and just to put it out there that dial had a layer of grime and corrosion on it, i should have taken a pic of the dial out of the case. the crystal was just yellow, i have another of the same dial which i will be doing soon so i will take pics this time.
Gentlemen, I am curious to learn about my everyday carry pocket watch.
I'm aware that it is Swiss made, and was made around 1910. That it was cased in England, and although a nice watch, isn't worth ten's of thousands.
Does anyone have info on who actually made this watch? Are there others here who own or have owned these watches?
Thanks in advance,
I agree, the pressure of the stem on the setting mechanism and wheels must release some of the friction built up allowing the movement to run. Maybe gunk... or maybe someone serviced it and messed up the wheels/CP.
As always, the fact that it does run one way or another is a good sign that you should be able to save it.
yea i mean every dial is different, but i chose CLR because its safe on metal and i chose wd40 because i read a post about using baby oil, but i didnt like baby oil because its very hard to dry up. wd40 will actually dry up fairly easily, and it still has penetrating qualities when it comes to loosening rust, dirt, grime. and again both CLR and WD are safe on metals and inks. there was no varnish on this dial. I have used the same method on porcelain dials with success. MY initial thought was that the CLR will definitely loosen and remove the old lume but to my surprise it didnt! and i even took a rag and wiped pretty hard on a scrap dial, but obviously i didnt wipe hard on this dial, but i try to test the extremes so i know how far i can take it when iam working on a good dial. Q-tips i never use for rubbing on metal dials because if their is a layer of varnish it will scratch! It is safe to use on porcelain though. pegwood will scratch varnish as well. Varnish can be very difficult to clean since some manufacturers print over the varnish layer, so removal will remove the ink. If its under the varnish then extra care must be taken, the boiling method works but it can remove the ink too in some cases, but WD40, olive oil, and detergent can penetrate the varnish without removing ink.
I now keep a piece of pegwood soaked with WD, i use it to clean watch cases and movement parts before sending them to the ultrasonic. The solution i use will remove all the WD residue so it doesnt matter, and the shine is unreal.
Thanks Nucejoe; The watch will wind. Once fully wound it will run and keep time for better than 36 hours or perhaps more, but not 48.
If I wind it two or three turns, it will not run.
I haven't counted exactly how many full turns my other watches will wind until they stop at fully wound, but this Hamilton 992 would take twice as many turns until it reaches its stop (its a ridiculous amount of time on the ratchet and it's kind of stiff).
As my other watches don't behave this way, I'm assuming something is wrong?
If someone replaced a broken main spring with the wrong one, would the watch conceivably act the way I'm describing?
Pic for entertainment factor, I assume you are all familiar with these movements.