Jump to content

Need help with mainspring selection


Recommended Posts

Hi all

I am working on cleaning an inexpensive pocket watch with what I think is some generic name: Anti-Magnetique. I have heard of Anti-Magnetique as a concept but not as a brand. 

I can't determine what movement is in the case as there is no marking to indicate the movement name.

Anyway, I removed the mainspring from the barrel and tried to measure it as best I can and I have also used the formula bYNnWwr.jpg to check the length of the mainspring. Using the formula I get a spring length of 566mm (so I can say 56cm) but when I stretch out the mainspring and allow for the end turn I get 54cm total length. Which method should I defer to - I guess it is possible that a shorter spring was put in last time. 

Can I get your thoughts on how to progress. I am just uncertain how critical this extra cm or two will be in the scheme of the age of the watch and the fact that it's just a project. 

Appreciate any assistance and thank you in advance. 

jmTV3yF.jpg

UCqFEg3.jpg

yOX6jCq.jpg 

ra6ked5.jpg

Edited by Blubarb
spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The more important measurements in determining mainspring size are the height and strength of the spring the loss in length of 26 mm would make hardly any difference in the running of the watch other than it would run for a shorter period of time so if the power reserve was 30 hours the difference in length may mean it runs for 28.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, that makes complete sense. I have come across some interesting reading online and even found a reverse engineering calculator that helps in selecting a mainspring based in the inner diameter of the barrel. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As already said the strength (thickness) is the most important and the height, the length just needs to be as near as what ever is available.

The other thing that can sometimes be a pain to match up by ordering by size rather than calibre is the centre that goes around the arbor, sometimes if the arbor is too small it doesn't hook properly.

Sometimes with older stuff you just have to make do with what you can get and make it fit. 

I would be more concerned about the condition of the escape wheel, hopefully it is just dirt and will clean up.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Tiktok said:

As already said the strength (thickness) is the most important and the height, the length just needs to be as near as what ever is available.

The other thing that can sometimes be a pain to match up by ordering by size rather than calibre is the centre that goes around the arbor, sometimes if the arbor is too small it doesn't hook properly.

Sometimes with older stuff you just have to make do with what you can get and make it fit. 

I would be more concerned about the condition of the escape wheel, hopefully it is just dirt and will clean up.

Yes, that escape wheel is caked ugly with muck, but is beginning to clean up okay. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Ok thanks Ross, I will give that a try!😁
    • Welcome my friend. 
    • Been there. Worn that Tshirt.  'ping'. Hands and knees. Nothing. Nada. 20 minutes? Ha! I found it 7 month later. How? Well, after advice from a member, I invested in a £4 UV light torch.  Hands and knees looking for a 'ping' from a Sekonda, found them both within 30 seconds. UV makes the jewel shine. easy peasy. Could have taken longer. Just lucky on the location of the search. Hope this helps.
    • Thanks Dell. I thought about silver soldering. Have never done it but would like to give it a go. Do you think to put flux on the butted joint then run the solder in or to maybe brace it with a piece of scrap spring steel?
    • Never and others. Yes, like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. Clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
×
×
  • Create New...