Jump to content

Chime gears


RockyRR

Recommended Posts

Ok, folks, this is my 1st post and I need some help.  I was given an old mantle clock (an Ingraham according to the winding key) that didn't work.  I now have the clock ticking with its pendulum.  However, when I turn the hands to make the chine hammer strike, it only does it once no matter the time.  Even when I lift the bar (blue arrow in picture) it only moves one "notch" (see red arrow).  I expected it to go from one shallow notch to the next until it got to a deep notch.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Rocky

Presentation1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m going to use the same terms as show in the video so as not to confuse you.

The worn stop lever (blue) needs to sit into the cam wheel slot, the green lever should lift from the counting wheel (make sure the green lever is free to lift out of the counting wheel. Make sure when the blue lever starts to rise so the green lever should also rise. When the count wheel moves from tooth to tooth the blue lever must be high enough to keep turning, only when the green lever falls in to the longer slots of the count wheel should the blue lever drop into the slot of the cam wheel. On the warning, the yellow worn pin should be at about 45 to 50 on a dial face. It should be at that position before the warning starts, make sure the hammer does not start to lift at that moment. This other photo,  I have marked in red this wheel has a pin that that engages in the teeth of the count wheel which moves the count wheel forward.      

I hope I have not confused you. Keep me up to date. I am here to help. The strike on American clocks is not easy to understand, with it having so many levers.

414_A_8_day_Ogee_After.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • These are all American movements (with the exception of the "Rubis"), and are all almost certainly "negative set" which means the stem is part of the case. So it's normal that they are all missing- they are with their cases. You will need male square bench keys to wind/disarm them. Vintagewatchstraps has a great writeup on the different systems. But basically, any American "x" size movement will fit any case for that size, possibly with some adjusting of the stem position. With Swiss movements, there is some interchangeability between calibers, usually within the same maker's range, but not really overall- there are thousands of different stems out there.
    • Hi, I'm very new to watchmaking and this is my first time posting here.  I've bought a lot of 10 vintage pocket watches size 0s from e-bay and just got them today.  Most of the balance wheels sprung quite freely and thus seemed like a worthy endeavor as a first batch for exploration.  I've just realized that none of them have any winding stems. Is there any way I could source appropriate winding stems for the movements? There seems to be assortments of various stems selling in bulk on aliexpress, but would any of them fit?  I've read on other threads that some people lathe their own stems (which is waaaay out of my current skill set, which is pretty much nil). Others say that you 'just have to try a few and see if they fit'. I would much appreciate any advice for this matter. Thanks!
    • Nice work.  In the last year, I have been servicing Accutron 218s.  I have the official Accutron hoder that provides electrical contact to the movement.  It is a pretty clever design.  There is a cut in the ring of the holder (shaped like a "C").  When in relaxed state, the holder is slightly smaller than the watch movement.  You spread the cut slightly and drop the movement in and release.  Very clean.  I have made 3D versions of this setup.  Have not explored using it generally for other movements.
    • Double Oooooo   Removal tool? Dreamed of one of these. However, Kalle on Chronoglide showed everyone my system with the pegwood. Worked a treat. Felt so chuffed to be mentioned. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTFrXjiyGKc 46:40 for the wheel removal. Mentions me at 50:00 and does the removal with the pegwood. Felt like my 15 minutes of fame.  
    • Sirius. Thank you for helping others with that information. This is why this forum is so good.
×
×
  • Create New...