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Kienzle Markant Pocketwatch Service

One of my Mum's friends dropped off a pocket watch for me to service. It was her father's watch, and she used it all through her nursing career: so it held quite some sentimental value to her. She told my Mum that it did run; but only for a few minutes and then stopped, unless the crown was moved.

It's a German made Kienzie Markant.


I popped the back off and the movement and saw that it was VERY dry, but in good condition.
First thing I notice was the stamping .... Zero (0) Jewels - Unadjusted. So this thing is no RR Standard Hamilton; but none the less a nice little project, and one that will make my Mum's friend happy :)


The front was also removable via a case blade, and since the Main Plate was riveted to the case is required to be removed in order to service this movement.


With the hands removed, the dial was next. It is secured by two screws on the face.


Motion Work is a very basic setup. So I removed the Cannon Pinion and moved to the back of the movement.


While inspecting this movement carefully, as this is my first attempt at a pocket watch, I noticed a few things that I'd never seen before...

Firstly, the timing adjustment is done by a sort of jack screw arrangement.
(Note: The two large screws for securing the Balance, and a smaller "Jacking Screw" to adjust the timing.)


Secondly, the Fork arrangement was also something new to me. Posts instead of Pallets to engage the escapement.


Here's another view the Fork removed.


So I removed the tension from the Mainspring, and removed the Balance and Fork.


I was a little nervous removing the Bridge, as it's a 3/4 Bridge and I couldn't see the layout of this movement, and since this is a very new style of movement to me I wanted to take reference photos. Well my nervousness was justified, and EVERYTHING lifted out with the Bridge!! ACk!! :startle:


Again, something new to me was the layout of the Keyless Work. It's a rather clever rocking pinion system. Rock one way and the Mainspring is wound, rock the other and you engage the Motion Work.


Thankfully the Click Screw was marked as a left-hand thread ... Note the extra stripes either side of the Driver Slot.


Movement is fully stripped and ready for a bath :)


Here's that nasty 3/4 Bridge that stopped me taking reference photos of the Gear Train Layout.


Once all the parts were clean, it's time to get this thing back together .... Gulp! :lolu:

My Heavenly Father has gifted me with skill and cunning when working with watches, and I thank and praise him for it!! To assemble the Gear Train, I placed them upside down on the 3/4 Bridge, and then lowered the Main Plate on top of them. This made the alignment of the train and pivots a breeze.


I then flipped it back over, and with a few gentle wiggles and very slight pressure on the Bridge, everything was in place.


I replaced the Second Wheel, and the Spring Keeper.


Refitted the Motion Work and Cannon Pinion.


Then the Fork and Balance.


Adjusted, fitted the Dial and Hands, and Re-Cased.


The Kienzie Markant is now running smoothly and continuously.
It was great fun to work on, and I hope you enjoyed the walkthrough.

PS. when held to the ear, the ticking sounds like an old grandfather clock :P Gotta love dem pocket watches!!

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autowind, on 20 Sept 2014 - 12:42 AM, said:

I suspect that what you call the jacking screw is in fact for adjusting the end shake on the balance wheel,  others will no doubt know if this is correct.


Thanks for the heads-up on that Autowind.  I'm still very new to all this, and I greatly appreciate your input. I bet that's exactly what it is mate! 

I just might pop the back off again and make sure the end shake is adjusted correctly.

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Dear unstoppable Lawson,


Let me congratulate you on a job WELL DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:

Thank you for posting this awesome movement and walkthrough.

Edited by bobm12

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That is outstanding Lawson. You've done agreat job with that pin pallet (0) jewel movement! This type has become something of a specialty for me since I started watchmaking as a hobby. I have done many-some with one jewel and some with as many as 17 jewels, but no pocket watch as of yet. Thanks for posting!



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Hello Lawson!

What oils did you use?

Especially for the pallets? (I know it doesn't have pallets, but I don't know how to call it - Anker fork, I guess). Is 9415 ok? Don't laugh, I know they didn't have 9415 back then.


Thank you,


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matabog, on 20 Feb 2015 - 11:44 PM, said:


Hello Lawson!
What oils did you use?
Especially for the pallets? (I know it doesn't have pallets, but I don't know how to call it - Anker fork, I guess). Is 9415 ok? Don't laugh, I know they didn't have 9415 back then.
Thank you,



Hey Bogdan,


This is a good question mate.  And I should have added this information to this walkthrough, as the Pin Lever Escapement looks quite different than the pallet arrangement we are used to seeing.


On page 7 of "The Practical Lubrication of Watches and Clocks", published by the British Horological Institute, it says, and I quote:

Practical Lubrication.pdf


Pallet pins on pin lever escapements require a lubricant which will remain in

place. Either stabilised grease, (such as Microtime stabilised grease) or 941 and

9415 are suitable depending upon caliber.


It also goes on to emphasize the vital importance of a Epilame like "Fix-o-Drop" before applying any lubricate. 




The use of Epilame is even more crucial to a Pin Lever than a Pallet, in my humble opinion, to avoid the lubricate sliding down the pins and pooling on the lever ... where it's of no use.  If you don't have a bottle of "Fix-o-Drop", you'll need to grab one for working on these movements.



And when you purchase a bottle of Fix-o-Drop, I would also recommend the correct bottle for applying it to parts.  They are not expensive, and save you wasting a LOT of Fix-o-Drop when your part drops into the bottle :P

... of course I wouldn't be speaking from experience here ... this NEVER happens to someone like me :rolleyes:  *cough cough*




Thanks for the great question Bogdan, and I hope this has been of help mate :)

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Oh, I forgot the rest of the oils.  Well there are no real surprises there mate.


D5 and 9501 for Keyless work ... or perhaps Jisma Blue Grease instead of 9501 for the purist out there.

D5 and 9010 for the Train Wheels.

and D5 for the Motion Work

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Thank you for the answer!

I will use 9415 then, but without Epilame. I don't have it. I don't think Kienzle had it either 85 years ago.


If there are no pallet jewels then there is no shellac; no shellac, no alcohol restrictions!  I will clean that pin pallets with isopropyl alcohol so well that it will go to rehab after I'll finish with it!




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clockboy, on 21 Feb 2015 - 06:59 AM, said:

Great service again Lawson.

As a side issue how did you let down the tension off the mainspring. I have looked at the pics & nothing obvious to me.



I've circled the click release slots for you mate.  Sorry I didn't illustrate that in the walkthrough mate.



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I have repaired/serviced many pin lever clocks & found a tiny bit of 941 works fine. I have never used Fix-o-Drop and have had no failures as a result. In my experience (for what its worth) I have found although very clunky Pin Lever movements are very robust and seem to last for many years without any lubrication.

Edited by clockboy

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