British School of Watchmaking Course
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By nevenbekriev · Posted
When a newbie starts to put His fingers in a clock movement, if the clock starts to tick, then the newbie's heart is full of joy, He is inpatient and wakes at night to check if the clock is still ticking... A ticking clock or watch is like a man that breaths and has pulse. And this doesn't mean that that man is healthy and able to do work. The same with the clock - if it ticks and even to the end of power reserve, this still means nothing and doesn't guarantee timekeeping at all. And the main parameter of a clock or watch health is the amplitude. As You didn't mention anything about amplitude, I guessed that it may be You case too... Yes, the amplitude is measured by degrees of rotation of the balance wheel against it's 'zero' or neutral position. And a table with the amplitude will have one additional column, for the amplitude. Actually, I don't need this table, but just to know if the amplitude is good enough or bad, at least when the main spring is fully wound. Good will mean above 250 degr., and all less than 180 will mean too bad. Yes, the guard pin and safety roller are what is shown and they would never touch when the balance swings. If they touch, this leads to friction and amplitude loss. Yes, the gap with the arrow is 0 and it is a real problem, but it is true only when the string is in horizontal position, and I believe that the picture has been taken exactly in such position. In vertical position, which is normal for the balance, the mass of the balance wheel must straighten the hairspring in a manner that the balance will hang on the spring and neither the bottom of the tube, nor it's top will touch the limits. This is easy to check - try to lift or lower the balance along the string and You must see that it is possible and actually it hangs on the spring... As I understand, You didn't disassemble the movement and cleaned it in whole. No, this is wrong, as all the abrasive particles that got in the bearings with the dust and as wear product will stay there, and the old hardened oil can not be fully removed. The main springs can not be cleaned at all this way too. Sometimes such cleaning leads to stop of the movement again in about one month, and sometimes leads to very fast wear of the bearings. -
Thanks for all your input, and particularly the information on the crystal lift. i guess it would otherwise be a pretty entertaining post for everyone but me. 😄 this is why I've learned to be patient now in my watch learning journey and not resort to sudden knee jerk reaction type of solution. I don't think i'll attempt to pry the ring off. My local watchmaker is a certified swatch group service branch, i've taken many swatch group watches to them for service already ie. Omega, Longines, Hamilton etc. I guess this will just be one more piece.
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as I'm reviewing the discussion this is exactly what I was thinking. You look at the front of the watch you look at the opening in the back and the fronts definitely bigger than the back at least by the pictures. I don't think I've ever seen in a screw on bezel at least like this. I'm pretty sure you'll have to pry the ring off to get the whole thing off. They do make special tools for this though if you can't get something conveniently underneath it. one of the unfortunate problems of Swatch group products are we don't have access to a Swatch group database because otherwise if we had a case number we can look up the casing information and get all kinds of nifty information but somebody has to have Swatch group access. I look forward to the crystal lift idea make sure you get a video for us we all could use a laugh. Well you're not going to be laughing as your crystal is going to disintegrate so is the bezel and not can be a pretty picture at all crystal lifts are only for acrylic crystals plastic the flexible. I'm guessing that's probably a sapphire crystal and sapphire does not bend to come out it was pressed in. The bezel ring has to be pried off carefully would be my guess.
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Date complication on my Seiko Kinetic is retro. Right, I couldn't find a Cobel whose caliber designation starts with G, all seem to start with C or CB . Didn't buy it anyway, description by the seller said automatic, turned out to be quartz. Rgds
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