Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Kienzle Markant Pocketwatch Service


One of my Mum's friends dropped off a pocket watch for me to service. It was her father's watch, and she used it all through her nursing career: so it held quite some sentimental value to her. She told my Mum that it did run; but only for a few minutes and then stopped, unless the crown was moved.

It's a German made Kienzie Markant.

post-246-0-49075900-1411132283_thumb.jpg

I popped the back off and the movement and saw that it was VERY dry, but in good condition.
First thing I notice was the stamping .... Zero (0) Jewels - Unadjusted. So this thing is no RR Standard Hamilton; but none the less a nice little project, and one that will make my Mum's friend happy :)

post-246-0-24193800-1411132287_thumb.jpg

The front was also removable via a case blade, and since the Main Plate was riveted to the case is required to be removed in order to service this movement.

post-246-0-17214600-1411132290_thumb.jpg

With the hands removed, the dial was next. It is secured by two screws on the face.

post-246-0-36049500-1411132293_thumb.jpg

Motion Work is a very basic setup. So I removed the Cannon Pinion and moved to the back of the movement.

post-246-0-46361600-1411132297_thumb.jpg

While inspecting this movement carefully, as this is my first attempt at a pocket watch, I noticed a few things that I'd never seen before...

Firstly, the timing adjustment is done by a sort of jack screw arrangement.
(Note: The two large screws for securing the Balance, and a smaller "Jacking Screw" to adjust the timing.)

post-246-0-37905300-1411132302_thumb.jpg

Secondly, the Fork arrangement was also something new to me. Posts instead of Pallets to engage the escapement.

post-246-0-96472400-1411132305_thumb.jpg

Here's another view the Fork removed.

post-246-0-54784100-1411132308_thumb.jpg

So I removed the tension from the Mainspring, and removed the Balance and Fork.

post-246-0-71023600-1411132313_thumb.jpg

I was a little nervous removing the Bridge, as it's a 3/4 Bridge and I couldn't see the layout of this movement, and since this is a very new style of movement to me I wanted to take reference photos. Well my nervousness was justified, and EVERYTHING lifted out with the Bridge!! ACk!! :startle:

post-246-0-26396700-1411132317_thumb.jpg

Again, something new to me was the layout of the Keyless Work. It's a rather clever rocking pinion system. Rock one way and the Mainspring is wound, rock the other and you engage the Motion Work.

post-246-0-43368100-1411132530_thumb.jpg

Thankfully the Click Screw was marked as a left-hand thread ... Note the extra stripes either side of the Driver Slot.

post-246-0-82193400-1411132533_thumb.jpg

Movement is fully stripped and ready for a bath :)

post-246-0-25645000-1411132537_thumb.jpg

Here's that nasty 3/4 Bridge that stopped me taking reference photos of the Gear Train Layout.

post-246-0-56116000-1411132540_thumb.jpg

Once all the parts were clean, it's time to get this thing back together .... Gulp! :lolu:
post-246-0-73108600-1411132544_thumb.jpg

My Heavenly Father has gifted me with skill and cunning when working with watches, and I thank and praise him for it!! To assemble the Gear Train, I placed them upside down on the 3/4 Bridge, and then lowered the Main Plate on top of them. This made the alignment of the train and pivots a breeze.

post-246-0-95344800-1411132548_thumb.jpg

I then flipped it back over, and with a few gentle wiggles and very slight pressure on the Bridge, everything was in place.

post-246-0-39487500-1411132552_thumb.jpg

I replaced the Second Wheel, and the Spring Keeper.

post-246-0-05976200-1411132557_thumb.jpg

Refitted the Motion Work and Cannon Pinion.

post-246-0-93560400-1411132560_thumb.jpg

Then the Fork and Balance.

post-246-0-74551600-1411135374_thumb.jpg

Adjusted, fitted the Dial and Hands, and Re-Cased.

post-246-0-13604900-1411132564_thumb.jpg

The Kienzie Markant is now running smoothly and continuously.
It was great fun to work on, and I hope you enjoyed the walkthrough.

