Thought I'd share some pics of my Oris Big crown with pointer-date (circa 2009?).
Simple classic design and quite in the spirit of the older Oris watches.
The case back gives a good view of the ETA2836 inside. The red rotor was a Oris touch. The edge of the caseback has a coin-edged design, similar to the front of the watch. This improves the look of the caseback as the metal edge would look too big otherwise. Increasing the display window wouldn't work I think as that would only show the movement holding ring.
The line is still pretty decent..
And the bracelet is nice and supple.
But the design of the clasp is a bit plain.
Oris deserves credit as it was one of the brands which was instrumental in bringing back the Swiss watch industry back from brink of the abyss. In the late. 80s and early nineties, their classically designed watches using ETA movements sold well by focussing on the mechanical movements and using it as their USP. Their tag-line at the time was 'high-much', as seen on the rotor in the movement pic above.
This watch came my way as a part exchange for an Omega Constellation. The previous owner had gotten the Swiss watch bug but as he got deeper into the hobby he started to appreciate other brands. To be specific, he was getting into the 'manufacturer' brands as opposed to 'ebauche' brands. It's a shame as this watch is quite good as it is. Ah well, the previous owner should be into Pateks by now!.
Yesterday my Oris watch hit a tiled floor when the strap pin broke and the back crystal popped off. Being in a rush , I quickly pressed it back into position and left it for later investigation.
Today the crystal seems to be fixed in position, but I have no experience of removing or replacing these. Was a simple press of the thumb strong enough to do the job? How can I check, other then testing with my thumb nail. Are these a simple pop on fixing?
Good advice from @watchweasol. Most likely a servicing issue rather than a breakage.
Imagine your watch as a little engine and where the pivots for the various 'engine' parts run in lubricated (jewel) holes. Over time that important lubrication deteriorates and the engine parts cannot spin freely and the watch does not run. When you tap the watch you give enough energy for the watch to run again and overcome the deficient lubrication but the effect is of course only temporary. What a watch service does is to dismantle the watch, thoroughly clean all the parts, re-lubricate the necessary parts and perhaps replace a worn item like the mainspring.
Much like a car service you could do this yourself but you'll need the tools and expertise to do it. Otherwise you have to take it to someone who can service it ... but as a skilled and time consuming job it's not a budget thing. So for most people how they proceed boils down to the value of the watch ... not only in cold monetary terms but also their connection to the watch. Unfortunately with perfectly lovely watches that are not of high value a lot of people decide the service cost is not worth it. A shame as there must be gazillions of watches languishing in drawers out there!
Hi from what you describe it sounds like the watch is a candidate for servicing . A good clean and lubricate. prices vary from repair station to watchmaker, or do it your self but that requires you to set up a repair station, If you wish to continue as a hobby then ok if not out source the repair.
Hello all, I have a Seiko automatic 17 jewel 7005-2000 watch that I would like to wear, however the watch stops from time-to-time and takes a finger tap to get it running again. If the issue is serious, perhaps due to age, and therefor expensive to repair then I'll have to consign it to the 'bits draw' but if there's a chance of an inexpensive repair then I would certainly have the work done. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
You carefully lever it off, minding not to damage the hairspring. They are not particularly tight. Levers like for removing watch hands. I have used stanley knife blades before, just go under the hairspring and gently prise it off. Remember to mark where the end of the hairspring sits for alignment refitting it, or it will be out of beat.