Jump to content

Automatic Movement Rotor Repair Fell Off!


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Dropped my watch and the rotor fell of the movement.  I tried pushing it back on and it keeps falling off.  Obviously I should not glue it, but does anyone know how to fix this?  Or am I better off just taking it out completely and only using the winder?  I would prefer automatic without winding. 

Thanks!

image1 (4).png

image2 (3).png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe this type of rotor is friction fit into the ball bearings component that is still on the movement.

When you say that you pushed it back did you succeed or would it just not fit ? Normally you would have to use special tools to re-attach the rotor. Some sort of a press thing that presses the rotor back into the ball bearing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried pushing it on by hand and it fit.  But a few min later after I put the case back on, the rotor fell off again.  So I guess the issue is that it no longer is fitting tightly and just keeps falling off.  Is the ball bearing adjustable i.e. via the screw?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rotor is friction fitted onto the bearing. Be careful when pushing on the rotor while still attached to the watch. You should remove the bearing by undoing the centre screw and re fit the rotor using a staking tool. If the rotor it still loose then perhaps loctite might secure it but I must say this is an unusual fault. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The screw is there to take off the rotor completely (rotor attached to the ball bearing that is).

It is possible that the rotor's hole may have loosened up a bit. I'm not sure what the experts suggest here but you could try super glue and it should fix the issue but you'd have to remove the ball bearing as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This looks like an ETA 2824-2 movement if I am not mistaken, as confirmed above the bearing is a friction fit in the oscillating weight.

Mark has a video about bearing replacement for this movement, see https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FL-MC4TKp84&ebc=ANyPxKoYSvYWIWx-fAQjyYh0GtXISkSZ0cxFwGTpDQeIfqNW4KxX3xjYHDCTfEa28dXqSNcqvfXOX-H9wyIDcUjvtuEwE5r6lQ

 

if the hole is too large to allow good friction you always have the option to purchase a new oscillating weight + bearing assembly, swiss part number 1143, available from CousinsUK and I am sure other places.

Edited by oli
Spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can someone please link me some options?  I am seeing many are marked with brand names on them or different jewel amounts so I want to be sure I get a compatible one.  Or would any generic (regardless of markings on it) 1143/1 oscillating weight and rotor be fine?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, radbrad777 said:

Can someone please link me some options?  I am seeing many are marked with brand names on them or different jewel amounts so I want to be sure I get a compatible one.  Or would any generic (regardless of markings on it) 1143/1 oscillating weight and rotor be fine?

Before you rush to buy anything.At this point you don't know if the problems is with the rotor, the bearing, or both that have been machines so slightly off specification. So you might end with a rotor that won't hold either. I suggest that you try first to repair what you have. A possible way could be placing the center of the rotor, say 0.10mm around the hole with steel dies under a press, so to deform it very slighty and allow to friction fit again. any decent machine shop should be able to do this for you 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it fits without any play, then JDM suggestion has merits.

I recommend some Loctite 660 but if you're only going to use it for this part then a replacement rotor off ebay would be cheaper.

Good luck.

Anilv

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it were mine I would try to replace it with an authentic part rather than one that is just "compatible" I would resort to using some sort of adhesive only as a last and temporary option. Removing the bearing and trying to properly press it back into the rotor would be my first step, a staking set properly used could tighten the hole enough for a good fit. Just my opinion. ....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I must admit it is a mystery why it has came loose. The friction fit is a tight friction fit so for it to be loose it must have been forced off at some point. I would check the bearing and also check the rotor because it has to be balanced ie not settle in the same position.  If loctite does not work I would just purchase a new rotor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, khunter said:

Removing the bearing and trying to properly press it back into the rotor would be my first step, a staking set properly used could tighten the hole enough for a good fit.

The alloy used in these parts can be surprising hard. I have no direct experience, but possibly an hand hammered stacking set won't do anything to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, jdm said:

The alloy used in these parts can be surprising hard. I have no direct experience, but possibly an hand hammered stacking set won't do anything to it.

Agreed, however it's almost always my inclination to try to repair something using the least intrusive method possible first. I would think that the rotor is some kind of brass/bronze, possibly plated but nonetheless fairly malleable.. I know from the one Rolex automatic I have repaired that the rotor there was a nickel plated brass piece. Replacement with an authentic part would be ideal, even if it's from a scrap unit, but glue would be my last choice. Just my 2 cents... :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, khunter said:

Agreed, however it's almost always my inclination to try to repair something using the least intrusive method possible first. I would think that the rotor is some kind of brass/bronze, possibly plated but nonetheless fairly malleable.. I know from the one Rolex automatic I have repaired that the rotor there was a nickel plated brass piece. Replacement with an authentic part would be ideal, even if it's from a scrap unit, but glue would be my last choice. 

Totally agree, but as I said already the problem could be in the bearing, as the rotor appears to be perfect in picture. Blindly get another then it if doesn't work is time and money spent, frustration gained. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all -

Thanks for the informative answers.  I think I will start by using a little Loctite 222 and see if that helps with the issue.  I will unscrew and take out the bearing, use a toothpick for a very light layer of the Loctite on the inside of the rotor, and press the rotor back in (and let dry).  Hopefully this works.  Does this sound like a good plan?

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yeah ive watched that a few times before,  i couldnt find my old school dividers to scribe it up 😅 Yep thats the guy i bought a roll from .
    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift. Speaking of watchfix.com I've been postponing the "Level 5: Servicing Chronograph Watches" course for a very, very long time. Anyway, I just enrolled on it so it's going to be very interesting to see the videos. I must say, IMO there's nothing really that can compete with Mark's courses when it comes to presentation and video quality. It's simply world-class and makes me associate with some really expensive BBC productions.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
    • @JohnR725 now that you've mentioned it. This is actually the second aftermarket spring (same place and brand) I ordered as the first one broke. The eye on which the arbor pulls on, broke off on the first spring after the first wind, and also it was a bit to large for the arbor. Looked like on one the second picture in the 2nd group. The second one was exactly the same, I had to bend it a bit, to give it a more prominent curve to the end of the spring so that the arbor catches the eye.  Also I believe both were 5-10mm shorter. Not that I writing that, I feel a bit dumb, as the spring might actually been the problem all along, although its advertised as a substitute to the original...     
    • The CS70 is the only one they show as annealed.  A further search on ebay, I found CS75 and CS100 annealed carbon steel strips  e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314072784422
×
×
  • Create New...