Jump to content

Online purchase - Incoming Certina Bristol


Recommended Posts

Its been tough finding good watches at the right prices on ebay the last few years with even crap watches asking silly money. The shipping costs have also escalated sharply, I particularly dislike the added customs charge fee. I have never been charged anything for used watches I have received thru the post and would definitely prefer paying if and when I am charged.

Anyway, if you are careful and know what you're bidding for there are some bargains to be had. I recently bought this Certina Bristol for not much money and I would like to share some hints about what to look for. This is a 25-66 movement and it built inhouse by Certina and while they are not really cheap when fully working, I believe they are undervalued and are really good value for money,

This is the sellers picture about the watch, a bit of patina and the seconds hand is missing. While the seconds hand alone is not a problem, you need to ask yourself why was it not replaced as someone obviously had the back off to get the seconds hand out? One possibility is the tip of the seconds hand may have broken off. While parts for Certina are available this will add unnecessary problems. Looking at the photo again I can see the remnants of the centre-pinion (whitish dot in the middle).

Capture2.JPG.bebb426029169e4ac380d33974839661.JPG

Another pic from the seller. My guess is that the pinion is good.

Capture6.JPG.5ce918dc0df967993a2b4f6d559d83a4.JPG

Moving on to the backside of the watch. Not much to see here except that the previous watch maker was a bit clumsy opening the caseback.

Capture4.JPG.1104dc43197c193161dbdfb5e8dbd06f.JPG

It still has its original crown which is always nice to see!

Capture3.JPG.d8e23afbb5b3e870f76b457969e01064.JPG

The movement looks pretty clean, sometimes the damage patina on the dial can indicate water damage but since the stem is pretty rust free I would say its just the lacquer breaking down. Nice regulator, sign of a quality watch! I bought the watch about a month back, it has arrived at my friends shop .. I need to collect it.

Capture.thumb.JPG.fd140d829aff1a9b7e2198540bae65a1.JPG

Finally the description. The most important is that balance wheel is good. This does not mean there isn't a problem elsewhere.. It could be a broken mainspring or messed up hairspring. Straightforward and to the point. No mention of being rare or collectible , just needs servicing yadda yadda..

Capture5.JPG.b3dab22a6c8aa00e146d0dc473842c75.JPG

Finally check the seller, In this case its YDL Worldstore.. all good!Capture7.thumb.JPG.24cc25d530ecd638f1c4e41a7b575039.JPG

So I made a bid and won it for USD31+USD15 shipping.. Total USD46. What I get will be an interesting watch with a good quality movement that hopefully a COA will bring back to life. I should have a seconds needle in my box of parts but I might need to change the seconds pinion, we'll see about that. Of course there may be other problems like broken train pivots, cracked jewels etc but that's part of the gamble!

I will probably get the watch back this weekend and will post further here. Stay tuned.

Anilv

 

 

 

Edited by anilv
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lucky you it's a 25-66 movement. The second hand wheel is probably broken. But you could still find those wheels pretty easy. They are often broken. Either rust or damage. They are pretty thin and break easily. 

 

Edited by rogart63
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've remained silent on this thread, and at the risk of upsetting everyone, the thing that worries me the most the the apparent absence of Mark. The moderators do a great job and the members also pitch in, and the site seems to run itself, but it is a concern for the future of this forum when the owner is absent for all intents and purposes. Like many of the comments above I would hate to log in one day and things be closed down as I rely on this site for ideas and knowledge and also cheer me up. maybe the Moderators could reach out to him, assuming he does not read this thread, and express our concerns and let us know the plans going forward? some kind of WRT ark
    • That was the exact reason for me starting this thread watchie. Still we haven't worked out how the regulars are going to hook up if it goes tits up. I honestly think something should be arranged to stay in contact, we all help each other so much. 
    • Yeah ive watched that a few times before,  i couldnt find my old school dividers to scribe it up 😅 Yep thats the guy i bought a roll from . Thanks Nicklesilver that answers that perfectly and more or less what i thought an experiment over time would prove . The jumper arm is quite thick along its length, i left it that way intentionally, i thought the original was probably very thin, i didnt see that it was already missing. Setting isn't particularly stiff as such just positive, i still need to take it out and polish where it mates with the stem release. 
    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift. Speaking of watchfix.com I've been postponing the "Level 5: Servicing Chronograph Watches" course for a very, very long time. Anyway, I just enrolled on it so it's going to be very interesting to see the videos. I must say, IMO there's nothing really that can compete with Mark's courses when it comes to presentation and video quality. It's simply world-class and makes me associate with some really expensive BBC productions.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
×
×
  • Create New...