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New Video Uploaded Regarding Hairspring Manipulation


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Mark, I just watched the video. I can't thank you enough for it. I do have a question regarding reassembly of the hairspring in the wheel. If I don't have a jeweling or a stacking tool, is there anything else I can use to attach the hairspring to the balance wheel?

 

Thank you in advance for your answer. I enjoyed both videos soooo much and what is most important, I've learned immensely! Thank you again!

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By the way Mark, do we absolutely need a staking tool or similar to reassemble the hairspring on the wheel? I'm working my hairsprings as per your videos but with the wheel still attached for lack of the tool.

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By the way Mark, do we absolutely need a staking tool or similar to reassemble the hairspring on the wheel? I'm working my hairsprings as per your videos but with the wheel still attached for lack of the tool.

 

For what it's worth, I use my staking tool  for a multitude of  jobs, on a daily basis. Also the jewelling tool. 

Even though their names relate to specific tasks, they are invaluable to sometimes do obscure tasks.......

Both are available on Ebay for little money occasionally.

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When refitting the hairspring , does it need to go in a particular place or do you just press it back on ?

I notice Mark didn't mention any special instructions when he removed and replaced it, I am looking to have a go myself but just wanted to check first

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Before you remove the hair spring you should make a note of where the stud sits in relation to the impulse jewel as this is essentially what governs whether or not the balance is in beat.

Either make a sketch or what I do is to make a tiny dot on the rim of the balance with a fine OHP dry pen where the stud is (dry pen is great as it just wipes off when you're done).

 

When you reassemble just make sure that the stud sits exactly where it did before, that way, assuming that the balance was in beat before you started it should still be in beat when you're done.

 

The same applies when it comes to adjusting beat error at the collet (if the hair spring stud location is fixed an not adjustable).

With all main spring tension removed and the balance at rest, sight from the pallet fork pivot to the balance pivot and see where the impulse pin sits. It should be exactly on the line between the two pivots. If not then dot the rim of the balance (dry pen) at the point where a line projected from the balance pivot through the impulse pin would intersect the rim (in other words the point on the rim which would also be on the line between the two pivots if the balance was in beat).

At the same time you also need to dot the rim where the pivot line actually crosses it.

Now when you remove the balance to adjust the orientation of the hair spring at the collet you have a fairly good indication of how far and in which direction the stud needs to move.

I hope that makes sense (I should have drawn a picture, video is beyond me).

 

I actually do all of that with only the balance on the main plate before removing the pivot jewels prior to cleaning. That way I get a much clearer line of sight with everything else out of the way, and any residue from the dry pen that doesn't get wiped off is washed away in the cleaner.

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The spring does have to go back in exactly the same place on the shaft. If not you will have a job In hand setting the beat and correct timing.

 

 

In the next video I will show you a VERY easy way of finding where to position the hairspring should you have not recorded the position before removing. After some practice you could find that the watch is perfectly in beat with no further adjustment (but not always) :)

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Mark, I can't wait for the next video! I already used your technique to fix a watch hairspring and it is working wonderfully! I only, didn't remove the hairspring from the wheel so this 3rd installment video will be like the best thing to me right now to happen in watchmaking!

 

PS. A staking tool is on its way now to take full advantage of what I'm learning here.

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In the next video I will show you a VERY easy way of finding where to position the hairspring should you have not recorded the position before removing. After some practice you could find that the watch is perfectly in beat with no further adjustment (but not always) :)

...I can't wait. I've managed to de mangle a hairspring, but I only want to put it back on once...

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  • 3 months later...

Hi,

   Several weeks ago a friend brought me several watches he wanted repaired. One was a Seiko 6309 that was badly rusted, so much so that it was impossible to remove the stem as the keylessworks were rusted and frozen. Just returned that to him yesterday running well. Last night I started on another which was an Invicta with a badly bent hairspring. I'm not sure how it got bent as badly as it was. Wish I had taken pictures but I didn't. Anyway before removing the balance you could see that the hairspring outer coil was bent at about 90 degrees away from the center and then curved back toward the regulator arm with about two more dramatic bends along the way. Normally I would have just started looking for a donor on ebay. Last night though I thought what do I have to lose and gave straightening the spring a try. I did not want to remove the spring from the balance because it did not have the split collet and I was afraid that I would not be able to tell exactly where to reposition it if I got it fixed. Also I had to keep setting it back on the balance cock to check how I was doing as I manipulated the spring. To allow me to work on the spring I placed the balance on an old dial with the bottom of the staff going through the hole in the center and then used rodico to hold it in place. After I removed the balance and secured it I noticed that the hairspring actually was bent about 90 degrees away from center then curved back so that if then came back and ran almost through the center position, a real mess. Anyway I started working and eventually I got close. Took it loose and checked it on the balance cock and saw where I had to do some more bending. After about three more times of manipulation and checking I decided to reattach things and see how it looked. Thing started ticking as soon as I got it in place. Set the time on the watch about 4 hours ago and so far it is dead on.

   Thank you Mark for showing how to work on these very delicate springs and also thanks to whoever was talking about the boom arm microscopes as I don't think this sort of work could be done as easily without one.

 

Charles K 

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This video was incredibly helpful Mark!  I have been diagnosing a hairspring issue (not sitting flat) on an FHF96.  What I initially thought to be a stud that was set at the incorrect depth, turns out to be a hairspring with the same issue as the one in Mark's video, albeit not such a drastic bend.  I also examined the balance, staff and hairspring under a stereo microscope I borrowed from work.  What an incredible inspection tool that is!  I'll have to tackle the straightening of the hairspring this week.  Fingers crossed this rookie doesn't end up with over-cooked spaghetti ;) .

Thanks for taking the time to create the video Mark!

Roger 

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