PS. when held to the ear, the ticking sounds like an old grandfather clock :P Gotta love dem pocket watches!!

Click here to view the article

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
autowind, on 20 Sept 2014 - 12:42 AM, said:

I suspect that what you call the jacking screw is in fact for adjusting the end shake on the balance wheel,  others will no doubt know if this is correct.

 

Thanks for the heads-up on that Autowind.  I'm still very new to all this, and I greatly appreciate your input. I bet that's exactly what it is mate! 

I just might pop the back off again and make sure the end shake is adjusted correctly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dear unstoppable Lawson,

 

Let me congratulate you on a job WELL DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:

Thank you for posting this awesome movement and walkthrough.

Edited by bobm12

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is outstanding Lawson. You've done agreat job with that pin pallet (0) jewel movement! This type has become something of a specialty for me since I started watchmaking as a hobby. I have done many-some with one jewel and some with as many as 17 jewels, but no pocket watch as of yet. Thanks for posting!

 

JC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hello Lawson!

What oils did you use?

Especially for the pallets? (I know it doesn't have pallets, but I don't know how to call it - Anker fork, I guess). Is 9415 ok? Don't laugh, I know they didn't have 9415 back then.

 

Thank you,

Bogdan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
matabog, on 20 Feb 2015 - 11:44 PM, said:

 

Hello Lawson!
What oils did you use?
Especially for the pallets? (I know it doesn't have pallets, but I don't know how to call it - Anker fork, I guess). Is 9415 ok? Don't laugh, I know they didn't have 9415 back then.
 
Thank you,
Bogdan

 

 

Hey Bogdan,

 

This is a good question mate.  And I should have added this information to this walkthrough, as the Pin Lever Escapement looks quite different than the pallet arrangement we are used to seeing.

 

On page 7 of "The Practical Lubrication of Watches and Clocks", published by the British Horological Institute, it says, and I quote:

Practical Lubrication.pdf

 

Pallet pins on pin lever escapements require a lubricant which will remain in

place. Either stabilised grease, (such as Microtime stabilised grease) or 941 and

9415 are suitable depending upon caliber.

 

It also goes on to emphasize the vital importance of a Epilame like "Fix-o-Drop" before applying any lubricate. 

 

post-246-0-89742100-1424459936_thumb.jpg

 

The use of Epilame is even more crucial to a Pin Lever than a Pallet, in my humble opinion, to avoid the lubricate sliding down the pins and pooling on the lever ... where it's of no use.  If you don't have a bottle of "Fix-o-Drop", you'll need to grab one for working on these movements.

 

 

And when you purchase a bottle of Fix-o-Drop, I would also recommend the correct bottle for applying it to parts.  They are not expensive, and save you wasting a LOT of Fix-o-Drop when your part drops into the bottle :P

... of course I wouldn't be speaking from experience here ... this NEVER happens to someone like me :rolleyes:  *cough cough*

 

post-246-0-49488100-1424459947.jpg

 

Thanks for the great question Bogdan, and I hope this has been of help mate :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, I forgot the rest of the oils.  Well there are no real surprises there mate.

 

D5 and 9501 for Keyless work ... or perhaps Jisma Blue Grease instead of 9501 for the purist out there.

D5 and 9010 for the Train Wheels.

and D5 for the Motion Work

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thank you for the answer!

I will use 9415 then, but without Epilame. I don't have it. I don't think Kienzle had it either 85 years ago.

 

If there are no pallet jewels then there is no shellac; no shellac, no alcohol restrictions!  I will clean that pin pallets with isopropyl alcohol so well that it will go to rehab after I'll finish with it!

 

 

Bogdan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
clockboy, on 21 Feb 2015 - 06:59 AM, said:

Great service again Lawson.

As a side issue how did you let down the tension off the mainspring. I have looked at the pics & nothing obvious to me.

