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    • Thanks for the suggestion! My guess though (but I could of course be wrong), is that it doesn't really matter how the grease is applied as over time the spring will distribute the grease evenly around the barrel wall as it slips. It's interesting though that they are suggesting to greasing the lid, which is something I haven't even given a thought before reading your post. The height of the lid is about 1/3 of the total height of the barrel and as far as I can see the height of the spring fits very snugly in the lower section of the barrel. However, I guess it could be that the spring moves vertically into the lid when it's operating and if there's no grease on the wall of the lid that for sure (I guess) would impair the slipping of the spring So yes, whatever grease I'll put on the next time I'll make sure to include the inner wall of the lid. Thanks for your input!
    • Hmm... my guess is that your advice is to accept a "moderate beat error"  As mentioned in my previous post it is not always easy to determine what is an acceptable deviation. That is, to determine when an adjustment is more reasonable than not. For a watch with a beat corrector arm it only takes a minute or so to get a near perfect beat (provided the movement in all other aspects is healthy) so in that case I wouldn't refrain from doing it. So far I never had to adjust the beat of a watch lacking a beat corrector, but before I do I will practice it on my old scrap movements until I've gained enough confidence to eliminate as much risk as possible.
    • I recently got some Seiko S-2 mainspring grease.  In the box was an instruction sheet.  Basically says to use a brush to apply a very thin coat on the barrel wall, bottom and lid.  Using a brush is different than the procedure I commonly see.  The S-2 grease sure looks a lot like the Kluber grease.  I'm not a trained watchmaker and I don't know if a Seiko procedure doesn't translate well from Japanese.  S-2 is specified for the 6309 and the Orient is closer to a 7 series Seiko.  Maybe try this?
    • From what I've picked up I believe that it is a good thing in general to strive for a low beat error and I think the reasons for this are pretty much covered in @rodabod's somewhat, shall we say "defiant" questions: When working with watches the question of what is acceptable tolerances can always be debated. From what I've learnt and personally find to be reasonable tolerances we'd generally want to strive for a beat error less than or equal to about 0.3 ms for a watch with a beat corrector arm and less than or equal to about 0.8 ms for a watch without a beat corrector arm (I guess because it's more difficult and time consuming to exactly adjust a hairspring collect). I think of these boundaries as a rule of thumb and something to strive for, but if it can't be achieved it doesn't mean the watch isn't working well enough or that it is an actual "error". BTW, here are the watch repair channel videos discussing how to adjust the beat error on watches both with a without a beat corrector.
    • Thank you! I prefer to do this type of work under the stereo microscope as well. Appreciate the help!
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