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Horological spill over into other hobbies?

anilv
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anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

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Well among my other interests, motorcycles probably rank as high as horology and recently I had occasion to use some horological knowledge on my bike.

Problem was the sight glass for the 2-stroke oil was well knackered

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It looked like it had been subjected to heat at some point.

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I managed to source a replacement but the closest I could find was a similar diameter but with different height.

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and when installed it sat a few mm lower (in the pic below the window should sit flush with the surround).

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Well I measured the diameter and found it was 28mm. I pulled out a 282 crystal and inserted it using the claw.

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a few taps and its now flush. Here it is in place with the outer cover in position.

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Its not as clear as a correct original would be and your eyes need to be exactly level with the window when checking but it will do for an occasional bike which doesn't see much use.

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another aspect of watchmaking was this caseback opener which I attempted to use to remove the locking ring.. unsuccessfully. This was eventually removed by the trusty hammer and screwdriver.

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Anyone else used watch skills/tools on other hobbies?

Anilv

 

 

 

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Edited by anilv
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clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

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Well it is not a tool but a cleaning fluid. It is a concentrated ultrasonic cleaner (7:1 mix with warm water) for clocks but is also for cleaning carburettors.  It is on order I will review when I have used it. Thinking about it, it  is to remove old grease & oils etc so it should work & at £27.90 for 5 litres incl. delivery  I thought it is was worth a punt.  I purchased today from :

https://mistralie.co.uk/products/ultrasonic-cleaner-for-clocks

 

5a97dce855de8_ScreenShot2018-03-01at10_56_09.png.c47e510c229212dac79f296ca03c9bd8.png

 

 

 

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watchabit Member

watchabit

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I have used my ultrasonic carb cleaner at the shop to clean stubborn stainless cases, but I didn't want to tell anybody :huh: 

As long as its good stainless it doesnt hurt anything. Carb cleaner is pretty strong stuff. Have also used CLR in my jewelry ultrasonic for stubborn rust on stainless cases. Be careful though...

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measuretwice WRT Addict

measuretwice

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machining, model engineering, some electronics,  writing articles on the craft, some photography (most for articles).  Been at if for close to 30 years, I sure didn't know I end up this deeply into it (nor did the wife!)

Things I've made:   https://imgur.com/a/d2Y3a

My garage shop:   https://imgur.com/a/g8aKm

My basement shop:  https://imgur.com/a/BHIf1

added the M1, an Aciera F1 and another Schaublin 70 since taking those.  Am now truly out of space.

Edited by measuretwice
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anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

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10 hours ago, jdrichard said:

I need to figure out how to cross guitar world with watch world...wait! I did use a .09 guitar string for a click spring and it worked great, duration to the springiness on the steel. Ta Da

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
 

What would I be asking for if I went to a music supplies shop... I seem to remember they were called by alphabets..eg e-string? 

Anilv

 

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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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machining, model engineering, some electronics,  writing articles on the craft, some photography (most for articles).  Been at if for close to 30 years, I sure didn't know I end up this deeply into it (nor did the wife!)
Things I've made:   https://imgur.com/a/d2Y3a
My garage shop:   https://imgur.com/a/g8aKm
My basement shop:  https://imgur.com/a/BHIf1
added the M1, an Aciera F1 and another Schaublin 70 since taking those.  Am now truly out of space.

Can't see images. Where do you live in Canada?

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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machining, model engineering, some electronics,  writing articles on the craft, some photography (most for articles).  Been at if for close to 30 years, I sure didn't know I end up this deeply into it (nor did the wife!)
Things I've made:   https://imgur.com/a/d2Y3a
My garage shop:   https://imgur.com/a/g8aKm
My basement shop:  https://imgur.com/a/BHIf1
added the M1, an Aciera F1 and another Schaublin 70 since taking those.  Am now truly out of space.

Need to show my wife this equipment so she sees how frugal I am


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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frenchie Distinguished Member

frenchie

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22 hours ago, measuretwice said:

machining, model engineering, some electronics,  writing articles on the craft, some photography (most for articles).  Been at if for close to 30 years, I sure didn't know I end up this deeply into it (nor did the wife!)

Things I've made:   https://imgur.com/a/d2Y3a

My garage shop:   https://imgur.com/a/g8aKm

My basement shop:  https://imgur.com/a/BHIf1

added the M1, an Aciera F1 and another Schaublin 70 since taking those.  Am now truly out of space.

You, sir, have a lot of stuff... !

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dadistic Distinguished Member

dadistic

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22 hours ago, measuretwice said:

machining, model engineering, some electronics,  writing articles on the craft, some photography (most for articles).  Been at if for close to 30 years, I sure didn't know I end up this deeply into it (nor did the wife!)

Things I've made:   https://imgur.com/a/d2Y3a

My garage shop:   https://imgur.com/a/g8aKm

My basement shop:  https://imgur.com/a/BHIf1

added the M1, an Aciera F1 and another Schaublin 70 since taking those.  Am now truly out of space.

Hey, I have a bunch of extra space, happy to help you out!  Schaublin 70 is so cool.

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measuretwice WRT Addict

measuretwice

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34 minutes ago, frenchie said:

You, sir, have a lot of stuff... !

yes, sort of ended up the way.  I do reflect though that I had just as much when starting, collecting and often reconditioning all the stuff is a pursuit of its own, but you don't have to have to make great stuff or have a ball doing so.   JD, I don't have much money into; its like that cliche, you want it high quality, fast and low price pick two.  Patience over the decades, bit of buying and selling and upgrading and so on. 

I see lots of overlap with horology and machining, many model engineering types also make clocks for example..... but also there tons  and tons of new learning and new skills required....so with shops stuffed full of tools, its blast being a beginner again :)

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measuretwice WRT Addict

measuretwice

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cripes that response was illegible....apologies, I miss words when I type,  mild dyslexia and this site doesn't let one go back and fix things  :(.   It should have read  " yes, it sort of ended up that way.  I do reflect though that I had just as much fun when starting out.  Collecting and often reconditioning all the stuff is a pursuit of its own, but you don't have to have so much to make great stuff or have a ball doing so. 

Edited by measuretwice
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      I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
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      I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
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      Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
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