New lathe coming

[jdrichard]

Just picked this up, Boley Leinen. Anyone know how to adjust the collet holding tail piece.

 

 

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[Tudor]

Maybe I can help but I don't fully understand what you're asking-

Do you want to know how to close a collet in the headstock, or one in the tailstock?

For the former, it appears the drawbar is there- with the large reddish-brown (bakelite?) hand wheel on it. For the latter, I don't know. My experience is that the tailstock will have a Morse taper internally.

Your third photo appears to be the index for the tailstock- so it can be moved toward the headstock a known distance. (my guess anyway)

My first-hand experience is on larger lathes, but the Hardinge Super-Precision is generally used with headstock collets and in that case a similar drawbar draws the collets into the headstock. (they also have a hand-lever option so the collet tension is set for performing operations on multiple parts, and the collets quickly opened and closed with a known force every time.)

Also on the Hardinge, the tailstock has graduations on the handwheel so the depth of (drilling typically) can be accurately monitored and reproduced (graduated in 0.001" increments on that). I love those Super-Precision lathes... They will hold and repeat within 0.0005" all day long. A pleasure to operate.

[jdrichard]

Maybe I can help but I don't fully understand what you're asking-
Do you want to know how to close a collet in the headstock, or one in the tailstock?
For the former, it appears the drawbar is there- with the large reddish-brown (bakelite?) hand wheel on it. For the latter, I don't know. My experience is that the tailstock will have a Morse taper internally.
Your third photo appears to be the index for the tailstock- so it can be moved toward the headstock a known distance. (my guess anyway)
My first-hand experience is on larger lathes, but the Hardinge Super-Precision is generally used with headstock collets and in that case a similar drawbar draws the collets into the headstock. (they also have a hand-lever option so the collet tension is set for performing operations on multiple parts, and the collets quickly opened and closed with a known force every time.)
Also on the Hardinge, the tailstock has graduations on the handwheel so the depth of (drilling typically) can be accurately monitored and reproduced (graduated in 0.001" increments on that). I love those Super-Precision lathes... They will hold and repeat within 0.0005" all day long. A pleasure to operate.

Thanks. A bit helpful. Really need to understand the indexing function of this headstock.


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[measuretwice]

22 hours ago, Tudor said:

For the former, it appears the drawbar is there- with the large reddish-brown (bakelite?) hand wheel on it. For the latter, I don't know. My experience is that the tailstock will have a Morse taper internally.

on that size, and with the drawbar, the tailstock quill should be for the same collets as the headstock.  A lathe with such a tailstock seems a less common and often expensive feature most watchmakers lathe don't have, so well done JD.   I have 10 and 12mm lathes with this feature but my watchmakers lathes don't so its old school drilling - make a centre with a graver and then drill with a hand held pinvise.

[Tudor]

That’s pretty cool. 

Ive never worked on such a small lathe before.

It seems to me a lot of the techniques would be quite different from conventional machining.

The toolmaker who taught me had a “peck drill” arrangement for the tailstock for small holes. The Morse taper chuck would grab this tool, which was essentially a pin vice. He would bring the tailstock in, and slide the micro chuck in and out on a shaft. This way you could “feel” the pressure. He was drilling some 0.004” diameter holes for an atomizer I had designed... the drills were solid carbide (drilling 316 stainless) and he got a “sliver” which was one of the bits broken under his skin. It literally looked like a sliver but hurt a lot more!

[measuretwice]

 

1 hour ago, Tudor said:

It seems to me a lot of the techniques would be quite different from conventional machining

for sure, but its still machining.  When I started working on watch parts coming from larger lathes, the size at first seems intimidating, i.e. turning a .004" dia pivot.   The equalizer is magnification and hand held tools.  Hunched over turning with a loupe, that minuscule thing is like working on a 3/4" bar on your Hardinge.  Not that I'm super experienced, and it is different, but you don't need the super hero suit . 

Work by hand is kind of fun, I made 1/8" tall wine goblet out of brass for one the kids - the free had turning reminds of wood turning.  I used that same hand technique turning on my DSG recently as shown in the Schaublin parts thread, so the techniques can be used in the macro world as well

 

1 hour ago, Tudor said:

He would bring the tailstock in, and slide the micro chuck in and out on a shaft. This way you could “feel” the pressure.

