Waltham pocket watch.

[Eckehardt]

I just purchased this Waltham pocket watch ($10)  Would this watch be an early 1900s or late 1800s pocket watch. I am about to service this movement. Could this be an W.M. ellery movement from the late 1800s. Its 15 jewels the serial number is 20358779. 

[Tipsy]

According to pocket watch database its a model 1883.

https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/waltham/20358779

Nice find for $10.

I have something similar, I don't do many pocket watches so this one was fun and different to work on:

[oldhippy]

Estimated Production Year:

1915

[wolfwatchwerks]

Where on earth did you pick that up for 10 bucks?!?!?!?!? Do they have any more? I'll take 2..!! Nice grab..!

[azkid]

Where on earth did you pick that up for 10 bucks?!?!?!?!? Do they have any more? I'll take 2..!! Nice grab..!

No doubt! That is a great find!

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[Eckehardt]

Come to Alberta Canada. Edmonton Old Strathcona. Many old buildings from the 1890s and early 1900s. Lots of old train stations still standing. Most of these relics end up in the old Strathcona Antique mall. Second biggest Antique mall in Western Canada. The CPR rail juction still runs through this area since 1905. The Strathcona hotel built in the late 1880s still stands and is still used to this day. Lots of watches and clocks working or non. Sell for chump change at times.

[khunter]

Pocketwatchdatabase.com 

Great site for most brands of American pocket watches, lots of information including parts lookups, pricing data, and tons of reference material. 

[Eckehardt]

It sure is. My movement is a model 1883. Grade 81 . Roughly 1915. Earlier ones had key wind.https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/waltham/20358779

[MrRoundel]

FWIW, I believe that this is a pretty late serial number for an 18s '83 model. By 1915 most were probably opting for a 16s, or even 14 or 12s over the larger 18s. The nickel silver/silveroid/silverode case is about as sturdy as they get.

While you probably already know this, you must be very careful about separating the plates, as the pallet-fork commonly hangs up, resulting in a broken pivot. There are many 18s, full-plate watches that are in the boneyard because of broken pallets. Good luck with your Waltham. Cheers.

[Eckehardt]

Serviced it. Works good now. Seems like someone dumped a lot of oil in this movement. Re cleaned ( took it apart) properly re lubed it.

Edited February 10, 2018 by Eckehardt

[khunter]

18 hours ago, MrRoundel said:

FWIW, I believe that this is a pretty late serial number for an 18s '83 model. By 1915 most were probably opting for a 16s, or even 14 or 12s over the larger 18s. The nickel silver/silveroid/silverode case is about as sturdy as they get.

While you probably already know this, you must be very careful about separating the plates, as the pallet-fork commonly hangs up, resulting in a broken pivot. There are many 18s, full-plate watches that are in the boneyard because of broken pallets. Good luck with your Waltham. Cheers.

The "trick" to most full plate 18s watches in disassembly and reassembly is to do it upside down. Once you remove the balance and mainspring barrels, remove the plate screws and invert the movement in your holder. Carefully separate the plates, teasing the pivots from the jewels/pivot holes. The pallet actually sits partially inside the lower balance jewel cock. Reassembling is the reverse process. 

[dwhite]

I have to ask, how do you let down a full plate watch?  I see the barrel but how do you get to the click?

[Eckehardt]

If you look around the dial end there is a little slot with the edge of the click sticking out.( movement out of case)  Turn the stem gently until the click moves a bit slide it to the right and while holding the winding stem let it down slowly. Also it's good to remove the dust ring. Don't let it unwind to fast or you could damage the spring or it comes off the arbor.

Edited February 13, 2018 by Eckehardt

[khunter]

10 minutes ago, dwhite said:

I have to ask, how do you let down a full plate watch?  I see the barrel but how do you get to the click?

there is normally a lever or slot near the barrel on the dial side plate that you use to let down the spring. Otherwise you would simply remove the dial first, insert a bench key and put some tension on it, depress the click and slowly let it down. If there is a slot, or sometimes it's just a hole, you insert a needle or the like, put the tension on the winder, and press, then let the spring down. Each manufacturer had their own system, and some had several types depending on the model.

[jdrichard]

The "trick" to most full plate 18s watches in disassembly and reassembly is to do it upside down. Once you remove the balance and mainspring barrels, remove the plate screws and invert the movement in your holder. Carefully separate the plates, teasing the pivots from the jewels/pivot holes. The pallet actually sits partially inside the lower balance jewel cock. Reassembling is the reverse process. 

I use a piece of rodico to stick the pallet fork to the upper plate, then remove it after assembly. I do a lot of pocket watches.

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[Eckehardt]

Has been going good so far now.  Still running very smooth. Taking it apart. I lifted the plates ever so slightly using Rosinol lighter fluid, to clean the pivot holes and a toothpick to clear out the dry varnished oil and kept slightly working it until the top plate came off and lifting it slightly sideways so the pallet fork didn't catch on the bottom balance jewel cock for there is a cutaway so it doesnt catch. Serviced the watch relubed it reassembled and it's been running good for over a few weeks now ( after winding it a few times). It actually keeps decent time. 

[transporter]

W

On 14/02/2018 at 12:36 PM, jdrichard said:

I use a piece of rodico to stick the pallet fork to the upper plate, then remove it after assembly. I do a lot of pocket watches.

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I was going to say that bit of advice aswell mate, I think you told me that trick on my first elgin full plate, I have another that requires a new 4th wheel if I remember correctly.