Advice on sourcing lacquer

[measuretwice]

If one wanted to lacquer brass parts via dipping, are there particular lacquers to use?  Is there some particular kind/brand to get, or just grab something from the hardware store that says lacquer?

Question 2, I've been told the right reduction is around 6x, aiming for about a 6-7 micron coat (1/4 mil) - that seem about right?

Thanks!

PS - happy to hear any other good tips you might have

[oldhippy]

You don’t say what you want to lacquer. I used to lacquer French Carriage Clock cases. I used a very fine brush, a brush I got from an Artist paint shop. I would just paint it on making sure not to use to much so it covered evenly but never ran. Make sure it is spotless, no tiny hairs or specks of dust. I used this one for brass and clear. It dries very fast in fact within seconds.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/lacquers-rapid-drying

Edited March 19, 2018 by oldhippy

[measuretwice]

yeah, I didn't say as its some model engine parts and I didn't want to get a spanking....but I thought it  a good place to ask as clock work occasionally requires it. 

In gathering more info, it seems like dipping is the easiest way to get the right thickness.  Brass music instrument repairmen spray it, but that might be a function of who has dip tank big enough for a tuba?  There are also two part thermal cure epoxy lacquers popular with music repairmen, but for parts (and probably a clock as well) they're not handled so don't need the ultimate in durability.

Thanks for the link.  All I've been able to find locally is a lacquer from a big box store, no idea if its any good or even if there such a thing as good or bad lacquer.  I sprayed and it looks horrible....but I'm thinking that might be from the coating being far too thick.    I'll going to experiment with dips and reductions, measure the coating and thickness and see how it looks

Any break through will be reported

 

Edited March 20, 2018 by measuretwice

[Tmuir]

Do your research if you go down the epoxy path as I doubt you would be able to easily remove it if it needs re-varnishing in the future.

As you are asking for model engine parts it might not matter, but with clocks (or watches) what ever you do must be done with in mind that in the future someone else will need to service / repair the clock so you need to use something that can be removed without damage to the clock.

[measuretwice]

43 minutes ago, Tmuir said:

Do your research if you go down the epoxy path as I doubt you would be able to easily remove it if it needs re-varnishing in the future.

good point.  I wasn't really interested in the epoxy, was more just trying to give broader coverage to the topic but if its not removable with lacquer thinner its a valid reason not to use it.  For horology or models the lacquer applied for aesthetics and shouldn't see wear.....vs a door knob or knocker etc ....so I don't really think the epoxy is necessary.

I ended up getting some lacquer from Perrins, night and day difference from big box stuff (you'd think I'd know better by now).  The Perrins was transparent with a slight yellow tint whereas the big box stuff was completely cloudy, opaque.

I ended up reducing it 4:1 and spraying with an airbrush.   I'd previous been pointed toward dipping as the best way to go.  I tried this with the big box stuff, but it uses up a lot of chemicals as the largest part was maybe half the size of a carriage clock - you have to fill a largish dip tank.  With the new bottle of the good stuff (i'll post the brand later when its in front of me) I didn't want to use it all up in one go so went back to spraying.  It worked well.  So the conclusion is the key is a quality lacquer and spraying works well with a 4:1 reduction

Edited March 25, 2018 by measuretwice