I recently got some Seiko S-2 mainspring grease. In the box was an instruction sheet. Basically says to use a brush to apply a very thin coat on the barrel wall, bottom and lid. Using a brush is different than the procedure I commonly see.
The S-2 grease sure looks a lot like the Kluber grease. I'm not a trained watchmaker and I don't know if a Seiko procedure doesn't translate well from Japanese. S-2 is specified for the 6309 and the Orient is closer to a 7 series Seiko. Maybe try this?
From what I've picked up I believe that it is a good thing in general to strive for a low beat error and I think the reasons for this are pretty much covered in @rodabod's somewhat, shall we say "defiant" questions:
When working with watches the question of what is acceptable tolerances can always be debated. From what I've learnt and personally find to be reasonable tolerances we'd generally want to strive for a beat error less than or equal to about 0.3 ms for a watch with a beat corrector arm and less than or equal to about 0.8 ms for a watch without a beat corrector arm (I guess because it's more difficult and time consuming to exactly adjust a hairspring collect). I think of these boundaries as a rule of thumb and something to strive for, but if it can't be achieved it doesn't mean the watch isn't working well enough or that it is an actual "error".
BTW, here are the watch repair channel videos discussing how to adjust the beat error on watches both with a without a beat corrector.
I do it much like polishing the pallet fork jewels but with different abrasives, first one hold the function of the part with like a bergeon 30433 pallet fork holder, then under the microscope I gently take away the scratches one can see with a 3M 2500 grit stick. When the parts looks good I polish them of with dialux blue spred on a flattened peg wood.
One could probably use a stong lupe too instead of the microscope.