Jump to content

1894 Elgin 6S


azkid

Recommended Posts

Just finished working on this 1894 Elgin 6S, Grade 117, 7 jewel watch, and it seems to be running ok. Hope you enjoy the pics and my little newbie adventure [emoji4]
 
9f78421f4e1a62aa0928f31b958d32a7.jpg&key=c817c1c1d884def4f2baa1d35af8fe4939a5b33cd980d810878e8445b2d195e0
 
Got the whole watch on eBay, minus crystal and not running well. The gold filled Keystone "cyclone" case is kind of worn down but still looks ok to me.
 
d99adc98bef4a8bdfa76f12b4874d1c6.jpg&key=558303145c80344ad6489632c2bd52d3045cd77912589b40ed6c8adb55d042c9
 
After cleaning, the amplitude was poor, like 180° poor. I pulled the mainspring and it was about as set as they come. A NOS replacement went in.
 
And the amplitude was still terrible! Then the impulse jewel fell out. Until I get my warmer tool, I swapped a balance from a compatible watch just to see if it would run worth a darn.
 
487fba78753346a234ff1c1d1b4e24ac.jpg&key=45f000f2b43e01780fb079c96cb2e5f5924471b6495fabf6c25b43fa8d998a8a
 
The guard pin needed adjusting and it took me forever to get the beat error down to a crummy 2ms. And still poor amplitude.
 
I remembered seeing divots on the cap jewels so I swapped those. And despite the fairly loose pivot holes, she finally started running right, plenty of amplitude. Whew.
 
Now, it does have a massively bad rate discrepancy between pendant left vs. right. I will have to address that at some point.
 
I recased it (the two had been separated for almost a year now) after finding the stem bits.
 
af92780a5320d8df069c56d4e20bc96b.jpg&key=7d8eb69c693f381c819487ba4eac520af3d1365bd47dd87ad4c9f04ae88ddcbf
 
Cleaned up a couple hands and re-blued them and good to go. Now I just need to find a crystal.
 
eb1569ea889470e61fcec58c4bf1ba61.jpg&key=e34880de5ac42177ec480e28280db4a73a24d61b078a4a8698c3a6debf4157ca
 
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
 


  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Was able to address the mainspring issue.

 

I have had zero luck with crystals. Broken two trying to install. I need to rethink my technique.

 

A plastic crystal is inbound in the meantime so I at least can use the watch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find that old mainsprings, especially the blue ones, lose their memory a bit with age. Hmmm...sounds familiar. If you don't already have one, a set of mainspring pliers might help you get that inner coil shaped better. It's sort of a round-nosed plier with stepped sizing for a couple of different sizes of inner coil bends.

Crystal replacement is a specialty in itself, especially the thin Geneva style for hunter cases. I'm still not great at crystal work myself. Hang in there. Nice little Elgin, BTW. Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi. Yes I get it , the slot in the end I’d to allow you to screw the button on whilst holding the pusher shaft. To remove the pusher tube you will need a tool such as the one shown by Richard. I think Ali Express the Chinese Amazon has replicas of the Horotec system for a lot less money, how effective they are not having had to use one. But as you said the way to go is complete removal and replacement, bodging it up will  lead to a repeat failure
    • It does look like it seems to be working again I'm getting emails.
    • One of the things that I've been bothered with lately is timekeeping? For instance a 90-year-old pocket watch what so to timekeeping was it supposed to keep? They publish railroad timekeeping but I don't know how well normal non-railroad watches were supposed to keep time. The reason why the question comes up for me is I spend a lot of time at work adjusting watches to keep really really good time  because I have to please my boss where as when the watch was made I have to wonder what kind timekeeping would've been acceptable. After all they typically didn't have timing machines 100 years ago and they were timing and six positions certainly not for the non-railroad grade watch. On the other hand I do get paid by the hour so maybe I shouldn't be concerned of how much time I Spend trying to make everything keep chronometer timekeeping almost. Citing a Delta of 40 seconds for a 90-year-old watch is quite outstanding.
    • That's an interesting question which I don't think I've seen explained anywhere. But I think the problem will go away just about instantaneously. In other words the  coating is really thin and it should go away almost immediately. So the problem should resolve itself extremely fast.  
    • I experienced that different types of shellac and their ages are affected differently by IPA. Sometimes the shellac dissolves in a few seconds and sometimes several minutes are required. Nowadays I never let shellac come into contact with IPA. It's a hotly debated topic here on WRT if you search. Like John, I don't think you need to worry about the weight of the shellac, but instead that it might start rubbing against something. When I learned how to adjust pallet stones, I tried documenting my experiences in this thread. Hopefully, it can help you. I personally don't believe in the idea of abrading the epilame before oiling so I don't think you need to think or worry about it. The only time I've heard anyone mention this is Alex on the YouTube channel Watch Repair Tutorials but actually no one else. I'm not saying it's "wrong" just that I don't think it's necessary or adds anything.
×
×
  • Create New...