Guys I just received a Master model cleaner and I am going to have to completely rewire the machine. I would like to convert it to a mastermatic be replacing the forward and reverse switch with a time relay circuit. Has anyone done this and if so any guidance would amazing. Thanks.
Hi fellow watch enthusiasts, I hope you are keeping safe & well.
Having tinkered for a while, and completed the second of Mark's on-line course, I'm taking the plunge and undertaking a full dismantle, clean and reassemble of an old 1960's Tissot Seastar. As a result I have two questions, if I may.
I read somewhere, that I should not subject the pallet fork to the harsh cleaning fluids, as it may damage the delicate End Stones. Is this accurate and correct and are there any other components that I should not put in the harsh cleaning fluid..?
In addition, I've managed to secure a NOS replacement main spring. I'm assuming that as its been sitting around for a good while it will need lubricating. It there a method of lubricating the main spring without the need to unfurl it from the temporary housing it comes in, or once inserted into the barrel..?
Greetings folks. I've been working on watches as a hobby for about 20 years now. I started out on pocket watches and have never cleaned a clock. In fact, I had a great cleaning machine, with the big jars, and a few other clock tools, that I gave away to an aspiring clock guy over at the Tascione site. But I digress...
Nearly 20 years ago I bought a Hamilton model 21 ship's chronometer. It's an early one, pre 400 serial number, and is a thing of beauty, as these generally are. Back when I got it, I had a professional service it for me. It was done well, but wasn't cheap. $400-500, IIRC. I used to display it in my living room and run it occasionally just to hear the escapement and marvel it its accuracy. From about 2009 to 2014 it sat in my storage unit, waiting for new digs. In 2014 I wound it up and it took off running. I let it run down and then put it away for a couple of years. When I pulled it out, I discovered that it had a broken balance pivot. While originally I thought someone had knocked it over and wasn't copping to it, but now, after inspecting the upper pivot's wear, I don't think that's the case.
After botching the first staff I got trying to replace the hub, I set it aside again for the past couple of years. The way I broke the staff was I overestimated how deep the hollowness went in my hollow punch that I was using to tap it on. It bottomed out in the punch and destroyed the pivot.
Now that I'm finally over that disappointment, I decided to give it another go. I bought a staff that already had the hub installed. I may have to polish the lower pivot, as it doesn't seem to want to set in the hole jewel properly. I'm in the process of verifying all of this. I had to tear down the chronometer at least to the point where I could check to see if the broken part of the pivot was impeding the staff from setting properly. The hole jewel is clear.
I'm doing the best I can to do it right, and get it running again. I won't be running it, but want it running just in case I should decide to sell it. Otherwise the value drops quite a bit. Since I have it completely torn down now, I might as well clean and oil it. Does anyone have a hot tip on the best cleaning solutions for cleaning these chronometers? I'd like to use something that will cross over and work for my cleaning of watches as well. I have both an ultrasonic and the small L&R mechanical. I have one more fresh batch of cleaner and rinse, petroleum, no-water, formula. Should I use that, or make, or get, something new? Any tips for oil and grease types to get me by? Any suggestions are appreciated.
I do have the Manual for the movement.
I know that this is risky business, my working on this chrono, but I just can't afford to spend another $500 to get it running. Plus, I heard that if you're going to run these, you've got to spend this $500 or so to service them every few years. That is not going to happen. Feedback, suggestions, warnings, tips, etc., are all welcome. Many thanks. Cheers.
Hello, I could not fint any answer to this on any other thread.
Im using Isopropyl alcohol for the last step of hand cleaning movements. However i can not find a good way to throw used liquid away. How do you do it, I know that the liquid will turn into gas eventually however since i fill a small jar there is always going to come times when i need to throw it away. Where do i throw it?
How do you do it?
Thanks in advance, Jakob
Hi to you all,
I was wondering, if you use a regular ultrasonic instead of a watch cleaning machine. How would you rinse your parts? And how many times? In which solutions?
I always cleaned my parts in the ultra sonic with a solution and rinsed the parts in benzine( that's the way an old watchmaker learned me) but i've found out that very often this does not give me the results i was hoping for. Can I perhaps get little jars with a rinse solution and run those in the ultra sonic?
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Which as you wrote them are the same part numbers. Now, I had answered this before, but can do that again it here. Tecnically speaking there is no designation such 7S26 and no letter. Since its introduction, Seiko has placed a letter at the end, that is A, B, or C in chronological order of introduction. When someone refers to 7S26 and no letter, in a technical context that can introduce ambiguity. To help on the matter I have summarized all these changes is a document, here's it again: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sYt_mI9c4tAPiKN3IM8lQx3NEEOyz2DMjVHx5I1_Mqw/htmlview Just go on Ebay or the Internet and search for the P/N detailed in the document above. You may need to add or omit both the leading zero and the separating dot in order to get all matches. Note, you can be asked ridiculous prices for either new or used individual parts. The best approach is to get a complete mov't or watch for cheap, and use it as a source of parts. No it is not, and the notes in my document explain why.