Jump to content

watch stops with residual power


Recommended Posts

Hello. I am a hobbyist watch fan. I have recently serviced my Molnija pocket watch with caliber 3602(hand-wound movement).

Watch was back in wonderful state (shown in photos) and ran roughly 40 hours during first day of test.

After couple of days, I noticed that the watch stops after running about 30 hours although it was wound fully.

I opened it up to check what went wrong and surprised to see that mainspring had substantial amount of power remaining.

I guess the mainspring had about 10 hours of power left. What do you think had stopped the watch? Please help. 

 

20180411_065206 (1).jpg

20180411_064802 (1).jpg

20180411_070927.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, east3rn said:

Hello. I am a hobbyist watch fan. I have recently serviced my Molnija pocket watch with caliber 3602(hand-wound movement).

Watch was back in wonderful state (shown in photos) and ran roughly 40 hours during first day of test.

After couple of days, I noticed that the watch stops after running about 30 hours although it was wound fully.

I opened it up to check what went wrong and surprised to see that mainspring had substantial amount of powimageproxy.php?img=&key=77f0dcc5ac0f9d5bimageproxy.php?img=&key=77f0dcc5ac0f9d5ber remaining.

I guess the mainspring had about 10 hours of power left. What do you think had stopped the watch? Please help. 

 

20180411_065206 (1).jpg

20180411_064802 (1).jpg

20180411_070927.jpg

 

13 minutes ago, Chopin said:

Does it stop and no longer starts at all ? If you wiggle it around lightly does it start working again ?

I tried shaking it but it won't run... any solutions? I think mainspring is the problem. I am considering lubricating it again. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

In agreement with the above, I had this exact same thing happen on a movement after rebuilding the balance and cock, put it in beat and regulated it, (so I thought), then found after re casing it that it wouldn't run well once the spring had wound down a little and manually checked the impulse pin, it was way out despite the timegrapher initially looking OK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...