Has anyone got one of these lathes?? if so are they any good for repairing pivots etc..I know they would not be any use for heavy work, but thought I would ask first..
Have a good weekend all..
I have a Breitling Crosswind watch in for repair and it has the classic crown which has become worn and detached from the stem leaving the threaded portion of the crown and the stem. I am after a new crown but no where sells only the crown or crown and stem tube combination. You have to be a registered dealer or approved service agent of Breitling it seems to have the ability to get the parts you require. Genuine parts that is. I have been told by breitling they won't sell just the crown etc as the watch will have to go in to one of their service centres for them to repair it and then they want to service the watch as well which my client does not want as he wants to keep costs down.
How can I go about purchasing genuine Breitling spares in this case?
I would like to understand if the threading for the accesories made for the Sincere lathe (faceplates, chucks, collets, etc) are compatible with the Cowells 90CW lathe.
My use case is the fabrication of bridges for existing movements that can be engraved / finished by myself. I would like to start with the cheaper Sincere lathe and accessories, and then upgrade the lathe to the 90CW while keeping all the Sincere accessories.
Outside of the actual operation of the lathe, I am quite a novice in the intricacies of accessory threading. I would also like a recommendation (book, online resource, etc) on how to adequaltely assess the compatability between the accessories of two distinct lathes.
Here's a look at the finished product. The new luminous paint has been applied with a light tint to give it an aged appearance which compliments the dial. The hour and minute hands have been painted with the same batch to ensure a proper match. They'll be affixed to the movement once the paint has cured for several days.
Hand in the air and waving wildly.....The NH36/4R36 movements ("A" suffix means Day & Date) hacks and winds whereas the 7S26 does neither. I have wondered if they were interchangeable. I have one untouched 4R36A couple of years old that is a daily driver keeping within a couple seconds since last weeks setting.
There seems to be some disparity about the stems. Most 7S26 watches have the 4 o'clock stem and 4R36 is at 3. I have seen recent offerings with a stem at 3 o'clock which do not hack/wind. Any clarification would be welcome.
its more the skill to be fair, ive seen people in the watch world make pieces with make shift tools. that was the mistake a few years ago i made, spent a load of money on tools, but was lacking the skill.
However... stunning piece of kit you have there,
You have a milling attachment and a dividing plate, that's the base for making wheels and pinions. Hopefully the dividing plate has divisions that correspond to the parts you want to make. You will need basic (well, advanced) hand and bench tools any pro watchmaker would have. You will have to source cutters for your gear making. It is possible to make them but you would really need more complex equipment like a profile projector to do a decent job. You could layout the holes using the cross slide and milling attachment. Essentially you would have what the fellow at Adventures in Watchmaking blog has and he has gotten quite far in his project. It's taken him years but he's doing it. Some basic CAD software would be really helpful, as well as the Swiss NIHS norms book for designing your gearing.
Couple of observations- the cross slide doesn't appear to have a graduated thimble on one axis, and the other (and the one on the milling attachment) are quite small. It appears to be set up "German style", that is, the headstock is to be used on the right. See the cross slide. You can't just flip the top slide around usually. And, on some of these old German machines the slide screws are 0.75mm pitch, so it can get a little nuts keeping track of where you are. AND- they are sometimes left-hand threaded, to the motion to advance is reversed from 99.9% of all other lathes. All that said it is still useful stuff. A friend of mine had an old Lorch with left-handed 0.75mm screws on the slide and he made up large graduated discs with pointers mounted near the cranks to make it a little user friendly. I tried it a couple of times but years of normal-sense screws wouldn't allow my brain to wrap around the reversed-ness.