Jump to content

help needed with pocket watch not running in dial up


Blubarb

Recommended Posts

I have just finished assembling this pocket watch and I have hit a small wall.

It Runs in the movement up position ie:

olHeZKI.jpg?1

But when I turn it over so it's dial up, it immediately stops running. 

hr1wjEF.jpg?1

Any thoughts on what the issue might be? Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The balance wheel and or hairspring is almost surely rubbing on something in the dial up position. There could be too much end shake in the balance, or the top pivot could be damaged, bent, or broken, or the hairspring is distorted and barely clearing dial down and then rubbing dial up. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would definitely check the balance staff pivots for damage. In that sense, when the watch is dial down, the weight of the balance is on the dial side pivot and can run freely. When you flip it over, the weight of the balance would then be on the possible broken pivot and it would not be able to operate freely. This would also give you an endshake problem. Best place to start is to remove the balance and inspect it carefully.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it is a broken pivot causing the issue, then am I correct to assume that the only solution is a new balance pivot staff? Given the age of this watch I assume that would be an impossibility and leading to the end of the road for the watch? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/1/2018 at 9:49 AM, Blubarb said:

Found the cause... 

Is it possible to straighten the pivot without breaking it?

LZnXTz2.jpg?1

Tried to straighten it with the tiniest amount of pressure and as I and others suspected it just sheered right off. :thumbsd:  I refuse to let it be the end of the road, so how do I size and find a new arbour and perhaps a complete balance wheel, hairspring with it?? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A donor movement may be your only bet, you could take measurements of the staff you have and compare it to some source, but I suspect this is one of a dozen or so of nameless Swiss or European movements that unless someone recognizes it would be very hard to track down. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I wouldn’t beat yourself up over breaking the balance staff pivot, in order for the watch to keep good time in all positions, that pivot needs to be perfectly straight. The tolerances are too precise and the objects are too small. This isn’t something you could do by hand, just sighting it in. I’m not even sure if it something that could be done with a lathe, or rather it’s just not wort it. Either way, you were gonna need to replace the balance staff. I agree with khunter, that unless you can identify this movement, and even then who knows, sourcing a donor movement maybe your only option.
Sorry, wish that I could provide a better answer. Being only a hobbiest myself, I can tell you I have gained a supreme appreciation to those that do this professionally. I myself have damaged more watches then I’ve successfully repaired. I’ve learned to live with my failures!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks Dell. I thought about silver soldering. Have never done it but would like to give it a go. Do you think to put flux on the butted joint then run the solder in or to maybe brace it with a piece of scrap spring steel?
    • Never and others. Yes, like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. Clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
    • Hi all, total newbie to watchmaking and I've had a bit of a mishap. Just completing level 2 and was doing ok, but I was just on the last part of the reassembly of my ST3620 when the balance end stone shot across the room, just as I was trying to see if I had put the correct amount of oil between it and the balance end, aarrrgh! Been on my hands and knees combing the carpet for 20mins looking for it but to no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement from and what to look for please?? Thanks.
    • Get someone local to tig it ,very easy fix and should only take a few minutes so probably wouldn’t cost much ,or failing that get it very clean and silver solder it. Dell
    • Hi, The winding pin is not split, well that's how it was when I obtained the watch. The movement is front-loaded and here's a picture of where the case screws are fitted. The face picture is before I dismantled it. Quick update.  I've always had a nylon ring sitting in the parts try that I wasn't sure where it went and left it to the last thing as I know it must be part of the case assembly. Anyway, looking at the picture in my last post you can see, just under the winding stem, a white-looking object, this is the nylon ring 🤭 So, I had to remove the dial again and replace the ring. Once this was all back together I placed the movement in the case and realized my initial problem maybe is not a problem as it looks like I can screw the movement back in the case and then place the hands as the dial is nearly flush with the outside of the case anyway so I'll be able to check for alignment. if all is good then just fit the crystal and bezel 🤔 I can't think of any issues with this approach but please comment if you think I've not thought of something. Another lesson learned as well. Take more pictures not just of the movement parts and location 😅
×
×
  • Create New...