Jump to content

general question on mainspring

Recommended Posts

Hello. I am a reckless novice in the field of watchmaking and I always risk breaking parts when I work on watches.

Of the parts, I often get confused about how to put back the mainspring in the barrel. 

Most of times, I make mistake by winding it back in to the barrel in wrong direction and mainspring gets curved the other way. (I do this by hand since I have no mainspring winder)

Is there a tip on how to get started in correct direction??




Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hiya Stephen, well no there isn't anything wrong with a loupe and staking set as such. I'm just looking for a more convenient way to assemble a balance. What i dont like about the staking set is the position your head needs to be in to see whats happening and i know nothing can be done about that, the tool can only be used upright and the frame can be a bit distracting when looking from different angles ( for me anyway because I'm an awkward bugger ) So apart from using a stake kit to fit a staff i always press on the roller and hairspring freehand using a block, and usually with a loupe. So i changed that and tried doing it with a jeweling tool on its side, worked ok using a loupe for magnification better still under a scope . My thoughts are to simplify that further with something i can pick up, look at it easily from all sides and from above and that can fuction like a jeweling tool but more hand holdable without a micrometer . 
    • Using carbon steel from a feeler gauge, I must have got lucky the first time I annealed. The hole drilled just like it was mild steel - it just went straight through. Shaping with a file was also so easy. The next time I used the same set of feeler gauges. Annealed as before ... and broke 2 drills. Couldn't touch it. Took three more attempts at annealing before I could drill a hole. But it still wasn't as soft as the first time. I now have a steel cannister (an old box spanner with the end hammered over) and some activated charcoal for my next attempt at annealing.
    • Hey all, been a while since the last post but i have some update info on drilling hardened steel for setting levers, @mikepilk if you're interested . It's a real shit of a job without the right gear 🤷‍♂️ After annealing my setting lever i did manage to drill 2 holes the first was ok and relatively quick i think i was just lucky and had something right,the second was tough and the other 2 i needed i just gave up. Pivot drills work but not great, this is supposedly after annealing. The steel is softer and shaping files seem to cut better, but hand drilling with the cheap carbide drills just does not work they break and chip like billyoh, unless...............you have the right gear. This is someway of getting the right gear. Proxon micro drill, the runout 1 1/2 from the head i cant see with x20 loupe holding a .4mm carbide bit. Proxon drill press stand makes it very useable. It isn't cheap but it is , its kind of entry level micro drilling and milling but on a fair quality tool. 0.4mm cheap crappy carbide drills eat through hard and tempered setting levers and feeler gauges ( nothing annealed ) at 5000 revs, the lowest the micromot 240v can go. No chipping of the carbide, but there is a technique involved, you cant just push your way through in one go and i think that might be to do with hardening of the steel as the drill end sits burnishing away on the surface of the steel or maybe the bit needs to bite in. The bit has to bite and back off a dozen times to get through but its about 30 seconds to 1 minute depending how brave you are, i drilled dry so a drop of oil could very well improve the situation. Its not the exact setup i was after but i figure i have some multi use here . Proxon do a few bigger more versatile milling machines and Dell put me onto a make that I'm considering but more like next year now. The little setup i have here is a little introduction to milling for me, i think i like it for now.
    • Thanks John, I think that is where the problem started for this watch. It was taken for a battery replacement by the diver (owner) and the technician didn't tighten the crown and the then owner didn't check (assuming done by the battery replacer) and of course the salt water flooded in. It came to me as a parts watch. As part of my watch repair journey, I am excited to see if I can at least get the analogue time function to work again. It would need a factory service if it were to ever go beneath the waves again, as would any dive watch purchased from ebay or etsy etc. rob
    • Hi @RichardHarris123 not necessarily, on the some the dial is in two parts. Once the bezel is removed the chapter ring is removed gaining access to the stem release, once done the top watch lifts off allowing both batteries to be changed. They all seem to employ the same method just achieved differently On others the bezel is removed by removing screw on the bezel , others use pry points. Its a case of careful inspection before proceeding.
  • Create New...