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    • By anilv
      Hi guys,
      Thought I'd share some pics of my Oris Big crown with pointer-date (circa 2009?).
      Simple classic design and quite in the spirit of the older Oris watches.

      The case back gives a good view of the ETA2836 inside. The red rotor was a Oris touch. The edge of the caseback has a coin-edged design, similar to the front of the watch. This improves the look of the caseback as the metal edge would look too big otherwise. Increasing the display window wouldn't work I think as that would only show the movement holding ring.

      The line is still pretty decent..

      And the bracelet is nice and supple.

      But the design of the clasp is a bit plain.

      Oris deserves credit as it was one of the brands which was instrumental in bringing back the Swiss watch industry back from brink of the abyss. In the late. 80s and early nineties, their classically designed watches using ETA movements sold well by focussing on the mechanical movements and using it as their USP. Their tag-line at the time was 'high-much', as seen on the rotor in the movement pic above.
      This watch came my way as a part exchange for an Omega Constellation. The previous owner had gotten the Swiss watch bug but as he got deeper into the hobby he started to appreciate other brands. To be specific, he was  getting into the 'manufacturer' brands as opposed to 'ebauche' brands. It's a shame as this watch is quite good as it is. Ah well, the previous owner should be into Pateks by now!.
      Anilv
       
    • By mjtaven
      Can't stop wearing it !

    • By Ajayel
      Yesterday my Oris watch hit a tiled floor when the strap pin broke and the back crystal popped off. Being in a rush , I quickly pressed it back into position and left it for later investigation.

      Today the crystal seems to be fixed in position, but I have no experience of removing or replacing these. Was a simple press of the thumb strong enough to do the job? How can I check, other then testing with my thumb nail. Are these a simple pop on fixing?
       
      Many thanks.
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    • I use this LED light. It’s small, standing eleven and a half inches tall. The top of the light flexes so you can move it into different positions. Sometimes it’s too bright so I tape a piece of watchmakers paper to the light to diffuse it a bit. Costs $29.00. I ordered it online from Office Depot.  Picture is has the light on my workbench. 
    • So, I'm gonna try and post a couple of photos shortly, both Seiko of course for reasons stated earlier.   The blue one is apparently called the "ashtray" bezel. It winds, works, keeps good time, over the last 8 hours anyway, the only snag being the day pusher function does not operate every time.  The silver one is a Seiko deluxe which does not wind or work, in fact it makes a disheartening rattly noise when shaken, like something has come adrift inside.  They were purchased as items for me to take apart and study, then hopefully reassemble, having cleaned and lubed.  The ashtray arrived from India today, the deluxe arrived from Japan today, both were ordered last midweek. How easy these days to begin a new hobby, what with international freight, the Internet, and training vids on you tube. I may not even renew my porn subscription, this hobby could save me money!!!   Next purchase will be a set of intro level tools, then to business. 
    • One option for white is to use a toner reactive foil. This is what I used with success: https://www.circuitspecialists.com/pcb-trf-white.html I didn't use decal paper for printing but used toner transfer paper. My presumption this would still work with the film-less decal paper. Getting the toner reactive foil to work is tricky though. It requires both heat and pressure. Too much heat and pressure and entire dial turns white. Too little and it would only partially stick. It also requires some brushing to remove any bits of foil left over. It took a lot of time, practice an patience for it to work for me but it is certainly possible. I wouldn't recommend this on a dial you only have one-shot with, try with a blank you can practice with.
    • Ah yes, a coupla good ideas there!  I'll go find a welder and cadge a rod, that's a cheap option. Thank you fellas. 
    • Thanks, nickelsilver!  You mean, the first hairspring, the one still mounted is beyond repair? I haven’t touched it. If it is what you meant, it’s disappointing.  Thanks for the clarification on the vintage tools!
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