Jump to content

Teardown question

kevinb95
 Share

Recommended Posts

kevinb95 Member

kevinb95

Posted
Posted

So this is my third teardown after watching Mark's lessons.  I'm not sure how this one comes apart.  I'm hoping with pictures someone has advice.  So in the first picture I remove the two screws that look like they are holding the movement to the case. Looking at the size of the dial and the case design in the back, I'm assuming I have to take the crystal off to remove the hands so I can take the movement out?  From my pictures, does that look correct?  At first i thought that lighter colored metal ring came out, but it does not seem to move, I think it is part of the case?

 

IMG_20180613_054617903_HDR.jpg

IMG_20180613_054021124.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
noirrac1j Distinguished Member

noirrac1j

Posted
Posted

Does it have a bezel? Not sure from the pics....If yes, remove the bezel by placing something very thin between it and the watch case: bezel and crystal should come off as one. If no bezel remove the crystal and since you've removed the case screws, the movement should come right out when you turn case upside down.

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tudor Distinguished Member

Tudor

Posted
Posted

Just guessing but I think the crystal come off and it drops out the front once the stem is pulled and the screws you removed are, removed. 

Dial should be fixed to the movement. If it’s not rattling now, held in only by the hands, my guess is it comes out the front. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
kevinb95 Member

kevinb95

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm just getting to read more comments after playing with it a little before work this morning.

I removed the crystal and took off the hands.  As suggested the movement is fixed to the dial.  However it's still not coming out the front.  I made the rookie mistake of trying to start taking it apart from the back.  Oops, I should have know better, that's why Mark gave me an order of doing things for taking the movement apart in the lessons.  Hopefully I haven't damaged anything.

The crown is missing and I didn't see a stem sticking out, so i assumed it was all missing.  I wonder if the stem was broken off with the crown and it's half in there still and holding it in place.  

Thanks for the input everyone.  I'll have to play with this a little more tomorrow morning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
sstakoff WRT Addict

sstakoff

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, kevinb95 said:

I'm just getting to read more comments after playing with it a little before work this morning.

I removed the crystal and took off the hands.  As suggested the movement is fixed to the dial.  However it's still not coming out the front.  I made the rookie mistake of trying to start taking it apart from the back.  Oops, I should have know better, that's why Mark gave me an order of doing things for taking the movement apart in the lessons.  Hopefully I haven't damaged anything.

The crown is missing and I didn't see a stem sticking out, so i assumed it was all missing.  I wonder if the stem was broken off with the crown and it's half in there still and holding it in place.  

Thanks for the input everyone.  I'll have to play with this a little more tomorrow morning.

Disassembling while in the case shouldn't damage anything. What I would have suggested is that you see if you can wiggle the movement out by gently lifting from the 9 o'clock side - opposite the stem - in case the stem is broken as you note. If it is broken in there it can present a bit of a challenge to remove. Now that you have begun disassembly, can you see the stem??? You may need to continue down this road. If you get sight of it, you may need to loosen the set lever and try and push the stem out by using an old oiler. You should be able to see the stem by looking into the crown opening and using a flashlight. 

I have run into another situation previously where the real reason I could not remove the movement is that someone had glued the dial to the main plate since the feet had broken. The glue spread and essentially bonded the movement to the case. Let's hope that's not your issue!

Keep us posted.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • JohnR725
      Main spring

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • Jon
      Main spring

      By Jon · Posted

      I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is.
    • Malocchio
      What tools does ebay have to offer this week.

      By Malocchio · Posted

      I recently bought this but not on ebay. I figured if I want something Japanese I better check Japanese auction sites since these don't seem to pop up on ebay. I paid 83 € plus shipping & taxes. I think it was pretty reasonable for a complete set in good condition.
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Did you take the friction pinion off the large driving wheel and grease it? Although, now that I think about it, that shouldn't have any effect on the free running of the train if the friction pinion isn't interacting withe minute wheel/setting wheel...
×
×
  • Create New...