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Pinning the hairspring to the stud


fuse63

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Real quick question on repinning the hairspring to the stud. Should you remove the hairspring from the balance wheel in order to do this and to make it level or is it best to just leave it on the balance wheel? Any other tips and tricks to make this easy and smooth would be great. Thanks

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1 hour ago, fuse63 said:

Real quick question on repinning the hairspring to the stud. Should you remove the hairspring from the balance wheel in order to do this and to make it level or is it best to just leave it on the balance wheel? Any other tips and tricks to make this easy and smooth would be great. Thanks

Absolutely you will have to secure the new stud. There is a dedicated stud holding tool (bergeon) but I use this tool also manufactured by Bergeon. 

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If you are fitting the end stud then you can use the balance arm to secure the new stud. If using this method after fitting the stud remove the balance assembly & turn upside down and then fit the spring and pin. However be careful when pinning as one slip & you can very easily damage the hairspring.

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Quick answer is Yes, it would be better to remove it from the balance, you could easily slip and damage the wheel, and the hairspring needs to be laying as flat as possible to remain stable. Overcoils are a different matter, they're going to shake around no matter what the main coils are resting on...

Normally the stud will be secured in a fixture, upside down, where you can get to the hole for the spring and pin. The spring is inserted (upside down of course), and then pinned in place, which is the most fiddly part.

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I need to do this task and it seems to be very difficult as you need three hands. Do you need to prep the end of the hairspring to easily fit into the stud


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Na just a good pair of tweezers and a steady hand.


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1 hour ago, jdrichard said:


Once the spring is in the hole, i need to peg it in. Soooo smalll:)


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if you're using the original pin then yes, it is virtually microscopic. Using a new hairspring pin and then trimming afterwards is the best route

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if you're using the original pin then yes, it is virtually microscopic. Using a new hairspring pin and then trimming afterwards is the best route

Robbed a pin off a russian movement as the original got lost(my issue, stuck to my arm perhaps). Need to hold the stud with a pin vice or another vice and place the spring in place and then try to slide in the brass peg and secure it. Ahhhhh. Need a tool:)


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Just now, jdrichard said:


Robbed a pin off a russian movement as the original got lost(my issue, stuck to my arm perhaps). Need to hold the stud with a pin vice or another vice and place the spring in place and then try to slide in the brass peg and secure it. Ahhhhh. Need a tool:)


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I've often thought of making a hairspring stud table, like Bergeon made. Simply two pieces of flat steel or brass stock, about 1/4" thick, the first piece about 1.5x1.5 inches square, the other 1.5x.25 inches. Line the two pieces up along the long edge, drill and tap for a screw at one end about 1/4" from the end. File a couple V notches of different depths near the opposite end on the narrow piece. where the notches are perpendicular to the flat face. Screw the two pieces together lightly, insert your stud with the hole accessible in one of the V notches, and tighten the screw to hold it in place. Bergeon used a lever to pry the two parts apart, but this method would work to, just not quite as convenient.

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Yep basically the same I described
 

Another tool project. Will also put little legs on it and make it from a 1/2 inch chunk of steel for stability. Then i will re-stud the darn hairspring and reinstall in on the hampden staff i made and them see if the whole thing now ticks:)


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I've often thought of making a hairspring stud table, like Bergeon made. Simply two pieces of flat steel or brass stock, about 1/4" thick, the first piece about 1.5x1.5 inches square, the other 1.5x.25 inches. Line the two pieces up along the long edge, drill and tap for a screw at one end about 1/4" from the end. File a couple V notches of different depths near the opposite end on the narrow piece. where the notches are perpendicular to the flat face. Screw the two pieces together lightly, insert your stud with the hole accessible in one of the V notches, and tighten the screw to hold it in place. Bergeon used a lever to pry the two parts apart, but this method would work to, just not quite as convenient.

Need to draw a picture of this.


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Just now, jdrichard said:


Need to draw a picture of this.


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I'll try to whip something up here in a bit

I may make it more similar to theirs, as 2 screws on the one end would keep the two plates aligned horizontially. Even the little lever wouldn't be that hard, cutting the slot for it would be the challenge.

 

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2 minutes ago, khunter said:

Bergeon (and the people that own them) are VERY proud of their tools, and prices reflect it unfortunately

Question is, is that a founded proudness, or some sort of snobist show-off?

Because, you know, Bergeon doesn't even make tools, they just resell. Leveraging a century-old high-profitability business model which is based on perceived exclusiveness.

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44 minutes ago, jdm said:

Question is, is that a founded proudness, or some sort of snobist show-off?

Because, you know, Bergeon doesn't even make tools, they just resell. Leveraging a century-old high-profitability business model which is based on perceived exclusiveness.

True "value" is almost always perception. It's worth what someone will pay, and in their case, people pay the premium for the name, and I'll admit, the quality is there as well, but is it truly "worth" the asking price? I guess the market decides.....

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