Early 60's Elgin 10K Shockmaster. I suppose one of their attempts at water proofing a watch (see the crystal and gasket in the second picture). The question is how to get the crown off (Its wobbly when pulled out to the set position and I am certain it contains a gasket) so I can remove the movement? Dis-assemble the keyless works in place so I can grab the stem and unscrew the crown?? Thanks.
I am working on a vintage watch and the crown of the watch is fitted with a hidden type gasket which is
in terrible condition and needs to be replaced.
However, I found it difficult to pull the gasket out with my tweezers or tooth pick.
Could anyone recommend an easier way to remove this kind of gasket from the crown??
I forgot to take a photo of the crown so I attached a similar example I found on the web.
Good afternoon everyone. I have finally taken apart my wife's grandfathers Timex watch, which has a 24 movement. I have several questions:
1. The stem is really sloppy, what can cause that?
2. What is the best way to clean this movement. I do not have a machine so it will be done manually.
3. Where can I get a crystal? Is there a place to buy them if I measure it?
Thank you for all of your help.
Is there a proper way to remove a stem from a DG3804B so as not to booger the keyless works?. I have removed movements before, replaced crystals and replaced hands and never had an issue with stems until now.
I was building my first GMT and was not able to get stem back in! I had to rebuild the keyless works a real pain. I'm hesitant to try to remove stem again.
I think it should be in the 'hand setting' position and perhaps ever so gently press on the release until it just lets go. I'm guessing to much pressure allows the winding pinion to slide out of place.
Any advise perhaps Mark can do a video on this issue? My current plan to to leave stem in, trim it, then use extended so as not to even remove the stem (not best solution) just a real pain to fix the keyless works.
Hello I'm starting to service a vintage zenith with 2572PC movement in it.
First problem is I can't seem to find a way to release the winder.
This apperas to be the simplest type of relese system as a push down bolt is easily spotted.
The point is it just doesn't release and this is where doubts come in...
Am I missing something?
In the attached image I'm trying to show what is unexpected to my unexperienced eyes.
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Dont know the longevity of watch straps as I have many watches and wear them at infrequent intervals but I can tell you about leather as I'm into leather as well as watches and I've made belts, wallets, bags, watch straps, purses etc. There are many different kinds of leather with the most durable and hardest to cut being stingray which also is the most expensive. I dulled a blade cutting 1 watch strap then there is alligator, croco, caiman, buffalo, cow, pig etc. and there are many different ways of tanning the leather. Tanneries can tan the same leather and produce soft or hard leather, leather with a grain etc. Full grain leather is the whole thickness of the leather and is the best. Top grain is the top layer of the leather after it has been split to make it thinner and produces the top grain and suede then there are the various fakes starting with PU leather which utilizes the suede left over from making top grain leather. They basically coat the suede with polyurethane to make it look like leather. If you ever bought a cheap belt and after a month it cracked on the top layer this is what you have. The suede part will hold up but the PU part cracked. then there is leatherette and another form of leather where they take the scraps, grind them up and combine with a glue and I think they call this genuine leather. A leather watch strap that is sewn together would be made from top grain leather on top or alligator or whatever and on the bottom a softer, more comfortable leather such as pigskin. Pigskin can last many years, I have a shoe lined with pigskin that I have for about 20 yrs. I put 5-7km on it daily and its lasted.
Hello everyone, I have a quick question on the video i referenced above. At the end Mark discussion about dynamic poising. He shows seven different positions results but at the end he just has three which is dial up, Pendant Down and Pendant forward(which im assuming is pendant up). My question is are you only supposed to adjust the watch in other positions to ultimately have these three positions the only ones that matter? Other question is what are the most important positions you should adjust for when it comes to wrist watches and pocket watches? I think I might be spending way to much time worrying about adjusting other positions on watch when i really dont have to be. I also know it all depends on the type of watch but if someone could give me like their general rules when it comes to this that would be great. Thanks
I have this Hamilton 974 pocket watch. It is running strong however the minute hand move stops at 12:05 everytime it is set at 12 o'clock (the watch keeps running after the hand stops). I've replaced the cannon pinion, and the center wheel (center wheel was a tiny bit bent which I thought was the problem). I've watched it running and all of the train wheels are moving but the hands are still stopped. Any ideas?
I don't have the tool with me unfortunately but I think all that was there is pictured. I think it is just whatever cutting tool that is described in the images that is missing. The top part of the Mimo tool is separate to the lower part which is labelled 1CR1, and the top part rotates freely on the base. The red balance wheel holders are then placed on the top of the tool. The first image in the patent is a vertical cross section through the two parts of tool, illustrating the bearing surfaces.