mainsprings go into watch cleaning machines? Would I be regreting it later for some reason not getting a larger ultrasonic bath?
    • gasoline has no place for watch cleaning.  it can be used for paint thinner with enamel,   it can be used as a first clean on a clock mvt., (the clock will run when submerged in gasoline).  then wash it off with a garden hose. AND don't smoke around gasoline.    vin
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