 

 

I've circled the click release slots for you mate.  Sorry I didn't illustrate that in the walkthrough mate.

 

post-246-0-08201700-1424494127_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have repaired/serviced many pin lever clocks & found a tiny bit of 941 works fine. I have never used Fix-o-Drop and have had no failures as a result. In my experience (for what its worth) I have found although very clunky Pin Lever movements are very robust and seem to last for many years without any lubrication.

Edited by clockboy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Similar Content

    • By Buf
      Hello everyone 
      I recently bought a lot of pocket watches on Ebay. 
      Between them I found an Alpina pocket watch with movement UH 1116. I saw on internet that usually is referred as Alpina 1116.
      I got the following situation, while removing the wheels bridges, one of the ruby remained on the wheel. 
      Please take a look on the following pictures. 
      I also took some pictures with a microscope in order to explain better the situation. 
      Could you please suggest me what I should do? 
      Is what I got complete? Looking to another ruby it seems there is something missing (holding piece?) 
      Is the movement common? Do You believe I can find the bridge somewhere? 
      BTW I have also found a broken spring
      Many thanks in advance for your suggestions
      Regards 
      Buf
       
       
       






    • By Calvin03
      Hello 
      I just bought A Mido watch pre-owned and certified COSC of course it must be a really accurate watch right but at least +/-10second a day worst
      But this watch run fast like 1- 1.5 minutes a day...from the movement blue screws i see that the watch has never being serviced since it first owner,
      I want to ask,does this watch need service or this watch got magnetize? Cause it just run fast 1-2 minutes fast and i see many articles say that magnetize watch can run fast to hours..
      Thanks
    • By rickyb
      Just got my hands on a 
      Waltham 
      6 size
      Model: 1890
      Grade: W
      The other one's I saw like this in the pocket watch DATABASE (4) all have sub second hands.
      Mine does not. Is this possible?
    • By Ballefrostt
      Hello
      A friend of my father gave me this old pocketwatch to see if I could repare it. 
       
      As you see in the picture, the balance wheel is extremely bent. I tried to bend it back, but i cant make it good enough.
       
      Does anyone know where I can find a balancewheel for this Revue 30 movement? I have tried to search around online, however, I cant find any.
       
      Is there a generic balance that would fit in here? 
       
      Best regards
      Nicholas




    • By VWatchie
      ETA Calibre 2772 Service Walkthrough Pictures – Disassembly
      (Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order)
      ETA Calibre 2772 Service Walkthrough Pictures – Assembly
      (Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order)
      For the disassembly sequence to make sense it is important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be removed in its position on the movement and the following picture shows the removed part along with any screws that held it in place.
      For the assembly sequence to make sense it is important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be assembled along with any screws holding it in place. If needed, the following picture shows the section of the movement where that part is to be assembled along with my lubrication suggestion, and the picture after that shows the part when assembled to the movement.
      Note that this is not a maintenance servicing tutorial. To be able to service a watch movement some basic tools are required as well as some basic skills. It’s not difficult but it requires a bit of practice and perseverance. I’ve used a lot of sources on the internet to learn about servicing and repairing but watchrepairlessons have so far not only been the best source but also the most affordable source I’ve come across. I am a patron of watchrepairlessons but I’m in no way affiliated with it.
      Prior to servicing this calibre 2772, I’ve serviced an ETA calibre 2472 and two ETA calibre 2824-2s and the kinship between these movement is obvious. The 2472 is from the mid-60s, the 2772 is from the mid-70s, and the 2824-2 is from the early 80s. They all have the same type of distinguishing train. The keyless works of the 2472 and the 2772 is of the more traditional type whereas the keyless works of the 2824-2 quite a bit more sophisticated. However, the calendar works of the older 2472 is by far the more complex with its instant flip over of the date. It has been very interesting to study the similarities and differences between these three related automatic ETA movements.
       
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

×
×
  • Create New...