De-tangling the tangled hairspring
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Yes, as watch repairers we never ever use force, we use percussive persuasion! 🤣 -
I have a barrel bridge arbor bearing that needs a slight reduction. I have never closed a barrel bridge arbor hole before and my staking set has a very limited number of doomed punches and most of them are too small (go through the hole) or too short to fit in the lower section of my inverto-style Boley & Leinen staking tool. So, I'm considering ordering a few doomed punches from CousinsUK. My question is what sizes I should order? Is there a rule of thumb relating to the hole diameter? I too worried that reducing the hole size would increase the end-shake. Especially as Kalle Slaap talks about end-shake at the end of the video at 7:43, but then he just glosses over it by saying "You can just gently push the material back in", which I don't get at all 🤔 Anyway, I feel a lot less worried now after having seen @mikepilk's excellent illustration. Thanks!
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If you have access to a 3D printer, here is my design I did a few weeks ago: -
I finished my polisher yesterday, and just tried it out. I'm surprised how easy it is to get a good result - just a couple of minutes. I thought it was going to be more difficult - a nice surprise as most things in watchmaking are harder than you expect. I bought self adhesive 3M lapping film https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/film-lapping-3m-261x266x , 9, 3 and 1 micron, and stuck it to sheets of glass. The 9 micron is course enough to remove large scratches. I'm glad I used the M6 thumb screws as the large heads allow for small adjustments. -
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