Jump to content

Vintage Omega Geneve Seconds Hand Issue


AdamC

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I have been asked to fix a problem with the stem of an Omega Geneve that wasn't engaging to set the hands and wind. Fair enough, I'm becoming a little more experienced now after six months of tinkering and soon identified that the winding pinion had popped out of its housing and fouling the calendar wheel teeth - presumably someone else had removed the stem before! Anyhow, fiddly but I fixed the problem, reassembled, and everything tested out okay (winds, hands set, and calendar quick set works).

The problem now is that when I fit the second hand it keeps falling off, though while laid flat face up, the second hand moves around the dial normally. I've added a couple of photos, just in case you can spot anything. I must add that I ordered a set of used replacement hands, thinking that the second hand hole (if that's the term) had become worn and too large for the pinion. However, the replacement hand makes no difference. So am I now correct in looking towards pinion wear that's driving the second hand through the cannon pinion? Am I doing anything obviously wrong that you may be able to provide a tip for. I am using a proper Horotec hand fitting tool in an attempt to press the hand fully home, though afraid to exert much force in case I damage anything.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam

20180327_180459647_iOS.jpg

20180327_180440545_iOS.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is likely that the second hand shaft is pushing down so the hand is not fully going onto it.  The second hand pinion is held in mesh by a flat spring which sits on the other end of the shaft.  This needs to be supported when fitting the second hand so that it allows the hand to be fitted without moving down.  This spring can be seen when the rotor bridge is removed, see near the centre of the pic attached.

Cal552.JPG

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, canthus said:

It is likely that the second hand shaft is pushing down so the hand is not fully going onto it.  The second hand pinion is held in mesh by a flat spring which sits on the other end of the shaft.  This needs to be supported when fitting the second hand so that it allows the hand to be fitted without moving down.  This spring can be seen when the rotor bridge is removed, see near the centre of the pic attached.

Cal552.JPG

I would say that is the issue the pinion needs to  be supported when fitting the centre seconds hand much the same as some chronographs (thinking of the ETA 7750) that really need a dedicated movement holder to support the centre pinion.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay. I have taken the rotor off and the drive wheel and now have what's shown in the photo. So rather than just dive in, when you say rotor bridge, I'm assuming I now need to bite the bullet and remove the two screws holding it on. It just looks quite different to your photo (accepting that it's a different movement). Presumably I'm going to have to remove a number of wheels underneath looking at those pivots?! Apologies for probably ask ing the obvious :) 

20180327_203338509a_iOS.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bit the bullet and removed the rotor bridge. I think I can see the flat spring hiding further down underneath that centre pinion. I've circled it in red. Just in case anybody's got a pointer to watch out for, I'll leave this one till tomorrow now. 

20180327_220407017a_iOS.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I could be wrong, but the movement you posted may be a “directly driven” seconds type, as opposed to the indirectly driven types posted beforehand from a 500-series. 

For the 500-series, you can get away with fitting the seconds hand once the rotor is assembled as it supports the friction spring. Another alternative is to use a firm case cushion. 

Edited by rodabod
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Put the movement in a movement holder and it will be supported as you push down on the setting lever post to release the winding stem. Make sure the post is over the shoulder of the movement holder so what you are pressing down on is supported. As a general rule, hold the movement and not the movement holder. Replace the hands when the movement isn't in the case and support the centre jewel (if it has one) on a hard surface or staking block when replacing the hands to stop the jewel accidentally moving or even coming out. A dedicated movement holder with a central jewel support is even better, but pricey
    • It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is. I've attached a lesson regarding mainsprings, focussing on the size and strength of the spring within the barrel, you might find helpful. Unfortunately it is a PDF converted from a PowerPoint presentation, but only a slide was lost that was originally a video of fitting a mainspring   Lesson 5 The mainspring.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...