Jump to content

How do you get this watch out of its case


Recommended Posts

I have this little ladies blancpain that is running really fast and I have know idea how to remove it from its case, there is no back it clearly lifts out from the front but the stem does not appear to be the type that snaps apart as you can see the setting lever holding it in position, I tried removing the dial but no  luck there either and there is no where you can hold the stem to unscrew the crown. Any ideas or am I missing something really obvious.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, quantieme said:

I have this little ladies blancpain that is running really fast and I have know idea how to remove it from its case, there is no back it clearly lifts out from the front but the stem does not appear to be the type that snaps apart as you can see the setting lever holding it in position, I tried removing the dial but no  luck there either and there is no where you can hold the stem to unscrew the crown. Any ideas or am I missing something really obvious.

Forgot the pics

A8E1D408-4B71-4A3D-AA1A-4A21C65BD8AF.jpeg

65EFFE10-7FAE-47AE-BAD3-7BE676B1DA7B.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, quantieme said:

... but the stem does not appear to be the type that snaps apart as you can see the setting lever holding it in position, ...

Watches with 2-piece stems also have set-levers holding in the part that goes into the movt. The joint is above the set-lever.

Getting the dial off may not help as it looks like the set lever still needs to be unscrewed from the other side.

My guess it there is a removable back but the joint is invisible. Blancpain is a high end manufacturer so they would take pains to get this done right. Take a good look thru a high power loupe, especially the angle where the flat sides start to chamfer in.. Otherwise it may be a 2-piece stem, not really common on ladies movement though.

Try to hold the watch face down over a soft surface and rotate the stem (stem pulled out to the setting position) does the watch try to come out? ie the side away from stem falls away from the case? Try rotating the stem .. sometimes they just fall apart at the right angle. I remember a Ladies Cartier where this was the case.

Good luck

Anilv

 

 

 

Edited by anilv
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Listen to JDM. it's staring you right in the face. for extra clarification, I've circled where you need to focus your attention. :D
At least I think that's right anyway, it looks as if it might be on a setting lever screw, which would mean it wouldn't lift up, but I can think of no other way this would be de-cased if it been designed to fully expose the setting lever with the front of the case removed. 

blancpain highlight.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How tightly attached is the button to stem I have in the past had to unscrew the crown from the stem to extract movements from ladies watches, some times by doing this it allows just enough clearance for the movement to come out at a angle. I have a pair of tweezers with a right angle end that has allowed me to grip the stem and unscrew the crown.

Although it would be nice to remove the movement have you tried the obvious and  demagnetised the watch to see if this brings the rate down?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, jdm said:

Not needed here as the stem release is accessible.

That's based on the assumption there is enough play in the setting lever to be able to lift it and free the stem, all options can be explored until one is proven correct.

Edited by wls1971
Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, wls1971 said:

How tightly attached is the button to stem I have in the past had to unscrew the crown from the stem to extract movements from ladies watches, some times by doing this it allows just enough clearance for the movement to come out at a angle. I have a pair of tweezers with a right angle end that has allowed me to grip the stem and unscrew the crown.

Although it would be nice to remove the movement have you tried the obvious and  demagnetised the watch to see if this brings the rate down?

Yes  this has just occurred to me and I have tried it so will give it half an hour and see what happens as it was gaining 6 mins in 30 mins.

i will also try and lift the lever even though it looks like it is screwed on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tried lifting lever but no movement on it at all, Watch still gaining 10 mins in an hour despite demagnetising it and I have looked at the Case thoroughly under a 20x loupe and definitely no join for case back although I can see someone has tried to prise it between the lugs obviously assuming there was a join. I will try later and put some pressure on the stem incase it is a snap fit.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, anilv said:

Watches with 2-piece stems also have set-levers holding in the part that goes into the movt. The joint is above the set-lever.

Getting the dial off may not help as it looks like the set lever still needs to be unscrewed from the other side.

My guess it there is a removable back but the joint is invisible. Blancpain is a high end manufacturer so they would take pains to get this done right. Take a good look thru a high power loupe, especially the angle where the flat sides start to chamfer in.. Otherwise it may be a 2-piece stem, not really common on ladies movement though.

Try to hold the watch face down over a soft surface and rotate the stem (stem pulled out to the setting position) does the watch try to come out? ie the side away from stem falls away from the case? Try rotating the stem .. sometimes they just fall apart at the right angle. I remember a Ladies Cartier where this was the case.

Good luck

Anilv

 

 

 

Yes it does try and fall out but is stopped by the stem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The set lever would certainly be easy to lift if it was the sprung type, but it could potentially be impossible if it’s screwed down from the other side. 

I’m interested to know what those two large screws are for outside the dial. May just be for the set lever spring, but seems quite far away and quite large. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a thought and I may be wrong, but if it is a threaded setting lever, could you not grip the threaded post with a pin vice and turn it from the bottom of the keyless to rise the setting lever, much as if you were turning the screw on the top of the movement? I somehow doubt thats proper procedure, but I don't see any actual problem, shouldn't need to grip it hard enough to damage the thread. (again, if there is one)

Any chance of a closer image of the setting lever? you can place an eyeglass over your phone's camera to good effect, usually. 

