Jump to content

Elma Watch Cleaning Machine


Recommended Posts

Ok, I had to replace the wiring in my old Elma when I got it a can remember the weird fourth wire. That was a while ago so is a bit hazy but if I remember right you have the live from the plug which goes up to the control head at the top of the column where it connects to the motor switch. It also connects to the heater switch. The other side of the heater switch the cable then goes back down the column and through the heater. When it comes out of the heater it goes to the neutral on the plug.

The neutral side of the motor switch goes through the speed controller then back down the column to the plug. So I think that what you have is 1 earth, 1 live, and 2 neutrals to connect to the plug. That way the power for the motor and the heater are independent of each other. It should be possible to verify this with a meter if you have one. Unfortunately I can't remember which colour was which.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mark, I think you have the answer.

 

Two neutrals will allow independent operation of two items but only one live is needed as it loops across.

 

So it will be Line ( live ) Black.

 

Neutral Grey.

 

Second Neutral Blue.

 

And Ground ( Earth ) Red.

 

I can check this with a meter so no risk of blowing it ( and myself ) up.

 

Thanks to all of you for your help.

 

Mike

Edited by Alaskamick
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I don't think that the basket should be touching the heater especially as the new ones are made from plastic.

 

The heater temperature cannot be altered unless you have purchased a different one.

 

The fault has got to be with the position 

 

Just try raising it up the shaft a little.

 

If you need to buy a new one, try Walsh's instead of Cousins. They are very helpful and cheaper. They also have shops which you can collect from instead of paying postage.

 

Mike

Edited by Alaskamick
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow Micky that looks painful. I've always wondered how long to leave it in the drying cycle. I personally only turn the heater on when I place the basket in its final rinse & then when placing it in the heater, I turn the speed to minimum, only push the plunger for the basket down approx 1/3 & time for 7min. Even then the basket comes out hot, infact virtually to hot to touch.

What process did you use? as I really don't want to melt mine as well.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Micky please don't tell me you are plunging the basket down towards the heater!

If so then don't plunge down. Just bring the basket into the chamber but don't push the basket plunger any further. Or in other words - keep the basket in the up position

I usually have mine running for 12 - 13 minutes in this position with no problems.

I also turn the heater on just before placing the basket in the heat chamber and not any earlier

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mark,

 

Normally I don't put the basket all the way in the heater, and do as you advise, but for some reason, on Friday whilst finishing up work, I must of accidentally pushed it down after the heater was switched off, (Obviously it was still very hot) lesson learned here, just had to purchase a new basket.

 

Purchased from Cousins, I do occasionally buy from HSWalsh too, and agree, they are helpful.

Edited by SSTEEL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've melted one before. That day, I don't know why, I had pushed the basket a little inside the chamber and spinning at max speed. Somehow the basket slide down to the bottom during the drying process. Hard lesson learnt, always keep the basket in the up position, as advice by Mark. I think there is a notch in the up position that prevent the basket from sliding down.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Small update:

 

As you may all know, another forum member (DJT2) kindly offered to send me his old basket, since he had bought a new one. I can gladly say it arrived today!  :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:

 

Extremely well packaged, it is a very nice basket, although it is not perfectly copmatible with my Elma: the basket holder on my machine is 1mm smaller in diameter, so that the teeth do not catch the hooks on the basket. This is no problem, though, since DJT2 was so kind to include also the basket holder, so it was just a matter of removing the old one and installing the "new" one.

 

The basket holder bore for the spinning stem is 1mm larger in diameter too, but I could fix it with the screw that serves to block it in place, so now it is properly installed. While spinning, the basket wobbles a tiny bit, since it is not perfectly centered, but I do not mind at all: the wobbling is so minimal it won't cause any problem.

 

Once again, I would like to thank DJT2 (Dave) for sending me the basket for free!!! Thanks pal, I really appreciated it. If anything I can do for you horologically related, just ask ;)

Edited by GeorgeClarkson
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And here it is:

 

elma_21.jpg

 

The basket now fits perfectly:

 

elma_23.jpg

 

This is the original basket holder:

 

elma_26.jpg

 

As you can see from the picture below, it is probably a newer model compared to what DJT2 sent me:

 

elma_25.jpg

 

But I do prefer it like that: it looks more the part with the age of the cleaning machine...

 

Again, thanks DJT2 ;)

 

And now, only the lids for the jars are missing...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

OK - I'm jealous, I want a blue basket!!! Mine is boring grey.

:D

Top tip: If you ever need more of the little baskets (you can never have enough IMO) then I usually buy them from this guy - quarter of the price of Cousins:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Siebkapsel-z-B-fur-Elma-Reinigungsmaschinen-/141412294943?pt=Uhrmacherwerkzeug&hash=item20ecd4611f

Follow your advise and ordered some. Nice quality. Absolute worth the money.

Thx !!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have a question for those who worked on elma's electronic parts. It seems my machine have problem with setting time - when I start program it should by default spin for about 3.5min and then change jar to next one. And if I want to extend time I should use timer knob to set time.  But for some reason it spins forever untill I use start switch to move it forward (mine is automatic). Do you have any idea what can be wrong? I susspect timer maybe. In the same time I would like to improove my device and add speed control, but I cant indentify component which is used - there are bad pictures on the internet - is it standard resistor with knob? I have asked elma support but they can help me with that, but they provided electrical diagram fro RM90 (also automatic) so at least I have something to start with :).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • These are all American movements (with the exception of the "Rubis"), and are all almost certainly "negative set" which means the stem is part of the case. So it's normal that they are all missing- they are with their cases. You will need male square bench keys to wind/disarm them. Vintagewatchstraps has a great writeup on the different systems. But basically, any American "x" size movement will fit any case for that size, possibly with some adjusting of the stem position. With Swiss movements, there is some interchangeability between calibers, usually within the same maker's range, but not really overall- there are thousands of different stems out there.
    • Hi, I'm very new to watchmaking and this is my first time posting here.  I've bought a lot of 10 vintage pocket watches size 0s from e-bay and just got them today.  Most of the balance wheels sprung quite freely and thus seemed like a worthy endeavor as a first batch for exploration.  I've just realized that none of them have any winding stems. Is there any way I could source appropriate winding stems for the movements? There seems to be assortments of various stems selling in bulk on aliexpress, but would any of them fit?  I've read on other threads that some people lathe their own stems (which is waaaay out of my current skill set, which is pretty much nil). Others say that you 'just have to try a few and see if they fit'. I would much appreciate any advice for this matter. Thanks!
    • Nice work.  In the last year, I have been servicing Accutron 218s.  I have the official Accutron hoder that provides electrical contact to the movement.  It is a pretty clever design.  There is a cut in the ring of the holder (shaped like a "C").  When in relaxed state, the holder is slightly smaller than the watch movement.  You spread the cut slightly and drop the movement in and release.  Very clean.  I have made 3D versions of this setup.  Have not explored using it generally for other movements.
    • Double Oooooo   Removal tool? Dreamed of one of these. However, Kalle on Chronoglide showed everyone my system with the pegwood. Worked a treat. Felt so chuffed to be mentioned. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTFrXjiyGKc 46:40 for the wheel removal. Mentions me at 50:00 and does the removal with the pegwood. Felt like my 15 minutes of fame.  
    • Sirius. Thank you for helping others with that information. This is why this forum is so good.
×
×
  • Create New...