Jump to content

Pin Pallet Beat

Pip

By Pip
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Pip WRT Addict

Pip

Posted
Posted

Hi chaps,

I've cleaned up a Smiths Empire pin pallet that is now gleaming wonderfully. It was half working before I dismantled it, now it is only 1/10th working... and the issue is that on removing the balance I damaged the hairspring, I've repaired the damage but can't seem to get it to do more than about a minute of running, and you can noticeably watch the amplitude drop. Now I'm not too scabby at cleaning and rebuilding, but I am much more used to working with 'normal' swiss lever escapements as I am usually working on my Seiko's. But I do like to try different things out of interest too.

So, has anyone got a simple(ish) guide to pinning and beating a HS/balance on a PP movement? Apologies I've just realised I don't have any photos the balance in the watch, will take some tomorrow as I'm at work now and out tonight. I've added a photo of the balance after I took it out prior to cleaning and reshaping the HS; is the arrow pointing to where it should be pinned? Also, my work last night seemed to be that when I pushed the pin (correct term?) to hold the HS in place it pushed a lot more HS through the gate (term?) each time. Is this normal?

41520531272_899d05de6e_b_d.jpg

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

The pivots on these pocket watches need to have a sharp point. I used to re-point them in my lathe using an arkansas stone with a drop of oil. You need to make sure the cups are good as they wear on the inside and can be very rough. You should be able to get an estimate where to pin by refitting the balance and threading the hairspring so the impulse pin is in the centre of the pallet fork.

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Deggsie WRT Addict

Deggsie

Posted
Posted
Hi chaps,
I've cleaned up a Smiths Empire pin pallet that is now gleaming wonderfully. It was half working before I dismantled it, now it is only 1/10th working... and the issue is that on removing the balance I damaged the hairspring, I've repaired the damage but can't seem to get it to do more than about a minute of running, and you can noticeably watch the amplitude drop. Now I'm not too scabby at cleaning and rebuilding, but I am much more used to working with 'normal' swiss lever escapements as I am usually working on my Seiko's. But I do like to try different things out of interest too.
So, has anyone got a simple(ish) guide to pinning and beating a HS/balance on a PP movement? Apologies I've just realised I don't have any photos the balance in the watch, will take some tomorrow as I'm at work now and out tonight. I've added a photo of the balance after I took it out prior to cleaning and reshaping the HS; is the arrow pointing to where it should be pinned? Also, my work last night seemed to be that when I pushed the pin (correct term?) to hold the HS in place it pushed a lot more HS through the gate (term?) each time. Is this normal?
41520531272_899d05de6e_b_d.jpg&key=10c34cae46c6e468f821bc6287aa783e8e5f566017933a9c65729157a3785f0b
Thanks.

Hi pip. Your hair spring is really not correct, but that would (should) not stop a pin pallet movement, rather just make it awful at keeping good time. I’ll post an exemplary hair spring profile next - something I so desperately reach out for [emoji3]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Deggsie WRT Addict

Deggsie

Posted
Posted

Hi pip. Your hair spring is really not correct, but that would (should) not stop a pin pallet movement, rather just make it awful at keeping good time. I’ll post an exemplary hair spring profile next - something I so desperately reach out for [emoji3]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

41966c9c70ca427d41fac5b12d4a3d3b.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Pip WRT Addict

Pip

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 hours ago, Deggsie said:

With some very careful manipulation, time, patience and will - you will achieve a functional hairspring pip


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Remember, I said the picture was from before the HS was worked on... it's much improved from that picture I'm pleased to say! Will try and post a pic tonight.

Oh, and that HS pic you posted - A thing of beauty is a joy forever.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Deggsie WRT Addict

Deggsie

Posted
Posted
Remember, I said the picture was from before the HS was worked on... it's much improved from that picture I'm pleased to say! Will try and post a pic tonight.
Oh, and that HS pic you posted - A thing of beauty is a joy forever.

Ok. Sorry pip, I just re read and you did clearly say it’s before you worked on it. My bad! [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Pip WRT Addict

Pip

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You have done very well. Time will tell when you put it into the movement and pin it. Make sure it is free moving between the
regulator from one end to the other.


I had help from a very experienced watchmaker I’m glad to say, but trying to work out as much as possible without bothering him!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Geotex
      Any tips to correct a sloppy error?

      By Geotex · Posted

      It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
    • mikepilk
      Setting lever spring

      By mikepilk · Posted

      The one thing I took time over was to round and polish the curves at the bottom of the jumper arm. The slightest mark (left over from cutting of filing) acts as a stress raiser, just where you don't need it. 
    • GuyMontag
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I printed the base and it is a bit too large to fit on the base of the hand setter. The ring bumps into the column so it is unable to full seat on the central ring. I'm going to try removing some of the materal and see if I can't get it to go down.
×
×
  • Create New...