Jump to content

Teardown question


Recommended Posts

So this is my third teardown after watching Mark's lessons.  I'm not sure how this one comes apart.  I'm hoping with pictures someone has advice.  So in the first picture I remove the two screws that look like they are holding the movement to the case. Looking at the size of the dial and the case design in the back, I'm assuming I have to take the crystal off to remove the hands so I can take the movement out?  From my pictures, does that look correct?  At first i thought that lighter colored metal ring came out, but it does not seem to move, I think it is part of the case?

 

IMG_20180613_054617903_HDR.jpg

IMG_20180613_054021124.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does it have a bezel? Not sure from the pics....If yes, remove the bezel by placing something very thin between it and the watch case: bezel and crystal should come off as one. If no bezel remove the crystal and since you've removed the case screws, the movement should come right out when you turn case upside down.

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just guessing but I think the crystal come off and it drops out the front once the stem is pulled and the screws you removed are, removed. 

Dial should be fixed to the movement. If it’s not rattling now, held in only by the hands, my guess is it comes out the front. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm just getting to read more comments after playing with it a little before work this morning.

I removed the crystal and took off the hands.  As suggested the movement is fixed to the dial.  However it's still not coming out the front.  I made the rookie mistake of trying to start taking it apart from the back.  Oops, I should have know better, that's why Mark gave me an order of doing things for taking the movement apart in the lessons.  Hopefully I haven't damaged anything.

The crown is missing and I didn't see a stem sticking out, so i assumed it was all missing.  I wonder if the stem was broken off with the crown and it's half in there still and holding it in place.  

Thanks for the input everyone.  I'll have to play with this a little more tomorrow morning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, kevinb95 said:

I'm just getting to read more comments after playing with it a little before work this morning.

I removed the crystal and took off the hands.  As suggested the movement is fixed to the dial.  However it's still not coming out the front.  I made the rookie mistake of trying to start taking it apart from the back.  Oops, I should have know better, that's why Mark gave me an order of doing things for taking the movement apart in the lessons.  Hopefully I haven't damaged anything.

The crown is missing and I didn't see a stem sticking out, so i assumed it was all missing.  I wonder if the stem was broken off with the crown and it's half in there still and holding it in place.  

Thanks for the input everyone.  I'll have to play with this a little more tomorrow morning.

Disassembling while in the case shouldn't damage anything. What I would have suggested is that you see if you can wiggle the movement out by gently lifting from the 9 o'clock side - opposite the stem - in case the stem is broken as you note. If it is broken in there it can present a bit of a challenge to remove. Now that you have begun disassembly, can you see the stem??? You may need to continue down this road. If you get sight of it, you may need to loosen the set lever and try and push the stem out by using an old oiler. You should be able to see the stem by looking into the crown opening and using a flashlight. 

I have run into another situation previously where the real reason I could not remove the movement is that someone had glued the dial to the main plate since the feet had broken. The glue spread and essentially bonded the movement to the case. Let's hope that's not your issue!

Keep us posted.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
×
×
  • Create New...