Jump to content

Tag Heuer 2000 Series Automatic Chronograph


Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone. Quite new to all this so please bear with me!

Here I have a broken Tag Heuer 2000 Series Automatic Chronograph. 865.406

I opened up the back of the watch and it has the Lemania LWO 283 auto module coupled with an ETA 2892-2 movement.

It's been in a draw for a more than a decade after it fell off the bedside cabinet onto the ceramic tile floor.

As a result of the fall, it would not wind up automatically and  the crown and stem would not pull out to allow the date / hands to be adjusted. I foolishly applied excessive force pulling it and the crown and stem came away from the watch.

As this point I put it away in the draw and forgot about it. It caught my eye the other day and decided it was time to try and get it working again, at which point I found and studied Marks 4 part vid on the eta 2892 movement.

Here she is:

20180615_171227.thumb.jpg.47b346b1e2451b6374fba09d450a7472.jpg20180615_171313.thumb.jpg.23b5bc0b281a04333e5c03d54c5f09f1.jpg

The inner side of the strap has corroded. Tag do a very nice brown leather strap for these, I will probably buy one.

Also the back cover and the body need a good polish, I wonder if that is something I can do myself?

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have started to strip her down, I removed the movement from the body of the watch and then removed the LWO 283 auto mechanism from the movement. The auto seems to be in ok condition, no play in the big bearing in the middle, all gears are responding to input from moving the balance weight.

I also removed the balance, the train wheels and the barrel bridge.

I've then flipped it over to try and get at the setting lever mechanism which is where I suspect problems are. I was able to remove the "minute train bridge" but the screw shown in the pic below will not budge.

Can I ask is this screw a regular right hand thread? I have ordered some smaller screw drivers as I think the 1mm I was using was not getting much purchase.

settinglever.jpg.14b8b56f82bdb9dd806ac15fdb90f451.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is this your first watch you have serviced?

If it is you may be over reaching a bit.

I would suggest keeping it safe and buy a few 'ebay specials' and try your hand at them first, this is quiet a complicated watch and I still wouldnt touch it even though I have been studying watch repair for the last 2 1/2 years

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since it appears that you never worked on watches before, I absolutely recommend that you will not try to repair your valuable watch by yourself. There are really too many chances to do even more serious damage than what it has already. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ricardo, I wish that you had taken the advice of jdm. Well, it is your watch so go carefully with plenty of mechanical sympathy. Best fix some cheap watches at first to get the practice and know how. good wishes, Mike.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, ecodec said:

go carefully with plenty of mechanical sympathy.

I have an engineering / technical background, precision machinist and electronics. I watched plenty of Marks vids and thought I can have a crack at that. Worse case scenario is that my broken watch becomes more broken and then I pay somebody to fix it :biggrin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Ricardo said:

I have an engineering / technical background, precision machinist and electronics. I watched plenty of Marks vids and thought I can have a crack at that.

Be reassured than plenty of people here have the same or better background, still have found the hard way that mov.t repair and service has a steep learning curve, and they break and lose a lot of parts before getting it right. Not to mention the absolute need to have the right tools and materials, and working environment.

In Mark's videos everything appears easy because that's exactly his objective. And not only he's very good at what he does,  he also shoots professional video with heavy post-production.

Each one is entitled to do what he wants with his property, but for an absolute beginner starting with a sophisticated and expensive mov.t is objectively a big mistake, and you should listen to what people is telling you here. That being said I know that these words have often the opposite effect on Western males, stimulating pride, challenge and high self-esteem instincts. We have plenty of threads here started by guys with your same attitude, guess what, none had a positive follow-up or follow-up at all.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, jdm said:

In Mark's videos everything appears easy

No. No it doesn't. Not by any stretch of the imagination would any non mechanically minded person consider anything he does in those videos easy. Not once you can see the actual size of the parts involved. That said lots of it doesn't look impossible either.

But I get what you're saying, this one needs to go to a pro. Actually I just looked at some of the asking prices for similar working models and I hadn't realized these had retained such value. i was thinking it was worth £50 or something :biggrin:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a side note just to buy all the oils and greases you would need to service this watch will set you back around £150.

It definitely a hobby worth sticking at, but go pick up a few manual wind watches and strip down and service those ones first, it doesn't hurt as much when you trash a $20 watch, and trust me you will as I'm sure most of us will agree when first starting out we all trashed a few watches, whether by breaking pivots, sending click springs into orbit or damaging main springs when fitting them back into barrels.

Or even just making nasty scratches on screws and bridges as we got used to manipulating them with tweezers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it is just the keyless side that is faulty and that is all you alter and you don't snap any screws with the correct screwdrivers you could repair. However the working movement side is far more difficult and one slip and the watch could be dust.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, clockboy said:

If it is just the keyless side that is faulty and that is all you alter and you don't snap any screws with the correct screwdrivers you could repair.

Clockboy, the watch had stopped due to impact even before the OP used brute force on the stem. Fortunately Ricardo is now willing to have it repaired professionally and I hope he'll update here when done showing it in the hot Thai nights and days.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 2892 automatic chrono is something that most watchmakers shy away from . It seems that its not really serviceable, I've heard that Omega just replaces the chrono module with a fresh one after servicing the base movement.

If you have to take it apart, take note that the chrono needs to be in the running position before dismantling (ie button pressed in as if the chrono was started). This relieves tension on some of the parts so that they dont fly off in every direction.

Good luck!

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

52 minutes ago, anilv said:

The 2892 automatic chrono is something that most watchmakers shy away from . It seems that its not really serviceable, I've heard that Omega just replaces the chrono module with a fresh one after servicing the base movement.

From the OP looks like the issue is with the base mov.t not running, and the damage to the keyless. Nothing was mentioned  about the chrono module.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While it may be possible to reseat the set-lever back into the winding pinion groove by removing the barrel bridge working on it from that side,  It seems to me that this watch has more issues and a full stripdown is warranted. 

Anilv 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
×
×
  • Create New...