Edited by Ishima
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, rodabod said:

The set lever would certainly be easy to lift if it was the sprung type, but it could potentially be impossible if it’s screwed down from the other side. 

I’m interested to know what those two large screws are for outside the dial. May just be for the set lever spring, but seems quite far away and quite large. 

You are right, and I apologize for saying decisively that one can lift this setting lever. To avoid further confusion I've removed my own postings.

I think it's a Peseux 60 or similar, I should have checked first. 

 Peseux_60-1.jpg.0bb428fafab7bac9cef9f8bf1eb3cd2a.jpg

Compare to setting lever detail

detail.jpg.ed7216da3ea4912ec24497e9fd25878e.jpg

So, either it has a two pieces stem, or one has to grab the stem possibly after turning the two dial eccentrics and removing the dial, and undo the the crown. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, rodabod said:

The set lever would certainly be easy to lift if it was the sprung type, but it could potentially be impossible if it’s screwed down from the other side. 

I’m interested to know what those two large screws are for outside the dial. May just be for the set lever spring, but seems quite far away and quite large. 

Yes it is set lever spring

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Ishima said:

Just a thought and I may be wrong, but if it is a threaded setting lever, could you not grip the threaded post with a pin vice and turn it from the bottom of the keyless to rise the setting lever, much as if you were turning the screw on the top of the movement? I somehow doubt thats proper procedure, but I don't see any actual problem, shouldn't need to grip it hard enough to damage the thread. (again, if there is one)

Any chance of a closer image of the setting lever? you can place an eyeglass over your phone's camera to good effect, usually. 

I had thought of the turning the screw from above option but had not figured out the best way to grip it, I didn’t think of the pin vice that’s a good idea. Another good idea the loupe over the camera lens would never of thought of that, have enclosed another pic using above method.

C435DAB7-C44B-4535-ABDC-DF3FA5A7130E.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I doubt you could grip that easily and it may crush the threads. I would maybe try covering the hands and dial, and use a slotting file to cut a slot in the end of the setting lever screw. Then just screw (clockwise!) with a screwdriver. 

Stil begs the question of “how did they assemble this?” though. There could still be a split stem where the split is hidden. If you pull it very hard and it isn’t a split, then what’s the worst that could happen? Snapped stem, snapped crown, broken keyless works components?.... might be worth seeing how much spare parts cost in case they are very cheap. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, rodabod said:

I doubt you could grip that easily and it may crush the threads. I would maybe try covering the hands and dial, and use a slotting file to cut a slot in the end of the setting lever screw. Then just screw (clockwise!) with a screwdriver. 

Stil begs the question of “how did they assemble this?” though. There could still be a split stem where the split is hidden. If you pull it very hard and it isn’t a split, then what’s the worst that could happen? Snapped stem, snapped crown, broken keyless works components?.... might be worth seeing how much spare parts cost in case they are very cheap. 

I’ve tried the pin  vice it just slipped off,  I will now try the file and slot method thanks. I’ve also tried a fair bit of pressure on the crown and if it was snap fit it would have moved. If this doesn’t work I think I will try and drill through the setting lever hole to remove the screw and source a new lever. I am still intrigued as to how they Cased this watch, logic says that the crown should come off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, quantieme said:

It looks like a spring on top of a lever?

I think these are the dial retainers and you're seeing the end of the joke below. Half a turn them both and see if the dial comes out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks Dell. I thought about silver soldering. Have never done it but would like to give it a go. Do you think to put flux on the butted joint then run the solder in or to maybe brace it with a piece of scrap spring steel?
    • Never and others. Yes, like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. Clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
    • Hi all, total newbie to watchmaking and I've had a bit of a mishap. Just completing level 2 and was doing ok, but I was just on the last part of the reassembly of my ST3620 when the balance end stone shot across the room, just as I was trying to see if I had put the correct amount of oil between it and the balance end, aarrrgh! Been on my hands and knees combing the carpet for 20mins looking for it but to no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement from and what to look for please?? Thanks.
    • Get someone local to tig it ,very easy fix and should only take a few minutes so probably wouldn’t cost much ,or failing that get it very clean and silver solder it. Dell
    • Hi, The winding pin is not split, well that's how it was when I obtained the watch. The movement is front-loaded and here's a picture of where the case screws are fitted. The face picture is before I dismantled it. Quick update.  I've always had a nylon ring sitting in the parts try that I wasn't sure where it went and left it to the last thing as I know it must be part of the case assembly. Anyway, looking at the picture in my last post you can see, just under the winding stem, a white-looking object, this is the nylon ring 🤭 So, I had to remove the dial again and replace the ring. Once this was all back together I placed the movement in the case and realized my initial problem maybe is not a problem as it looks like I can screw the movement back in the case and then place the hands as the dial is nearly flush with the outside of the case anyway so I'll be able to check for alignment. if all is good then just fit the crystal and bezel 🤔 I can't think of any issues with this approach but please comment if you think I've not thought of something. Another lesson learned as well. Take more pictures not just of the movement parts and location 😅
×
×
  • Create New...