Jump to content

Worn non jewel pivot holes

Danh

By Danh
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Danh WRT Addict

Danh

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys

looking to see if anyone has any advice or any ways of dealing with worn pivot holes. 

Working on a 1885 Kendal & Dent pocket watch, I am fairly certain that pivot hole size relating in lateral play in the train wheels is causing the movement to stop after the main power has started to release from the main spring

Any words of wisdom greatly appreciated

 

thanks

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
StuartBaker104 Distinguished Member

StuartBaker104

Posted
Posted

The correct way to fix this is to broach out the pivot hole, fit a bush then re-establish the hole and oil sink. You will also need to refinish the pivot by filing and burnishing on a jacot tool.

You will most likely find guidance on the net by searching for clock pivot bushing. I know there are better links if you look hard, but here is a quick summary http://www.m-p.co.uk/muk/ryoc/doc_page16.shtml

I know that some would fit a jewel as it’s quicker and easier, and some would try and punch the edges of the hole to close it up. Neither would be my recommended option!

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Danh WRT Addict

Danh

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, StuartBaker104 said:

The correct way to fix this is to broach out the pivot hole, fit a bush then re-establish the hole and oil sink. You will also need to refinish the pivot by filing and burnishing on a jacot tool.

You will most likely find guidance on the net by searching for clock pivot bushing. I know there are better links if you look hard, but here is a quick summary http://www.m-p.co.uk/muk/ryoc/doc_page16.shtml

I know that some would fit a jewel as it’s quicker and easier, and some would try and punch the edges of the hole to close it up. Neither would be my recommended option!

Thank you Stuart - most helpful indeed

Link to comment
Share on other sites
digginstony Super WRT Addict

digginstony

Posted
Posted

In the day, to fit a Bushing or to close the hole with a staking set and broach out both had there advocates, with this type of movement.
Both methods lend themselves to an effective repair, obviously the latter being of far less cost.

Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
measuretwice WRT Addict

measuretwice

Posted
Posted (edited)

isn't it an issue locating the hole properly?  In that the above locates based on the existing hole, but if its worn its a bit elongated so its centre location, that a tool will follow, has changed slightly?

Edited by measuretwice
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
digginstony Super WRT Addict

digginstony

Posted
Posted
isn't it an issue locating the hole properly?  In that the above locates based on the existing hole, but if its worn its a bit elongated so its centre location, that a tool will follow, has changed slightly?
That's why you have to close the hole to less than the diameter of the pivot and broach out, keeping the hole as round as possible. This work is not fine horology. As Oldhippy would say " Its more like Blacksmithing. "
But you can also misalign when Bushing, requires a bit of practice.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
BUSAKAZ WRT Addict

BUSAKAZ

Posted
Posted
isn't it an issue locating the hole properly?  In that the above locates based on the existing hole, but if its worn its a bit elongated so its centre location, that a tool will follow, has changed slightly?

The way to do it is by the means of a D cutter, if the hole has been elongated there will be half of the hole that has been untouched that is where you line up the cutter so the flat side of the cutter is facing the elongated part of the hole then the cutter will be centred correctly if you know what I mean that’s why the cutters like in a jeweling set have a flat face.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
digginstony Super WRT Addict

digginstony

Posted
Posted

Apologies. On the latter method as mentioned I should of said ream out not broach, that's a bit misleading. Also advisable to use a Reamer when setting a new Bushing, rather than a drill bit. The chances of misalignment are greatly reduced.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
BUSAKAZ WRT Addict

BUSAKAZ

Posted
Posted
Apologies. On the latter method as mentioned I should of said ream out not broach, that's a bit misleading. Also advisable to use a Reamer when setting a new Bushing, rather than a drill bit. The chances of misalignment are greatly reduced.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk



Only animals use a drill bit, there certain tools for doing certain jobs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
BUSAKAZ WRT Addict

BUSAKAZ

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys
looking to see if anyone has any advice or any ways of dealing with worn pivot holes. 
Working on a 1885 Kendal & Dent pocket watch, I am fairly certain that pivot hole size relating in lateral play in the train wheels is causing the movement to stop after the main power has started to release from the main spring
Any words of wisdom greatly appreciated
 
thanks
 

What you need is this lot
15e3d951821c564101e1df29fa146509.jpg
48af9e8222a60cd406a7436a2ee46cef.jpg
a988373a878db5bde44ef9fcc8733973.jpg
2f270dbe39048cc6d212d44c89cfa709.jpg
6d83d807826a81c3c6c2449c5dca320e.jpg
81f4c4f430dc61dd46a28a323e500c87.jpg
19d32eba5d4d9223f581057755ef2174.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      As an experiment i was thinking of not hardening it to see how it fairs. Now that i have a complete template i could knock up another in half the time if this loses its elasticity. I might play about with a few pieces today to test their bending and spring properties. This was cs 100 the supplier quoted in annealed state, it was nice to work with files so I'm taking it thats its state. What you are looking seems like it would need annealing to work it. This is why i went for this stuff that cuts out that process, it was so easy to work.
    • dnhb
      Is this a 'hack' ?

      By dnhb · Posted

      Showing state of hairspring on receipt, backplate & 'dished' wheel. 
    • mikepilk
      Setting lever spring

      By mikepilk · Posted

      I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. A search on ebay UK for "spring steel strip cs" finds plenty available in small quantites and thicknesses from 0.1mm up.  But the question is ( @nickelsilver) which "CS" number is best for watch parts ?  Also, from one of the ads : "CARBON SPRING STEEL. SIZE IS METRIC 15.00mm X 0.10mm X 304 MM  CS100 FINISH BRIGHT . HARDENED AND TEMPERD TO 480-530VPN" I've no idea about 480-530VPN. Does that mean it needs annealing before working?       Have you seen this video, he shows how to determine where the indents go ?  
    • Waggy
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By Waggy · Posted

      Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
    • JohnR725
      Omega cal. 565 - low amplitude

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
×
×
  • Create New...