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Omega cal. 265 does not work


arkobugg

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Cheers mates!

Have done service on a Omega cal. 265, have taken it togheter, have cleaned in a Janta Brand cleaning maschine, inspectede all parts for wear and tear. Put it togheter, it started to once I winded it, it when for 48 hours straight, and was measured to - 160 sec. late. It was left for some days until yesterday, I thought I should try to make it go a little more precise. When winding, it would not start, tok off the backcover, everything sems ok. Tok out the balance bridgde, and sat it in again, than it when for a little while, and then stopt. Do somebody have som clue what to start with??

 

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@arkobugg; I would start checking the hands, whether they touch each other. Set them in another position and see what happens. Look "flat" (horizontal) over the dial and turn the hands (the full 12 hours) and see if they are free of each other and the dial. Check also the little seconds hand. Try this with crown pulled out and pushed in.

If that doesn't improve, take the hands and dial off, remove the hour wheel. This will disengage the keyless works and the movement is "free" to run / move.

If the movement doesn't run, the trouble is somewhere in the movement. "Kick start" the balance and see if the pallet fork has energy to "jump" and whether the escape wheel like to move with "gusto". If that doesn't work, remove the balance assembly and see if the pallet fork "jumps" backward and forward if you carefully touch it. The escape wheel should power the pallet fork and move one teeth at the time. If the escape wheel doesn't progress, the problem is somewhere in the train, spring barrel or spring. If the escape wheel has enough power, then the pallet fork may be the problem .....

Basically, work you way backwards and see if you can spot the problem. Of course there comes a point by which you have to take the power off the mainspring. After you took the residual power out of the spring, removed the "click" and you can "hand-power" the spring barrel / train with a pegwood. After you removed the pallet fork, the train including the escape wheel should turn without effort either way. Try with very little power to see if there is a "tight" spot in the train.

Suc6 ;)

 

Edited by Endeavor
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Hello Endeavor, 

Thanks for taking you time and help me, Im checking on this watch now. And by just moving the palet fork, the watch just started to go. Seems like it just was out of track sort of, got stuck in between sort of. Notic also that I can move the aksel on the escapement wheel sidewayson top og the bridge. Is that a thing I should consider coud be the reason of the suddenley stops?

løs aksel.jpg

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From a distance it is hard to judge how much "side-play" you are talking about. There is always some play between the pivot and the jewel, but too much play is not good either. Did you check all the jewels with a great magnification? Whether there is (oval) wear or that the jewel is perhaps cracked. If the escape wheel pivot has too much play, this could be a reason why the watch suddenly stops.

As I've written above, you have to systematic go through the watch. See what in your opinion 100% works. A process of elimination so to speak. If you find that the train is running smooth, but somehow things start to get less smooth around the escape wheel / pallet fork / balance, than concentrate on those items to see if you can find anything wrong, like a worn / broken / chipped jewel, worn or bend pivots, bend / worn escape-wheel teeth or anything else odd. Take your time to study and use at least 5x or 10x magnification. Have a good look at the balance as well and / or the anti-shock cap-stones and Chatons are nice level in their settings. Are the jewels of the pallet fork still 100%?

It's a relative simple movement, so if the train is good and smooth running, and with the hour-wheel disconnected, then there aren't many parts left; the escape / pallet / balance.

It may be an idea to study how an Swiss escapement exactly works. There is a lot of information given in these videos and play them as many times a required until you fully understand the escapement, if you didn't already? ;-)

As you can see, all needs to be perfect harmony .......

 

 

Edited by Endeavor
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Hello Endeavor,  

Im doing service on more watch with the same caliber, and this was just cleaned ready to assembly. So I took the bridge from that one, and put on this one. And the watch started to go right away. And have been gone since about 20.00 yesterday and all night, until 10.00 O, clock when I when out of the house. Will have to see, if its keeping its pace...   

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I love these movements. Check that jewel is not cracked if it does stop again. A good way to look at side-shake is to let the mainspring down, then grab a spoke of the centre wheel and gently push back and forth..... this changes the direction of thrust in the bearings and will highlight any excessive side-shake. 

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23 hours ago, arkobugg said:

Hello rodabod, thanks for replying to me. But when you say "let the mainspring down" You mean let the mainspring undwind itself??

 

 

Yes. You would obviously remove any power to allow you to push the train back and forth. Otherwise it would be under tension.

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  • 5 months later...

Endeavor pointed out most likely or general causes, complete" ly"   I would say.

I would instal the first complete balance with bridge assembly on the second watch as well. " more data"

Pivot problems ( worn out, bent, chipped off etc) ?   , loose incabs?.   Surely you know the staff pivots should not slip out of jewel holes as  you lift a side of balance wheel with tweezers. Staffs axial end play?   Continue observation with face down/ up.

 Persistance of the problem with the second balance assembly, dose not neccessarily mean the fault is in power train. Jewels side play is a real faul in general.

Regards

 

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