 

A .004" thou hole is small, I like the arrangement for hand feeding it....replicates what JD's tailstock will do. 
 

[jdrichard]

on that size, and with the drawbar, the tailstock quill should be for the same collets as the headstock.  A lathe with such a tailstock seems a less common and often expensive feature most watchmakers lathe don't have, so well done JD.   I have 10 and 12mm lathes with this feature but my watchmakers lathes don't so its old school drilling - make a centre with a graver and then drill with a hand held pinvise.

This is what i was trying to avoid


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[RCDesign]

Just put a collet in with a piece of brass (or anything with a smooth surface), take a measurement to your  tailstock, turn 10 "clicks" on the dial, measure the difference, divide by 10 = viola you have your scale!
I have never seen this feature - would be very nice to have!

[jdrichard]

Just put a collet in with a piece of brass (or anything with a smooth surface), take a measurement to your  tailstock, turn 10 "clicks" on the dial, measure the difference, divide by 10 = viola you have your scale!
I have never seen this feature - would be very nice to have! [emoji4]

So i think that once you set the scale that you manually push the drill, or other bit that is in the tailpiece, toward the piece being drilled until it hits the indexed calliper???


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[Tudor]

Nice! Looks like a micrometer head.

If it's Swiss, it'll be in MM. If it's American, it'll be in Inches.

You can just put an indicator against the tailstock and bring it in one "click" (although it probably doesn't actually click) at a time and compare the scale on the barrel to the indicator reading.

25.4mm to the inch exactly.

[jdrichard]

Nice! Looks like a micrometer head.
If it's Swiss, it'll be in MM. If it's American, it'll be in Inches.
You can just put an indicator against the tailstock and bring it in one "click" (although it probably doesn't actually click) at a time and compare the scale on the barrel to the indicator reading.
25.4mm to the inch exactly.

I think the gauge simply stops the tailstock pushrod from moving forward. Then you adjust and it will stop at the right mark.

Also put the lathe on a stand with a Countershaft


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[Tudor]

I would guess, you can touch off your bit on your work and set zero. Then dial in the exact depth of cut you want and peck in to the stop. 

For through holes it won’t matter but if you are doing a counterbore for example, it matters a lot!

[jdrichard]

I would guess, you can touch off your bit on your work and set zero. Then dial in the exact depth of cut you want and peck in to the stop. 
For through holes it won’t matter but if you are doing a counterbore for example, it matters a lot!

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[jriser]

Leinen also supplied those micrometer tailstocks on the Henry Paulson lathes that they made.  The scale is in mm.  To use it, I set the micrometer to zero, insert the required drill in the tailstock (held by drill chuck or collet), slide the drill tip against the surface of the metal to be drilled, slide the stop ring up to the back side of the micrometer and tighten the set screw.  This stops the slide movement at the "zero" thereby setting the surface of the metal to be drilled.  Next I turn the micrometer to the desired depth of the hole to be drilled.  From now on, I can drill as many holes as I want at the desired depth.  Picture is of my Paulson lathe.

Jim

[nickelsilver]

The tailstock in the OP is a Paulson. All the Paulsons had the curvy phenolic knob, all the Leinens had brass. Doesn't really matter, as they are all Leinen regardless of name, and the tailstocks will line up on any Leinen WW lathe (one of the very nice things about Leinen)- as long as they have the straight black locking levers. Earlier Leinens had a very slightly different bed profile, these are spotted by more ornate non-black locking levers.

[LittleWatchShop]

On 9/19/2018 at 5:47 AM, nickelsilver said:

and the tailstocks will line up on any Leinen WW lathe

Hey I just acquired a Paulson without a tailstock.  Got it cheap.  Don't need it but I have an addiction.  Anyway, I was gonna search for a tailstock.  Based on your comment from 2018, any Paulson or Leinen tailstock should line up.  Correct??

[nickelsilver]

49 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Hey I just acquired a Paulson without a tailstock.  Got it cheap.  Don't need it but I have an addiction.  Anyway, I was gonna search for a tailstock.  Based on your comment from 2018, any Paulson or Leinen tailstock should line up.  Correct??

Yes- just make sure it's the right vintage (see above about locking levers).