Jump to content

Principle of the Bergeon 1A (cap jewel) automatic oiler

Jimbo

By Jimbo
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jimbo Member

Jimbo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Kids, 

So I'm still wondering how, when you oil the cap jewel when installed in the hole-jewel setting, you don't end up losing a bunch of oil on the inside (i.e. balance side) of the hole jewel, given that the viscosity of the oil makes the drop wider than the hole jewel opening. Does this happen to you?

Do you just insert it and push, or do you prime it first with a retraction, or what? Or retract first, insert it retracted, and then release? But doesn't that create the same problem as the end pin carries the oil through the hole? I can't see that the sheath fits through the hole of the jewel.

Thanks, 

Jim

Edited by Jimbo
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tiktok WRT Addict

Tiktok

Posted
Posted

Make sure oiler is clean, I always dip it in rodico first to get rid of any excess oil already on the end and then just put the end of oiler in the hole keeping oiler straight(90 degrees) and flick the button, job done, pull the oiler straight out. Hold the setting, bridge or cock with tweezers or peg wood to stop it moving as you pull the oiler straight out, this stops the oil from going on the outside of the hole.

With most shock settings it's easier to do it with the cap jewel and shell out of the setting which would be out anyway for the cleaner.

For Rolex escape wheel endstones it's done whilst endstones are in the watch(take them out for the cleaning machine though), this is because there's no outer shell that comes out with the endstone. The same goes for older Watch's with a balance endstones that doesn't come out. I would always remove the balance from the cock if there's no room to get underneath without touching the hairspring with the oiler though.

These oilers take a bit of getting used to but once set up properly you should be able to get the perfect round bubble to cover 2/3rds of the surface area of the jewel which is about perfect. The faster you pull the button the less oil comes out, for a small jewel flick it quickly, for a larger one do it a bit slower or flick it twice.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tiktok WRT Addict

Tiktok

Posted
Posted

You will always get a little bit of oil around the entrance to the hole but oil will end up there anyway once the balance pivots are sat in place, the oil will be sucked out slightly which is what is supposed to happen, that's why the bubble sometimes shrinks a bit when it's been running a while because it's run down/up the pivot.

 

IMG_0951.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • VWatchie
      What are these Seitz B-Jewels?

      By VWatchie · Posted

      That's very interesting information. I haven't tried to see if my bombé jewel holes have olive holes but I think I should be able to tell on the larger jewels at least. See if I get a chance to have a look later today. This little story was very comforting to read for a "bungler" like myself. That success isn't a given even for a pro. Thanks for sharing!
    • Michael1962
      I'm going to be setting up a decent little workshop here at home.

      By Michael1962 · Posted

      I forgot that I said I would do that. Will take some tomorrow and post them up post haste.
    • nickelsilver
      What are these Seitz B-Jewels?

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      I've seen some really nice early 20th century pieces where all the jewels, including center wheel, were convex. Definitely to reduce friction. It can be quite hard to tell if a jewel has olive holes, especially on small sizes, but that again reduces friction- as well as accommodates small misalignments better. Why they aren't used more often? I imagine it was found that at a certain point in the train the actual advantage became negligible, and the added cost on high production movements is why it's not seen on those, just higher-end pieces.   I did an experiment on a little 5x7"' AS 1012 a few years back. These things run OK sometimes, but often are absolute dogs. And AS made gajillions of them. I had a NOS novelty watch in for a service, ran OK flat, massive drop in amplitude vertical. Made like 3 staffs for it trying different pivot sizes, no change. Tried high quality (not Seitz) convex/olive jewels, no change- the original were flat, but could have been olive hole. Same for the pallet fork, then escape wheel, no change. Probably had 20 hours in the watch, new staff and new hole jewels through the escape wheel, no difference in running. Just a dog of a movement. But if I were making a watch I would use them, just because.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      What are these Seitz B-Jewels?

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      When Nicklesilver mentioned the use of them on non coned pivots on older high end watches closer to the escapement.  That suggested to me  probably fourth wheels and possibly third wheels. The square shoulder rotatating on the much smaller surface area of a dome as opposed to a flat jewel surface. I'm curious as to why they are not used predominantly?
    • VWatchie
      What are these Seitz B-Jewels?

      By VWatchie · Posted

      That's what I thought, but as I said, it makes sense. See if any of our pros will have something to add.
×
×
  • Create New...