Jump to content

Hello, I'm new


KelSolaar

Recommended Posts

Don't give up the day job just yet! Learn the skills for sure, then go freelance in IT (if not already), hopefully just pick the more enjoyable nice well paid IT contracts, balance one against the other. If you are freelance and operate the watch and IT from one company, perhaps training, tools of the trade etc, claim back VAT on purchases, courses. Hopefully this gives you a more secure future and a good work/life balance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Dan, I`m near Southampton. Good wishes for the career change but go slowly and carefully.  Mark is a very good and experienced Watch repairer. I do it for a hobby and  have received very some in depth  training from a now departed Geneve trained friend many years ago. A good start. However,  I only very occasionally  put it into practice until I sold my electronics business and retired and  I am Not a watchmaker, I call myself a Jobber Fixer. What the market is like for mechanical watches I do not know. Some good modern ones are sometimes badge engineered and are expensive. Most repairs will be Quartz and no doubt mainly batteries although there is a lot more to fixing a quartz watch than just fitting a battery. The mechanical watches I repair are mainly vintage ones from people who will not pay for  professional repairs. They are sometimes in use and sometimes they have been in a drawer for 25 years. There is little professional outside help forthcoming except from this fine forum where both very knowledgeable and experienced people will be found. As regards a new career in watch repair you must survey the market yourself and I give you my good wishes in all areas. Best regards, Mike.  PS, Vacherin offers sound business advice.

Edited by ecodec
Extra information.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you folks for taking the time to respond, sage advice no doubt and I take on board all that's been said especially detailed response from ecodec there.

I have started Mark's course now, which is so far very easy to follow. I've ordered some essential products online, compared to automotive tools for example things are comparatively cheap, which is nice. I suppose size has a bearing on that.

On a side note - I contacted both the British School of Watchmaking and the BHI by email (one does distance learning which is not what I'd call ideal) and have heard nothing for about 2 weeks. I had heard other people online mentioned a similar lack of communication.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...