Jump to content

My Timekeeping


Gary

Recommended Posts

A .99 cent purchase . Guy said it needed a battery. Hmmm. Just a wind.

Don't think my photo is showing up? Will investigate further. Photo size may exceed limits. Anyway...99 cent Marvin from late 40's. Great piece. This is my first post and I'm looking forward to being here. I really want to be able to clean and work on my watches.

Photos to come !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for the kind welcome. Actually I have another Marvin from that vendor and as they both work they are losing 3-5 minutes a day. I will be glad when I can disassemble and reassemble with nice cleaning and lubrication.  I am reading as much as possible and look forward to the next post!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today! Gains about 30 seconds a day. In need of a cleaning.

30 seconds is not too bad at all. The cleaning may remedy that. I've got two of my repairs under observation to try to get them regulated for optimal performance. Right now one is within 1 minute from quartz timie, and the other goes from 3 to 5 minutes off AFTER cleaning and oiling. I guess I would be OK with 30 seconds to 1 minute deviations per 24 hrs--yup.

JC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One of the Stargate Seikos I restored starter gaining about 10 min a day after cleaning and all. I thought being a Stargate it was giving me the time in another planet! :) When I looked closely there was a drop of oil shorting the hairspring. Once I cleaned the whole balance and re lubed, it started working fine....

 

So maybe on both cases, it is just the hairspring coils touching!

Edited by bobm12
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

marvin's are great value...you will usually find the movements marked 3 adj or 5 adj. This means that they left the factory with additional work done to ensure that the run accurately!. Practically chronograph grade.

 

Also they are a true manufacturer and I have not come across any ebauches..(mechanism made by other companies like ETA, AS, FEF, FHF, ST) so they are quite high quality.

 

Be careful not to drop it as most of them date from the fifties and do not have any shock-protection at all.

 

Anil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
    • The one thing I took time over was to round and polish the curves at the bottom of the jumper arm. The slightest mark (left over from cutting of filing) acts as a stress raiser, just where you don't need it. 
    • I printed the base and it is a bit too large to fit on the base of the hand setter. The ring bumps into the column so it is unable to full seat on the central ring. I'm going to try removing some of the materal and see if I can't get it to go down.
×
×
  • Create New...