I have purchased a GUB09207211 hairspring from Cousins watch parts and I am not sure how to attached it to the anchor on the balance cock. Is there a tool I should use or is there a method that I can employ. Any help is appreciated Thanks.
I'm new to the watch repair and came across the watch repair videos whilst browsing YouTube. I've been through the free introductary lessons and once I have some basic equipment in place I plan on subscribing to the level 1 course.
I became intersetd in watch repair as I picked up a couple of non-running Ingersoll Triumph pocket watches and started to investigate how I could get them up and running again. Hopefully they will be running smoothly again soon.
Hi everyone, I have some problems with a manual winding watch. It needs some work but I would try to do it myself. The watch appears fully wound but it doesn't work. Which is the problem? Thank you in advance
I work a lot on small caliber (ladies watch size) movements but still have mishaps with the balance hairspring. These hairsprings are very fragile and easily bent and removing/replacing the balance assembly seems to be my problem. I would like any comments on the risks of deforming the hairspring by allowing the wheel to dangle during handling. I would also like to know if the position of the regulator arm/pins has any effect re risk of deforming the spring, should it be close to the stud or as far a possible from the stud, I normally leave it where I find it so the timing is close to what it was before dis-assembly. Any advice on techniques etc will be much appreciated.
I am correcting a deformed hairspring and need to set the curve for the regulator pins. De Carle mentions using curve-forming tweezers, which I cannot yet find. What are the alternate practices for forming this curved portion of the over curve?
The standard is with the roller centered with the arms, it the most aesthetically pleasing, also means the arms are not obscuring the fork when setting up the escapement, and makes visually checking the amplitude easy. As the roller is not poised, it does have an effect on the balance poise. So balances are always poised with the roller in place. For fun, reverse the position of roller and hairspring 180 degrees on a watch with a good rate in the vertical positions. It goes way out. On 3 arm balances it can really be anywhere. If in doubt after replacing a staff, bet on placing the roller jewel opposite where metal was removed to poise the balance.
To highlight that sequence of events I wrote "makes the pallet move", meaning "initiates the movement of the pallet". Of course the pallet also transmits significant power to the impulse jewel and certain parameters can be optimized for a nicely "self starting" mov't, but all that I've omitted for the simplicity of discussion.
I have been searching on (digital) old texts about the importance of this, but haven't found anything so far.
Intuitively it seems to me that with a perfectly poised balance there should be no difference in performances no matter how they sit, but likely there something that escapes me?
Not to say that it would be acceptable for a factory or repairer to assemble in a inconsistent manner, and before considering that three and four spokes balances also exist.