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Old Hampden pocket watch


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Have this old Hampden gladiator pocket watch from my grandfather . It was working  when i was a child. But  when i moved someone dropped it to the floor. Not me that time :)  Breaking something. Probably the balance staff. I have been wanting to repair it but don't know if it's possible. What do you think.  Looks like some parts are missing also.  Is it even possible? 

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Found this on youtube. 

 

Edited by rogart63
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I love Hampden 18s pocket watches & have four that I have restored & probably that many as parts movements. I don't want to know how much time & money I have invested in this beautiful coin silver favorite of mine

If it is very important to you for sentimental reasons I would say go for it.

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Time i have . Is it even possible to do? It would be very cool to get it running again. What shall i look for. I have search for Hampden Gladiator . But there is a lot of different movements out there. Not sure where to start looking. I can service watches but have worked on pocket watches. 

Balance is toast . So is the pallet fork. Some  screws are missing. And the regulator arm is missing to. 

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I think you need to start at the Pocket watch data base to get all the information about your watch. Go there and type your watch serial number into it . The site will tell you model, jewel count etc.From there you can search Ebay for the correct model , jewel count & with all the information you have.

I'm sorry if I am repeating things you know but I am just assuming, correct me if I'm wrong.

Here is a link to the data base. https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/

Now you can begin :)

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    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
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